Thanks!!!

[oldguide]

Although the final finishing still needs a bit of work, I wanted to take the time to thank all of those on this forum who took the time to answer my questions about rebuilding my AR3s. There is no way I could have even begun to think about doing this without everyone's help. That the experts on this forum would take the time to help a newbie who obviously did not have a clue to what he was doing is a a tribute to this forum and its members.

I want to also especially single out the authors of the the rebuilding guide. This is quite simply one of the best documents of its type I have ever seen. The pages I printed are now dogeared and show a few stains because this guide literally sat on my workbench every step of the way. The instructions were clear, detailed and the inclusion of just the right pictures makes it possible for novices like me to attempt a speaker rebuild.

I don't know if it's Ok to do this, but I also want to thank Larry Lagace at Vintage AR for supplying the parts I needed as well as providing service that was exemplary.

Finally a few observations. When I started this, it was partly an experiment and a challenge. I wanted to know if I could do it and I wanted to hear what those ARs sounded like, because I had missed them. Quite frankly what I heard when I finally cranked up those speakers blew me away. I had forgotten that great AR "neutral" sound. I also was amazed at the "presence" of these speakers--they fill an sonic area so that if you close your eyes you can imagine exactly where each instrument is. I have been running them through a full batch of tests, seeking to tweak the pots, everything from organ music to electronic exotics, Bach Cantatas to Cream, Coltrane, and the Carter Family, Blues, Library of Congress legacy recordings and stuff like Balinese Gamelan music and John Cage. I'm hooked! Again.

Now I REALLY understand what Carl means when he says it's about the music. Even the wife was amazed, although the speakers take up more room, but the fact they actually look like fine furniture sold her on that.

So now that I am hooked, I probably will haunt garage sales for more ARs to supplement a surround system. This has also gotten me interested in rebuilding my old Dynaco stuff which I used to run with the ARs--a 120 and the original tube PAS pre amp.

Rather than fill up this page with comments on solutions to issues, I will try to now give back to others what you gave to me. For example, I built the stands from scratch basing them on the AR originals with a few tweaks. They are Oak. Walnut is pretty spendy these days and the walnut I can get is all VERY dark. If interested let me know.

One aside to Tyson Tom. Your comments about raising the speakers and the distance you gave were what prompted the stands. Man do they make a difference.

Attached are a couple of pictures:

[tysontom]

Although the final finishing still needs a bit of work, I wanted to take the time to thank all of those on this forum who took the time to answer my questions about rebuilding my AR3s. There is no way I could have even begun to think about doing this without everyone's help. That the experts on this forum would take the time to help a newbie who obviously did not have a clue to what he was doing is a a tribute to this forum and its members.

I want to also especially single out the authors of the the rebuilding guide. This is quite simply one of the best documents of its type I have ever seen. The pages I printed are now dogeared and show a few stains because this guide literally sat on my workbench every step of the way. The instructions were clear, detailed and the inclusion of just the right pictures makes it possible for novices like me to attempt a speaker rebuild.

I don't know if it's Ok to do this, but I also want to thank Larry Lagace at Vintage AR for supplying the parts I needed as well as providing service that was exemplary.

Finally a few observations. When I started this, it was partly an experiment and a challenge. I wanted to know if I could do it and I wanted to hear what those ARs sounded like, because I had missed them. Quite frankly what I heard when I finally cranked up those speakers blew me away. I had forgotten that great AR "neutral" sound. I also was amazed at the "presence" of these speakers--they fill an sonic area so that if you close your eyes you can imagine exactly where each instrument is. I have been running them through a full batch of tests, seeking to tweak the pots, everything from organ music to electronic exotics, Bach Cantatas to Cream, Coltrane, and the Carter Family, Blues, Library of Congress legacy recordings and stuff like Balinese Gamelan music and John Cage. I'm hooked! Again.

Now I REALLY understand what Carl means when he says it's about the music. Even the wife was amazed, although the speakers take up more room, but the fact they actually look like fine furniture sold her on that.

