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Dynaco Speaker design


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Back in the early 70's a friend of mine had a pair of A-25's and they sounded just great! Not sure how they would stack up against my AR-3a's. Nevertheless, their sound was clearly "high end" at that time.

My question today is about the over design of the A-25's. Anybody know anything about this "highly damped vent" design?

I've never seen it any speaker other than the Dynaco's. Was it a design more common in Europe perhaps? Any modern speaker companies using this design? It just seems that everything today is "tuned port - reflex" with the occasional "sealed box".

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>Back in the early 70's a friend of mine had a pair of A-25's

>and they sounded just great! Not sure how they would stack up

>against my AR-3a's. Nevertheless, their sound was clearly

>"high end" at that time.

Hi there;

Side by side comparisons, with good, decent amplification will give you a test drive not to be believed.

At the street selling prices here of $51.00 versus $300.00+ per speaker it may not seem fair, but it was an amazing comparison.

You could pick apart either speaker at different frequencies with different music.

I think a fairer test would have been with a closed blind test, behind a curtain so as not to be able to see which one is playing.

After owning both, I would have found it difficult to say that the AR-3A was worth the extra money, back then, or today.

The same I will say about the single Larger Advent speaker system.

Outstanding speakers in their price range, but not an AR-3A in the end, but very similar and I found them most satisfying.

My big bros went from AR-4X's to 2AX's to AR-5 in pine, walnut veneered them, to Dynaco A-25's for 1/2 hour, then to AR-3A's and then to AR-LST's.

That is right, only 1/2 hour was all that he could stand of the A-25's.

J Gordon Holts's Stereophile review of the A-25 may have really been overboard, but not by very much.

How can you say a $79.95 speaker outruns an AR-3A, Janzsen's and even KLH Nine at Over $1,000.00?

Easy, just say it, sit back and enjoy.

My question today is about the over design of the A-25's.

>Anybody know anything about this "highly damped

>vent" design?

>

>I've never seen it any speaker other than the Dynaco's. Was

>it a design more common in Europe perhaps? Any modern speaker

>companies using this design? It just seems that everything

>today is "tuned port - reflex" with the occasional

>"sealed box".

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Hi there;

Actually the A-25 speaker prices are like a yoyo, but at least they aren't at bargain basement clearance prices, as far as the seller is concerned.

As far as that auction goes, there was one several months ago and it was over $400.00.

The very same day another pair went for under $50.00, can't figure.

The tweeter is one tough mother, I do not remember ever replacing one in a Dynaco A-25, versus replacing hundreds of A-25 woofers.

I had quite a bit of experience with the A-25's, the most popular speaker, at least in my home town.

There were several issues with that particular model speakers woofer.

I love the neoprene surround, no foam rot.

I do own 1/2 of an A-10, but I can't, in all honesty, say I lived with A-10 speakers.

The A-35's and A-50's I have lived with, they are ok, that is another story.

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>Vern, the failed woofers are due to weak power handling

>capability?

>

>Regards,

>Jerry

Hi Jerry;

In regards to the Dynaco A-25 speaker system only.

Hundreds of woofers went through the shop I had been working at, for a few years here in Vancouver.

If I remember correctly, Dynaco SCA-80 and Q versions were the most popular amp of choice that seemed to be the culprits.

You can only turn up the amps volume so far, until it runs out of steam.

Back then it was party time, all the time, and I think everyone just turned the volume up and was too stoned to hear the distortion at that time in our history.

I do not remember how Dynaco treated all cases of burnt voice coils, there were the exceptions though.

Remember that this was pre-computer and fax machines, letter writing back and forth took weeks for a response.

I was not a business partner and privy to each and every piece of corespondance.

If the voice coil had become un-glued from the former, it was covered under warantee, as I remember, burnt or not.

Bass boost was another cause, everyone seemed to like boom, boom, boom as well.

If they all had Crown DC-300A amps instead, then the story might have been a little different, I do not know.

As ridiculous as it sounds, that may have been a good match, double Dynaco A-25's and a Crown DC-300A amp.

I have no information on the true power handling capabilities of the woofers, it was the weaker of the two drivers by far, no doubt.

Irregardless, you could get a really loud clean sound from a pair.

