Guest Martin G. Posted September 22, 2009 Report Share Posted September 22, 2009 I just acquired a set of AR3a speakers with immaculate cabinets and newly refoamed woofers. Having obviously been cared for I couldn't wait to get them home and take a listen - Not to be. At first, one tweeter did play and the other didn't. I messed with the pots at low to moderate listening levels. Then the second tweeter died, or at least it quit playing too. I am hoping that the situation will be remedied with some new pots and some TLC. If my tweeters are dead, what are the odds of finding original replacements? I do not want to go with aftermarket drop ins under any circumstances.Marty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zilch Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 I just acquired a set of AR3a speakers with immaculate cabinets and newly refoamed woofers. Having obviously been cared for I couldn't wait to get them home and take a listen - Not to be. At first, one tweeter did play and the other didn't. I messed with the pots at low to moderate listening levels. Then the second tweeter died, or at least it quit playing too. I am hoping that the situation will be remedied with some new pots and some TLC. If my tweeters are dead, what are the odds of finding original replacements? I do not want to go with aftermarket drop ins under any circumstances.Hope it's the pots.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tysontom Posted September 24, 2009 Report Share Posted September 24, 2009 I just acquired a set of AR3a speakers with immaculate cabinets and newly refoamed woofers. Having obviously been cared for I couldn't wait to get them home and take a listen - Not to be. At first, one tweeter did play and the other didn't. I messed with the pots at low to moderate listening levels. Then the second tweeter died, or at least it quit playing too. I am hoping that the situation will be remedied with some new pots and some TLC. If my tweeters are dead, what are the odds of finding original replacements? I do not want to go with aftermarket drop ins under any circumstances.MartyMarty, it is very likely that the level controls are causing the lost output from the tweeters. This is, by far, the most common issue with older "classic" AR loudspeakers. Sometimes you can rotate the controls back and forth vigorously while holding your ear pressed to the grill cloth in the area of the tweeter (or even midrange). Your fingers will get tired long before you have "burnished" off enough oxidation to bring the tweeter back alive, but you will be surprised if you work at it. Sometimes I have gone through that routine, given up, and returned the next day and the tweeter is suddenly back in operation. As a last resort, you will have to remove the level controls and use a Dremel wire-brush tool to clean and burnish the contacts. Refer to the AR-3a restoration manual on this subject. You can also quickly test the tweeter for continuity by scraping off the black paint on the three terminals of the tweeter-terminal strip on the front of the speaker (if it is the front-wired version), and you can touch a flashlight battery (with wires attached) to the center and outer terminals to test for a "crackling" sound from both the midrange and the tweeter.--Tom Tyson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin G. Posted September 24, 2009 Report Share Posted September 24, 2009 Hope it's the pots....Hi Zilch, good to see you, and I hope it's the pots too...Marty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin G. Posted September 24, 2009 Report Share Posted September 24, 2009 Marty, it is very likely that the level controls are causing the lost output from the tweeters. This is, by far, the most common issue with older "classic" AR loudspeakers. Sometimes you can rotate the controls back and forth vigorously while holding your ear pressed to the grill cloth in the area of the tweeter (or even midrange). Your fingers will get tired long before you have "burnished" off enough oxidation to bring the tweeter back alive, but you will be surprised if you work at it. Sometimes I have gone through that routine, given up, and returned the next day and the tweeter is suddenly back in operation. As a last resort, you will have to remove the level controls and use a Dremel wire-brush tool to clean and burnish the contacts. Refer to the AR-3a restoration manual on this subject. You can also quickly test the tweeter for continuity by scraping off the black paint on the three terminals of the tweeter-terminal strip on the front of the speaker (if it is the front-wired version), and you can touch a flashlight battery (with wires attached) to the center and outer terminals to test for a "crackling" sound from both the midrange and the tweeter.--Tom TysonHi Tom. I've read the 3a restoration "manual" and find it extremely helpful. I tried moving the pots back and forth for a while with no success. Other pots that I've done that to in the past have shown some resistance to movement with a slight rotary noise. These pots seem to have no resistance and no noise... I have the manual, I've gotten some good advice from yourself and Zilch and I'm going to take my time resurrecting these speakers... it should be fun.Marty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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