So now that I am hooked, I probably will haunt garage sales for more ARs to supplement a surround system. This has also gotten me interested in rebuilding my old Dynaco stuff which I used to run with the ARs--a 120 and the original tube PAS pre amp.

Rather than fill up this page with comments on solutions to issues, I will try to now give back to others what you gave to me. For example, I built the stands from scratch basing them on the AR originals with a few tweaks. They are Oak. Walnut is pretty spendy these days and the walnut I can get is all VERY dark. If interested let me know.

One aside to Tyson Tom. Your comments about raising the speakers and the distance you gave were what prompted the stands. Man do they make a difference.

Attached are a couple of pictures:

Oldguide,

You did a very nice job on your speakers! The stands look particularly good, and having the speakers recess down into the stand somewhat is a nice touch! Congratulations!

--Tom Tyson

[oldguide]

Tom,

Thanks for the compliment, that means a great deal considering the source.

Yes, the I raised the corner of the stands by exactly 1/2 inch on purpose. I just didn't want someone bumping in to them and knocking them over. I don't know if this was the right think to do, but I also allowed 1/4 inch space so the speakers were not in there too tight. I assumed the idea was to not have the stands be part of the resonance and having the speakers crammed in there would have done that. It also took me back to my old geometry class to try to figure out the angles for the X's. For those who are interested they are 15 degrees on a radial arm saw. The rest is relatively inexpensive to build: 1 x 4s, 1 x 2s, some 3/8 dowel rods for a more secure connection and I also like the effect. You could also mortise them.

Thanks again for all your help with this project.

Now to find some more ARs for a surround system.

[dynaco_dan]

Tom,

Thanks for the compliment, that means a great deal considering the source.

Yes, the I raised the corner of the stands by exactly 1/2 inch on purpose. I just didn't want someone bumping in to them and knocking them over. I don't know if this was the right think to do, but I also allowed 1/4 inch space so the speakers were not in there too tight. I assumed the idea was to not have the stands be part of the resonance and having the speakers crammed in there would have done that. It also took me back to my old geometry class to try to figure out the angles for the X's. For those who are interested they are 15 degrees on a radial arm saw. The rest is relatively inexpensive to build: 1 x 4s, 1 x 2s, some 3/8 dowel rods for a more secure connection and I also like the effect. You could also mortise them.

Thanks again for all your help with this project.

Now to find some more ARs for a surround system.

Hi there;

Nice job with the stands.

If I may suggest to you, using the original type self sticking round felt pads, be placed close to the open edge of the riser and on both vertical surfaces so the the corner of the speaker cabinets do not get scarred.

Also they will be no resonances passed through.

The orginal speaker bases only had one felt tab on top of the main risers which was a close invitation to slide off with just a small bump.

Your slight recess adds a stability that AR could not have afforded to do at that time or just never thought of that idea at all.

Our local lumber yards here used to, a long time ago, stock solid walnut from 1" x 2" to 1" x 8" and more square pieces for a reasonable price.

I tried to just find any pieces at all about 10 years ago, to make a hifi shelving unit, other than walnut veneer edging, I was not successful finding anything similar.

It would cost about $30.00 CDN to buy smaller pieces of walnut matched veneer pieces for each AR-7 speaker from Lee Valley.

They do have larger matched burl walnut for $60.00+ CDN.

I own one stereo speaker system pair of original solid walnut AR speaker bases and the horizontal pieces were joined to their uprights with different type wood joints.

[Guest Ron]

Old Guide,

I have a pair of AR3s that I am thinking about restoring. Looks like you did a great job, thorough, etc. Did you happen to come across any sort of overview document for doing this? I'm trying to figure out if this is something that I can do on my own or not. I know that there is such a document on this website for AR-3a speakers.

Many thanks,

Ron

[dynaco_dan]

Old Guide,

I have a pair of AR3s that I am thinking about restoring. Looks like you did a great job, thorough, etc. Did you happen to come across any sort of overview document for doing this? I'm trying to figure out if this is something that I can do on my own or not. I know that there is such a document on this website for AR-3a speakers.