If you could read the original, Stereophile Magazines J Gordon Holt's review, maybe it was a slightly overboard review, but a highly regarded reviewer in his day, you might appreciate them a lot more that we do.

I lived with A-25's and other models and brands of speakers over the years and I can say that, they are a close relative in sound to AR, KLH, EPI, Advent, ADC, Allison and others with the East Coast sound.

They sound only similar, not the same, exactly.

If we started out with any of these brands, we were hifi sterophile buffs.

They do need a good clean 8 ohm output amp with perhaps 50 - 150 watts per speaker pair.

Fused with, not the original recommended 1 amp fast blow fuse, but downsized to perhaps, 7/8 or even 3/4 amp fast blow fuses, have lots of spares on hand, and I believe there is a lot of future listening enjoyment to be had.

There always is drivers, both Seas, and Scan to a lesser degree, and tweeters as well on ebay.

The only buying caution that I will say is, there is Scan and Seas, but that would only be about knotching the cabinets for the horns of the Seas woofers, and also the most common 8 ohm versus the 16 ohm A-50 drivers.

There is also other worldwide speaker companies, that used different impedance look-a-like drivers, they would not be compatible impedance wise with the Dynaco speakers.

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  • 4 months later...
Guest matty g

Hi Vern

I was surprised to read about A-25 systems having woofer burnout issues. You are right about some people not knowing when their amps are clipping and going dc.

I recently purchased a MINT pair of A25's (in the original cartons) from my local vintage stereo shop. They sounded beautiful with the exception of the somewhat lacking high end. The Seas tweeters were working, but they sounded more like midranges to me. I replaced them with Vifa 1" silk domes, and now they sound terrific. I do prefer my AR3A's, but for the remote speakers in the den the A25's can't be beat.

Do you think the Vifa's are okay with the existing crossover? They sure sound ok!! I'm driving with a Pioneer SX-850 (65 watts rms?)

Also you mentioned fuses. Do these units have fuses in the cabinets?

Lastly, they have beautiful brownish-pumpkin colored grills. Have you ever seen those before? I remember the older Scan Speak and the newer Seas units having white grill cloth. I also noticed that they moved the aperiodic vent from under the tweeter to under the woofer. Was this due to the Seas drivers having a different dynamic?

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> Hi Vern

>

> I was surprised to read about A-25 systems having woofer

>burnout issues. You are right about some people not knowing

>when their amps are clipping and going dc.

>

> I recently purchased a MINT pair of A25's (in the original

>cartons) from my local vintage stereo shop. They sounded

>beautiful with the exception of the somewhat lacking high end.

> The Seas tweeters were working, but they sounded more like

>midranges to me. I replaced them with Vifa 1" silk

>domes, and now they sound terrific. I do prefer my AR3A's,

>but for the remote speakers in the den the A25's can't be

>beat.

>

> Do you think the Vifa's are okay with the existing crossover?

>They sure sound ok!! I'm driving with a Pioneer SX-850 (65

>watts rms?)

>Also you mentioned fuses. Do these units have fuses in the

>cabinets?

>Lastly, they have beautiful brownish-pumpkin colored grills.

>Have you ever seen those before? I remember the older Scan

>Speak and the newer Seas units having white grill cloth. I

>also noticed that they moved the aperiodic vent from under the

>tweeter to under the woofer. Was this due to the Seas drivers

>having a different dynamic?

Hi Matt;

When we were the local hifi warantee depot for numerous brands, including Dynaco, we saved several large speaker cartons full of 10" baskets of burned out woofers, just in case a re-build kit would be coming out in the future.

I'll ask the owner what he did with them after I stopped helping him in the mid'70's, pretty sure they were dumpstered.

Of course everyone would say they never had it very loud. Yeh sure!

There was no published graphs or outlandish claims on the A-25's frequency response from Dynaco.

Smoothness wa the norm.

Magazine reviews would always show the outstanding transient responses of the woofer and tweeter.

I do not remember the A-25's crossover point right now.

The crossover of course is only a simple NP capacitor only to protect the tweeter from lower frquencies, the woofer rolls off naturally.

There will be an overlap in frequencies, I never read anything negative about that in any review.

The tweeters were compared to the AR-4X's and KLH Seventeen's.

Not as clear as electrostatics and not an extended range driver.

