Guest Posted August 12, 2002 Report Share Posted August 12, 2002 I bought a nice looking pair of AR-2a speakers from the original owner at a yard sale for $20. Brought them home, hooked them up to my Yamaha 2020, (boy, are these kids power hungry!), and got only the woofers. I read in the forum about the pot's in back going bad, but how do I get the cabinette open??? Also saw a note about the capasitors going bad. While I'm in there, should I replace them too?Let me know, gang, so I can get these babe's cranking out some Buddy and Gene!!! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tysontom Posted August 12, 2002 Report Share Posted August 12, 2002 "If they are early 2's, 2a's I believe they had mids with poor power handling problems. The later 2x's had the better mid driver. Layne Audio has the replacement parts."The AR-2 (1958) and AR-2a (1959) used two 5-inch "modified" drivers for the midrange on the AR-2a and midrange-treble on the original AR-2. These low-cost Carbonneau Company drivers were modified by AR by coating the cone surrounds with damping compound and by placing fiberglass under the cone for improved damping. These drivers were mounted in a cast-plastic housing (originally sand-cast aluminum) with each driver facing each other at a slight angle. The crossover network was designed to compensate for the specific characteristics of the speaker, and the end result was output that was slightly depressed, but actually quite smooth for its time. The lack of output was somewhat intentional, but the "dullness" when compared with other midranges of the time was actually a smoothness. These two drivers were actually quite robust, and rarely burned out; however, the treatment, along with the fiberglass, caused the cones to warp and voice coils to rub in some cases. By 1964, AR introduced a new 3-1/2-inch midrange/tweeter, and this was a great improvement. The tweeter (first in the 1959 AR-2a) was the 8-ohm version of the AR-3's 1-3/8-inch super tweeter. By 1970, AR added a new woofer and the new 3/4-inch 8-ohm version of the AR-3a tweeter."...As long as your in the you might as well swap out the caps although I've never had a bad cap in any of the AR's I own."I would like to "second" this statement. I have actually never had a bad cap in the many AR speakers I've refurbished. AR originally used oil-filled mil-spec surplus caps, later going to the paper-dialectric caps and finally using the electrolytic caps (Callins and Sprague). All of these were rugged, and seldom failed unless zapped with excessive current. KLH speakers, and even some Advents, were well known for bad caps, but I have not seen this in AR speakers. --Tom Tyson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dogmeninreno Posted August 12, 2002 Report Share Posted August 12, 2002 Hello, Getting the grills out of the vintage AR2a series presents a challange. Look real close at the grills around the edges and you should see staples inserted thru the cloth. carefully remove ALL the staples, then you can insert a thin tool and carefully pry out the grills hopefully without damage. Most of these grills were just 3/16" thick masonite and break easily. Then you can replace the old pots or jumper them out. www.layneaudio.com has replacements if you are restoring or going to sell them. Good luck! Dale in Reno..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 12, 2002 Report Share Posted August 12, 2002 If they are early 2's, 2a's I believe they had mids with poor power handling problems. The later 2x's had the better mid driver. Layne Audio has the replacement parts.For opening them up you will need to attack the grille. I was able to use a putty knife to lift the grill and pulling the staples. remove the driver screws but note there will be a putty or foam sealing the driver to the cabinet. Use a screw driver or putty knife to raise the driver out. Be sure to seal the drivers down when putting the speakers back together. If you need more putty go to the hardware store and buy some Mor-tite window caulk. Dig through the fiberglass to get to the pots and crossover. Some folks just bypass the pots altogether. As long as your in the you might as well swap out the caps although I've never had a bad cap in any of the AR's I own.Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToastedAlmond Posted August 16, 2002 Report Share Posted August 16, 2002 I can't help but think, a whole lot of people are sorry they replaced caps, and a bunch are happy they didn't. I was thinking about doing that. Now I won't. If I have to get inside, maybe I will. But if not, I won't. Toasted Almond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dogmeninreno Posted August 17, 2002 Report Share Posted August 17, 2002 I agree with the responses. In all the AR speakers I buy, I test the caps in the xovers B/4 resale. I also have a spectrum analyzer program and I have not run across a bad cap. yet. Dale in Reno..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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