Many thanks,

Ron

Hi Ron;

You did not direct the question to me, I thought I would add one more comment.

The AR-3A is such a large cabinet, finding a larger sheet of veneer is more expensive, difficult to find but available.

[oldguide]

Dan,

Thanks for the advice about the pads. I was just using felt furniture pads till your email reminded me I still have an extra envelope of original AR pads. Also thanks for all your help in my project.

Not sure about the restore query? Do you mean the veneer/wood finish or the stands? The cheapest veneer I could find is available from Rockler (Google it). I say cheap, just because they sell in smaller volumes than most suppliers who sell 2x8 or 4x8 sheets. I think the Rockler sheets are 2x2. You want to get the sheets that have 3M adhesive backing. Unless you have worked with a lot of veneer, bare veneer and contact cement is only for those who know what they are doing. Check on your AR boxes or documents to see what finish you have. Tyson Tom posted a great post on the original finishes for the AR3a and the color sheets for them, so if you aren't sure what you have use Tom's pictures. Then just buy the veneer of that wood species.

If you feel you have to reveneer--and only do this as a last resort--then replace an entire panel unless you've done marquetry. But before you reveneer, try sanding. If parts haver raised up or cracked you can always reglue them. The caveat is treat these like the fine antiques they are and the cardinal rule in antiquing is don't mess with the finish unless you have to.

If you have to reveneer, it's nice if you can actually go to the store to look at the veneer. If your cabinets are as bad as the top of one of mine was with the veneer peeling away and generally shot, you can bring a small chip along. Otherwise just use a digital photo.

As has been much discussed on this board the trick is finding a veneer to match your originals. I can't remember whose post it was (my apologies) but the best way to do the refinish is to just sand down the old veneer and then apply the new and match them via staining using Watco oil. Just be careful sanding--use only fine (200 or over paper) and as someone pointed out DO NOT use steel wool because you run the risk of those tiny particles getting into the cabinet. I wet sanded just to keep the dust down. There are lots of web pages about refinishing, so just Google for tips and techniques.

I was a bit more stubborn and wanted to keep the exact same finish I had, so what I ended up doing was bleaching out the Rockler sheet, then staining it "up" to match. The closest stain I could find that matches the original finish is Varathane light walnut. I also was stubborn and used hand-rubbed wax, but that's takes more time and is just a personal choice.

As for the stands, they are actually quite easy. The trick is cutting the angle for the cross in the middle. You can use a dado blade or a cross cut/finish blade in a radial arm or table saw to notch out using two cuts and a chisel. The angle of those cuts is 15 degrees. By that I mean if your piece of wood is lying flat on the saw table you set the blade angle to 15. You then notch half way through each piece and they slide together. You can glue them together or leave them unglued so they can be disassembled.

After that the rest is easy. The actual corner to corner dimensions on the AR3 are 18 inches, so I cut mine a half inch longer to allow 1/4 inch at each end for the raised corner. Use two by twos for the corner posts. Tom had mentioned 14 inches as a good height, so I cut mine 14 1/2 to get the notch. Interestingly I have built many speaker stands over the years for a variety of speakers and the rule i was always given was that the tweeters should be about ear height sitting in a chair. Tom's 14 inches is just right.

Instead of mortising the corners, I wanted the look of the dowels. To do that I built a jig out of scrap lumber that clamped on the end of each one by four to be sure the holes were drilled exactly where I wanted them and the 1x4 was centered on the 2x2.

Email me and I would be glad to send more info. Maybe I should gin up some actual plans.

Bottom line, if you have the right tools you should be fine. If you are good with a Skilsaw or handsaw and a drill you could even do it that way. The main thing is that if you use oak, you can screw up a bit and still not spend all that much. I built a prototype out of scrap pine just to use as a model and see if I liked it.

Good luck.