Handles a lot of power compared to the 10" woofers.

The actual tweeter output should be maybe considered smoother than most, rather than lacking highs.

A more extended tweeter will sound clearer, but now we are not talking about a Dynaco A-25's sound.

I would suggest a search of the crossover point and resonace freq. for your Vifa tweeter and add that to this topic, please.

The AR-4X and maybe even the A-25 have a lower than normal crossover point and you may be jeopordizing the tweeter if the cap is the wrong value for the Vifa.

You can't do much with the A-25's crossover, there is not a woofer coil so you can't alter that point.

If you change the value of the cap to raise the crossover point, the woofer output will be different and may ruin the sound.

Fuses is my favourite topic, Dynaco spec'd a 1 amp fast blow glass fuse, maybe $.25 cents per fuse.

There was no fuseholder with the speakers.

You would need to buy an open style mount fuseholder per speaker enclosure, not a chasis style, and maybe even use 3/4 or 7/8 amp fast blow fuses to give even more protection for the old drivers.

Installing it at the amp or speaker is discussed in the, "other forum".

Protection from the leads shorting is discused and very important.

Please go to the, "other forum", and read the, "Fast Blow Fuses", topic that I started and keep adding to when something about fusing comes up.

There is references to Crown for interesting speaker and power requirements.

There was not a slow blow fuse suggested, please leave that issue alone.

As a side note, I will be posting another write-up soon regarding a slow blow fuse source.

Can you please post a photo of your grille cloth and front and rear of cabinet.

Dynaco used a flecked beige linen cloth for their classics.

Seas, and less so Scan supplied the A-25's.

The total story regarding why Scan was visually different with the vent at least, has not been clearly discussed so far, at least I haven't seen it anywhere yet.

The prototype was originally rejected as a 4 ohm system and was spec'd as an 8 ohm system.

Seas was the designing company, I don't know how Scan came into and then out of the picture.

The reversal of the vent locations, mirror image pairs are just two unknown details as of right now at least.

I haven't done a comparison with my Scan and Seas speakers to see if there is a sonic difference.

I suspect that there won't be very much if any or Dynaco would have made a big issue of it and would have changed the model, etc.

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I've had more than 20 pair of A-25s pass through my house and ALL had the lighter off-white grilles. Do yours say "Made in Denmark" on the back? I'm entertaining the possibility that yours are later A-25s, possibly made in the USA. But if the tweeters are SEAS, then I assume they had the same drivers and crossover components. A-25 tweeters definitely roll off above 14khz or so, but I wouldn't describe their sound as midrange-like, though Dynaco A-25s overall have a midrangy sound, without the "BBC dip" that's kind of like a built in loudness control. I like using them with a subwoofer crossed over at the bottom setting on the sub. It adds that last little bit of heft that they lack (relative to Large Advents, AR-3as, etc.)...

Best,

Colin

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Guest matty g

Thanks for the fuse and design info on the A25 series. I would love to post photos of these ones, but I don't have a camera yet (maybe for Christmas? hint). They do indeed say "Made in Denmark" on the back of the cabinet and they have the same multi position tweeter control that I remember all of them having. They have never been touched prior to my replacing the tweeter, and the little brass badge on the front of them bears the Dynaco logo in lower case just as all of the others did.

The cartons have the original labels on them which read Dynaco (in their logo style) Model:A 25 Walnut Serial No: 19-145204 Made in Denmark. The sealing tape around the carton also has the Dynaco logo on it and then in script reads "for the audio perfectionist". That really says it all! Also noticed on the back of the cabinet on the bottom of the tweeter control a red stamp with the initials "VH", whom I suspect is probably a final inspector.

I was flipping through back issues of Consumer Reports magazine from '67 through '75, and between '70-'73 the A25 was the top rated best buy in it's class. It's class was high accuracy loudspeaker systems, and the report read "Very smooth response-slight exaggeration in bass(70to150 hz) Slight weakness in highs above 2000Hz. A best buy $80 in U.S. $84 Canada.

Now THATS a bargain!

