Guest Chris Posted August 19, 2008 Report Share Posted August 19, 2008 I am in the process of rebuilding a neglected pair of AR-2ax speakers and plan on replacing the stock rheostats with a pair of Ohmite RHS15R. I have been looking through the archives for examples of what kind of cover to build and it seems like the attached images for these messages are missing. I plan on gluing a 0.75"x2"x1.5" block of oak above the rheostats and building a three sided box out of 1/8" balsa wood that would attach with screws to this glued block. This method would allow the box to be removed when the next repair occurs, while the the open side of the box would provide an exit for the wires. Any suggestions or comments on my madness?Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onplane Posted August 19, 2008 Report Share Posted August 19, 2008 I am in the process of rebuilding a neglected pair of AR-2ax speakers and plan on replacing the stock rheostats with a pair of Ohmite RHS15R. I have been looking through the archives for examples of what kind of cover to build and it seems like the attached images for these messages are missing. I plan on gluing a 0.75"x2"x1.5" block of oak above the rheostats and building a three sided box out of 1/8" balsa wood that would attach with screws to this glued block. This method would allow the box to be removed when the next repair occurs, while the the open side of the box would provide an exit for the wires. Any suggestions or comments on my madness?ChrisSounds like you are attempting to keep combustibles away from an open backed rheostat. Am I understanding this correctly??If this is correct, do you have a way for heat to escape with your balsa box? I mean, the last thing you'd want to do is trap heat so that it builds up.Regards,Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Chris Posted August 19, 2008 Report Share Posted August 19, 2008 Sounds like you are attempting to keep combustibles away from an open backed rheostat. Am I understanding this correctly??If this is correct, do you have a way for heat to escape with your balsa box? I mean, the last thing you'd want to do is trap heat so that it builds up.Regards,Jerry Good Point Jerry. Yes, I am looking for a way to keep the fiberglass off of the open backed rheostats. I might make the glue block a little bit taller, omit the sides of the box and add a piece opposite the block to keep the balsa strip from bending into the rheostats. This should allow some airflow from two sides and keep the fiberglass off the rheostats.Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zilch Posted August 19, 2008 Report Share Posted August 19, 2008 Use sheetmetal, not balsa.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted August 19, 2008 Report Share Posted August 19, 2008 Good Point Jerry. Yes, I am looking for a way to keep the fiberglass off of the open backed rheostats. I might make the glue block a little bit taller, omit the sides of the box and add a piece opposite the block to keep the balsa strip from bending into the rheostats. This should allow some airflow from two sides and keep the fiberglass off the rheostats.ChrisWhy balsa? Oak is like a rock and balsa is like, well, balsa. Not very sturdy. Why not use 1/8" Masonite or the very thin plywood sold in craft stores like Michael's? I think the plywood wood be perfect. It comes in a piece about 6" x 12" for about a buck as I recall.Or contact Carl and ask for copies of his photos and advice on building the enclosure.Good luckKentPS I just found a copy of Carl's picture. Maybe he will reply to this post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlspeak Posted August 19, 2008 Report Share Posted August 19, 2008 Thanks Kent for the pic. Yes, that's an early model made with a removable top. Lately I've been making them out of 1/8 inch laminate and gluing the sides and gluing it to the back wall of the cabinet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Chris Posted August 19, 2008 Report Share Posted August 19, 2008 Why balsa? Oak is like a rock and balsa is like, well, balsa. Not very sturdy. Why not use 1/8" Masonite or the very thin plywood sold in craft stores like Michael's? I think the plywood wood be perfect. It comes in a piece about 6" x 12" for about a buck as I recall.Or contact Carl and ask for copies of his photos and advice on building the enclosure.Good luckKentPS I just found a copy of Carl's picture. Maybe he will reply to this post I see your point on using balsa. I was going to use that because it wanted to make this as small as possible in order to take up minimal cabinet volume. Now that I see Carl's picture, I may use some 1/4" oak plywood that I have in stock or buy some 1/8" laminate.Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted August 19, 2008 Report Share Posted August 19, 2008 Might this work? Never had to do it myself:http://www.cooking.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=726179 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onplane Posted August 19, 2008 Report Share Posted August 19, 2008 In thinking about all of the objectives (keeping fiberglass out, allowing heat to escape, not changing the interior volume, cheap, easy to assemble, etc.)How about something like:http://www.cooking.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=103669Regards,Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlspeak Posted August 19, 2008 Report Share Posted August 19, 2008 I'd say the tea ball wouldn't work for those conservative resotorer's out there. The diameter of fiberglass is in the range of 5-20 microns and bits of broken fiberglass could easily work their way thru the sieve design of a tea ball. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.