Shacky Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 Not all the wire colors are stock - obviously the clear wires off the caps are not. And I'm not sure the grean wire from terminal 1 (top of photo) to #1 on pot should be green.These were not stock when I received them. They had a 20 OHM pot in place which I didn't know how would interact with crossover. So I put some nice clean originals in from my 3a project. Caps looked hermetically sealed and PO measure for capacitance and ESR and said they looked good. He's a great tube tech so I think he knows what he's doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shacky Posted January 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 Well I found a picture of stock wiring on Audio Karma. And it looks like that yellow wire to tweeter should be on #2 and grean wire to tweeter should be on base. But now I'm a little confused as to which goes to the positive (marked with yellow dot) tweeter terminal. Guess worse that can happen is I change phase of tweeters and as long as I keep it consistent within the pair would that be OK?Help. I'm obviously challenged reading the shcematic in the library. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shacky Posted January 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 Well looks like that picture I referenced on AK was of an early model 4X. So now I likely have my tweeters hooked up out of phase. If they are both out of phase will it make that much difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shacky Posted January 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 This was bugging me. The more I looked at it the more I felt I put the tweeter in wrong phase - I really can't tell whether they are designed in phase or out but could figure I wired them the opposite. So before finshing the second I played the first in mono. No bad sounding. But still I wanted these correct - assuming they aren't. So I popped off the woofer and switched it back to yellow wire to base on pot and positive lead on tweeter - it also has a yellow dot. hooked it up for a quick listen to see if it sounded different - and yes it does. Maybe a placebo but certainly sounds better to my ears. So this is how I'll roll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyC Posted January 17, 2010 Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 So I popped off the woofer and switched it back to yellow wire to base on pot and positive lead on tweeter - it also has a yellow dot. hooked it up for a quick listen to see if it sounded different - and yes it does. Maybe a placebo but certainly sounds better to my ears. So this is how I'll roll Shacky,I believe you have it wired correctly. I remember discussing the Library 4x schematic with John O'Hanlon when he posted it. The yellow dot is the + side of the tweeter, so the polarity is reversed relative to the woofer. The color of the 4x wiring varied along the way. For example, many 4x crossovers have no blue wiring at all, as shown in the Library schematic, instead having different shades of green. The most important thing to remember is that the tweeter polarity is reversed to that of the woofer, regardless of the wire colors.Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shacky Posted January 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 Thanks Roy. In the picture above the positive post is the screw with the red woofer wire attached. The clear wire from same goes to the caps then to #2 pot terminal. Green wire to tweeter goes to that same terminal on pot so that makes the green wire positive right? And yellow wire to base on pot is negative and goes to positive side of tweeter.If that's all correct it's probably very lucky that I felt it sounded better that way. Having tweeter in phase probably makes it louder and might siound "better" at first listen. Then again I do not like bright speakers - hence my love of vintage AR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted January 17, 2010 Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 Shacky,Here are two pics courtesy of John O'Hanlon. One is the revised schematic and the other is a photo of my 4x xo that John labeled. "Zen" is the brand cap I used--just insert yours here (and disregard the "white" and "gray" labels on the cap leads).So... when comparing yours to mine I would say they are wired the same and presumably correctly.Good luck.Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shacky Posted January 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 Shacky,Here are two pics courtesy of John O'Hanlon. One is the revised schematic and the other is a photo of my 4x xo that John labeled. "Zen" is the brand cap I used--just insert yours here (and disregard the "white" and "gray" labels on the cap leads).So... when comparing yours to mine I would say they are wired the same and presumably correctly.Good luck.KentThanks Kent! Looks like I am correct now. There is a thread on AK about recapping 4X and it showed the green wire to base on pot. I hadn't noticed it was an early version with couple of unique characteristics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shacky Posted January 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 BTW I took the old block caps out figuring the 4X can use every bit of internal cab space it can get.And here they are in audition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyC Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 Very nice, Shacky...Your wiring is correct. The yellow wire is negative and connects to the + (yellow dot) side of the tweeter.John's 4x schematic posted above by Kent is the same one posted in the CSP Library. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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