Matt

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Guest matty g

Hi Vern

I forgot the most important thing! The Vifas don't really mention a recommended crossover point, however the specs indicate that the freq. range starts at 2,500 and reaches to 30,000. The power rating is 100 watts rms/140 max and the imp. is 6 ohms with an Re of 4.6 ohms. The Fs rating is 1000 hz and the spl is 91 db.(is the Fs rating the recommended x-over point?). I chose this tweeter because it had a lower bottom end, assuming that the crossover point on the Dynas was lower than a 3 way design. Also because they would fit with minimal cabinet modification(just some slight notching for the leads).

I did a mono A-B test with one of the new tweeters installed against the original Seas in the other cabinet. While sitting directly in front of both speakers and the amp set to mono (to keep both channels equal). I alternated between left and right and listened carefully. There weren't any "holes" in the mids, and everything sounded identical except for the extended highs. I tried this at all settings of the tweeter control on the back of the speaker as well.

The original Seas tweeter spec. tag reads 1 1/2" Dome Tweeter Type Dome 87 H. 4-8 ohms 523 4471 and the sticker on the back bears the number 509019. I assume that all A-25 units with Seas drivers have the same model tweeters, but you never know.

One last thing: is the selector switch on the back of the A-25 simply a resistor network switch like the KLH design, or is it some sort of capacitor-resistor-coil changeover? I swear it sounds like the midrange gets boosted above the "Norm" setting (noticed this with original tweeters as well as new ones), and I don't want to open these beauties up to investigate.

Thanks for your help

Matt

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> Hi Vern

>

> I forgot the most important thing! The Vifas don't really

>mention a recommended crossover point, however the specs

>indicate that the

freq. range starts at 2,500

This is not good as the A-25 has a much lower frequesncy response.

and reaches to

>30,000. The power rating is 100 watts rms/140 max and the

imp. is 6 ohms

This is not completely compatible with the A-25 tweeter which is 8 ohms.

The Vifa tweeter at 6 ohms should be 1 - 2 dB louder that the 8 ohm tweeter.

with an Re of 4.6 ohms. The Fs rating is 1000 hz and

>

the spl is 91 db.

I believe the A-25 is about 89dB or slighly less efficient.

(is the Fs rating the recommended x-over

>point?). I chose this tweeter because it had a lower bottom

>end, assuming that the crossover point on the Dynas was lower

>than a 3 way design. Also because they would fit with minimal

>cabinet modification(just some slight notching for the

>leads).

>

> I did a mono A-B test with one of the new tweeters installed

>against the original Seas in the other cabinet. While sitting

>directly in front of both speakers and the amp set to mono (to

>keep both channels equal). I alternated between left and right

>and listened carefully. There weren't any "holes" in

>the mids, and everything sounded identical except for the

>extended highs. I tried this at all settings of the tweeter

>control on the back of the speaker as well.

>

> The original Seas tweeter spec. tag reads 1 1/2" Dome

>Tweeter Type Dome 87 H. 4-8 ohms 523 4471 and the sticker on

>the back bears the number 509019.

I assume that all A-25 units

>with Seas drivers have the same model tweeters, but you never

>know.

The A-10, A-25, A-35 and the A-50 used the same Seas tweeters but the A-10 used a 6.5" woofer and the A-50 used 16 ohm woofers.

> One last thing: is the selector switch on the back of the

>A-25 simply a resistor network switch like the KLH design, or

>is it some sort of capacitor-resistor-coil changeover? I swear

>it sounds like the midrange gets boosted above the

>"Norm" setting (noticed this with original tweeters

>as well as new ones), and I don't want to open these beauties

>up to investigate.

>

>

> Thanks for your help

> Matt

>

The A-25 contains no woofer inductance coil, but does have the wire-wound resistors and one tweeter cap.

The highs will sound boosted because you have decreased the resistance allowing more power to the tweeter.

You cannot actually boost the highs, you are actually decreasing the highs when reducing from maximum setting to lowest.

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Could the AR folks have predicted that the Dynaco tweeter attenuator design would be more durable long term? I'm listening to another pair of AR4xs I came up with and I WAS able to find sweet spots on the pots of this pair. But the continuous pots on the ARs a are a pain in general, relative to the five-position switches on the Dynacos. These ARs sound pretty nice overall, though. There's more chestiness to male announcers on FM, and the highs are more rolled off, relative to Dynaco A-25s, but the overall effect is quite musical.

