Guest lmrosenthal Posted October 1, 2002 Report Share Posted October 1, 2002 Hello to all,I am updating the crossovers in my pair of 3a's that I've had new since 1970. The caps have failed and the pots are going. I purchased the crossover kit from Layne Audio and have a question for you:I've removed the woofer, and placed the fiberglass stuffing in paper bags for later re-installation. Also, the crepe paper beneath the woofer was in good shape as well. Because of the size of my hands/arms and lack of great manipulative skills, I'm not able to replace the caps/pots etc within the cabinet. So, I'm trying to figure out how to remove the crossover board (masonite) from within the cabinet. I removed all the staples, but of course the board is also glued to the cabinet - all the way around the board. I've tried to gently chisel and very gently pry the board away, but I can't get a tool with a thin enough blade underneath the board to work it away from the cabinet. I tried to re-heat the glue with the tip of a glue gun - no go. Also tried to use a hair dryer - also no go. The board will chip and crumble if I apply too much pressure on it. So...........I'm thinking about removing all components from the existing board, leaving it in place. Home Depot can cut me two boards of masonite (one for each speaker) to the same dimensions. I can drill holes for the T, 1, and 2 connectors as well as the pot shafts thru the new board to match up with the old board. My thought is that I would mount the components to the new board, then use a glue gun a spot glue it to the old board making sure the holes in the new board line up with the original holes.What do you think of this? Anybody have any better way of handling this problem?Really appreciate any help or insight you can share with me.Larry Rosenthal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nigel Posted October 1, 2002 Report Share Posted October 1, 2002 Larry;I want to make sure that I understand properly. You are getting new masonite pieces from Home Depot, then you are going to remove all the components from the existing boards, then tack glue (low temp hot melt) the new boards in place so that you can drill the holes from the back to line up the pots, 1,2 & T terminals. Next you remove the tacked in boards, populate them, and re-install. It should work if the pots and terminals are long enough to go through both boards. At this point there is another option; hammer the old boards out from the back side, and clean up the inside of the speaker with a SHARP chisel. (Sharp so that you can properly control it, and remove only what you want to).Make sure that you use a good adhesive for the final attachment, and spread it well - you do not want your new boards to rattle. I would use something like Liquid Nails, and spread it out evenly. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lmrosenthal Posted October 1, 2002 Report Share Posted October 1, 2002 Hi Nigel,Thanks for your reply.>I want to make sure that I understand properly. You are >getting new masonite pieces from Home Depot, then you are >going to remove all the components from the existing boards, >then tack glue (low temp hot melt) the new boards in place >so that you can drill the holes from the back to line up the >pots, 1,2 & T terminals. Next you remove the tacked in >boards, populate them, and re-install. Yes, you understand perfectly.>It should work if the pots and terminals are long enough to >go through both boards. The original board and my replacement board are both 1/8" thick. I think the original posts will work, and the length of the shafts of the new pots will be fine.>At this point there is another option; hammer the old boards >out from the back side, and clean up the inside of the >speaker with a SHARP chisel. (Sharp so that you can >properly control it, and remove only what you want to). I thought about that, but I was trying to retain the original look of the speaker connecting area - you know, where it's painted black inside the circular opening and the white lettering for the terminals and the hi and mid pots are printed. Since it appears that this is actually the 'backside' of the masonite board, it would seem that I would probably do damage to this area if I hammered the old boards out from the back side.>Make sure that you use a good adhesive for the final >attachment, and spread it well - you do not want your new >boards to rattle. I would use something like Liquid Nails, >and spread it out evenly. Good idea about the adhesive.Appreciate your help and response, Nigel.What a great board!Larry Rosenthal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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