--C

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>Could the AR folks have predicted that the Dynaco tweeter

>attenuator design would be more durable long term? I'm

>listening to another pair of AR4xs I came up with and I WAS

>able to find sweet spots on the pots of this pair. But the

>continuous pots on the ARs a are a pain in general, relative

>to the five-position switches on the Dynacos. These ARs sound

>pretty nice overall, though. There's more chestiness to male

>announcers on FM, and the highs are more rolled off, relative

>to Dynaco A-25s, but the overall effect is quite musical.

>

>--C

It's my guess that nobody ever thought that these speakers would still be in use 40 years later.

I believe that Henry Kloss went from pots to switches when he started KLH. My guess is that change had more to do with costs than longevity.

Regards,

Jerry

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  • 4 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Guest fetzenpeter

QUESTION to the Dynaco A 25 buffs.

I am a German coming from Berlin and living in Paris.

I bought a pair of A-25s back in 1969 (dynaco inc 3060 Jefferson St., Philadelphia, Pa.19121, but apparently coming from Denmark) from my first salary, and have enjoyed their great sound and quality since then. They have survived several generations of amplifiers and about 8 to 9 moves in Germany and Europe. I never wanted to change them.

A month ago one of the two speakers stopped functioning and does not produce anything any more, but a barely audible noise, when the amplifier is fully turned up.

I have changed the cable, put it on the other channel, nothing to be done.

Does anybody please know :

- WHERE TO FIND A CONSTRUCTION AND CIRCUITRY PLAN FOR THE A-25 ?

- HOW TO OPEN THE LOUDSPEAKER CABINET ?

- WHAT TO LOOK FOR INSIDE, IN A CASE LIKE THIS ?

- WHAT KIND OF EXCHANGE PARTS I MIGHT EVENTUALLY NEED ?

Thanks a lot, for your kind help,

fetzenpeter

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>QUESTION to the Dynaco A 25 buffs.

>

>I am a German coming from Berlin and living in Paris.

>I bought a pair of A-25s back in 1969 (dynaco inc 3060

>Jefferson St., Philadelphia, Pa.19121,

but apparently coming from Denmark

The classic Dynaco A-10, A-25, A-35 and A-50 speakers were made only in Denmark.

Scan was the first supplier of drivers at least, then Seas took over.

The full story of the relationship between Scan, Seas and Dynaco is yet to be told.

from my first salary, and have enjoyed their

>great sound and quality since then. They have survived several

>generations of amplifiers and about 8 to 9 moves in Germany

>and Europe. I never wanted to change them.

>

>A month ago one of the two speakers stopped functioning

If one channel is working as you feel is normal, disconnect that one and connect up the speaker that feel is, deader than a doornail, to the good channel.

If the speaker is not at fault, the sound should follow the speaker.

I am assuming that thr speaker wires are not shorted.

and

>does not produce anything any more, but a barely audible

>noise,

when the amplifier is fully turned up.

Not a good practice to turn up the volume so high.

>I have changed the cable, put it on the other channel, nothing

>to be done.

I read this that you did swap out the speakers already.

The same speaker cabinet is totaly dead?

No tweeter or woofer?

Disconnect the good speaker cable on the amp and try the other channel.

>Does anybody please know :

>- WHERE TO FIND A CONSTRUCTION AND CIRCUITRY PLAN FOR THE A-25

>?

>- HOW TO OPEN THE LOUDSPEAKER CABINET ?

Still, do not go there, yet.

>- WHAT TO LOOK FOR INSIDE, IN A CASE LIKE THIS ?

>- WHAT KIND OF EXCHANGE PARTS I MIGHT EVENTUALLY NEED ?

>

>Thanks a lot, for your kind help,

>

>fetzenpeter

>

Try the above and report back with your progress please and more help to follow.

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Guest fetzenpeter

Thanks a lot Vern, for coming to help me. Here in Paris I felt pretty lost with my problem.

I again tested in the following manner:

- tested the good speaker on the left channel : perfect

- took the good speaker off its cable and hooked the bad speaker on to this same cable (red-red, black-black)

- tested again : very bad and very w e a k sound - resembles an old 1940ies radio with bad reception, plenty of rustles and wissles mixed in. Sound comes out of center of speaker front, presumably the woofer.

There you are. And believe me, I do not burn to open the cabinet !

Best regards, Christian

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>Thanks a lot Vern, for coming to help me. Here in Paris I

>felt pretty lost with my problem.

>

>I again tested in the following manner:

>

>- tested the good speaker on the left channel : perfect

>- took the good speaker off its cable and hooked the bad

>speaker on to this same cable (red-red, black-black)

>- tested again : very bad and very w e a k sound - resembles

>an old 1940ies radio with bad reception, plenty of rustles and

>wissles mixed in. Sound comes out of center of speaker front,

>presumably the woofer.

>

>There you are. And believe me, I do not burn to open the

>cabinet !

>

>Best regards, Christian

Hi again Christian;

I wish I could come to Paris to help you. LOL LOL

I read it now that you swapped the speakers, one speaker still works and one does not, on the same two wires?

I should have suggested that you turn the switch for the tweeter back and forth to clean the contacts and leave it at the highest setting.

Just to kick a dead horse, can you find another speaker of any kind and try the change again.

This would absolutely eliminate the possibility that the bad speaker is the only one still bad.

I am surprised that you would lose both of the woofer and tweeter.

If you have done that, now turn the bad speakers Dynaco logo CCW until it is out of the grille cloth frame.

Using a clean putty type knife, slide it between the cabinet and the grill cloth frame and pry ever so gently up.

Starting near a corner is stronger.

The frames are glued on with a pretty goop.

Can you now take a front driver photo and rear connections photo as well, please, and download it for all of us to see?

Then more advice to follow, Christian.

After all of this is done, I would suggest a fast blow 1 amp fuse be installed in your speaker line.

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Here is a link to the SEAS (U.K.) website about a DIY wanabee of the A-25:

http://www.seas.co.uk/pdf/WD25A%20loudspeakerkit%20pt1.pdf

There are dimensions, etc. You should be able to Google search for the subsequent articles.

John

>Back in the early 70's a friend of mine had a pair of A-25's

>and they sounded just great! Not sure how they would stack up

>against my AR-3a's. Nevertheless, their sound was clearly

>"high end" at that time.

>

>My question today is about the over design of the A-25's.

>Anybody know anything about this "highly damped

>vent" design?

>

>I've never seen it any speaker other than the Dynaco's. Was

>it a design more common in Europe perhaps? Any modern speaker

>companies using this design? It just seems that everything

>today is "tuned port - reflex" with the occasional

>"sealed box".

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Hi there;

Thank you for the link.

I did save it and also printed it out.

I'll read it and comment later.

First off though, the tweeter is not the classic Seas tweeter and the woofer is not the classic Seas woofer either.

After Scan drivers were used in the beginning, they used Seas and then later on they used another brand or model when they became made in the USA.

More to read, thank you.

I'm back again, read it and here is my opinion.

This is an article of interest to someone who wants to make up a speaker system, based on the earlier Dynaco A-25 aperiodic system.

It uses the latest, somewhat equivalent, drivers available from Seas today.

There is another 2 parts to be published for this project for those interested.

Until this article is finished and with no errors or corrections, I would not attempt to start buying any parts, just yet.

Of course for the hobbiest, hifi buff, there is always the feeling of making something special.

MDF cabinet, perhaps 1" thick, solidly built. MMMMM

I would like to see the cost of the woofer and tweeter in US dollars too.

As to how close it will sound to the original A-25, is anyones guess, at this point.

And to which will it sound closest, Scan or Seas version?

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Hi again;

I just and visited www.Seas.co.uk web site and looked at their speakers and kits.

This particular kit, World Designs WD25A, is GBP/Euro E214.99/E311.74 for only the entry level parts, less enclosures, for a pair.

Maybe someone could translate these figures to US dollars, please.

There is also a step-up to an XL driver and improved crossover, at additional cost of course.

I did not go there to see this information.

I went there to try to see the 2 follow-up articles, which I did not find successfully.

Considering we can usually buy Dynaco classic A-25 pairs for about $50.00 - $150.00+ U$ on ebay.

At times Dynaco classic A-25XL speakers can be had for not too much more.

Looking at the WD25A, I see a nice looking shallow front face, less diffraction, also easy to poke fingers into the drivers.

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