Guest slownlo Posted October 6, 2007 Report Share Posted October 6, 2007 I just got a pair of "bull front" large Advents...re-surrounded the woofers, oil-soaped and polished the cabs, re-fabric'd the grill covers and lastly:The parts in the original XO IMO are pretty crappy, and the "switch" is nothing more than a noise generator...the idea of switching between bright/neutral/decreased doesn't fit todays hi-end equipment...If I'm using a $3K 300B SET amp I'm looking for neutral, and I'd like to be able to use todays hi-end cables so those old binding posts have to go too...Granted, this is the whole point of vintage gear right? In all its imperfection it takes us back to the good old days...but for me, without changing the classic asthetics, I like using newer "better" parts to really get the most out of those drivers. I want to make sure that eveything my amp is saying "gets" to those classic transducers in the best possible condition with minimal coloration. Todays components are light years ahead of the stuff used back in the 1970's. Capacitor, coil, resistor and even wire technology has come a loooong way since then. So....I rebuilt the XO's using Auricaps, Mills resistors, and Alpha-core inductors. Mounting everything on a masonite board and securing them on the floor of the cabinet with standoffs. I replaced the old binding posts with 5-way Vampires, and used all 18ga silve wire inside.The speakers still have the stock vintage look (accept for the rear) and the impovment in sound is nothing short of spectacular. If you think they sound good stock, you ain't really heard what that fried egg tweeter/Acoustic suspension woofer is actually capable of! Wow! Bass is much more articulate. The bass actually breaths better, and driver control is enhanced so transients are much more defined in terms of "attack"...that "cappy" sound is gone from the midrange, mids are now smooth and sexy, and highs appear to be better extended. The Addies seem to image much better now also, performer placement is better defined...I attached a copy of the schematic without the "switch garbage"...The whole thing only cost $80 to do, that includes woofer re-foaming, re-fabric of the grills and XO parts...Money well spent reviving a classic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug G. Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 Kinda cocky aren't ya?Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest slownlo Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 I now realize this should have gone in the tweak section...all apologies...but aside from that, you calling me "cocky" is pretty cocky...whats your problem Doug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest slownlo Posted October 10, 2007 Report Share Posted October 10, 2007 Shot of them with dust covers off. Woofers resurrouned, tweeters repaired (I had to solder back broken voice-coil leads), recapped the XO, and repaired the grills with new cloth...and voila! These are different than the ones mentioned in the beginning of the thread...Instead of the plumbers putty for seaing the drivers, try using silicone rubber...its easier to work with an provides a much tighter seal...it also scraps off easier if you need to do re-work...2826.txt2827.txt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Walter Rego Posted October 14, 2007 Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 Hi slownlow.I just found this forum. I have a pair of Advent Walnut Loudspeakers and would like to try your X-over upgrade. Please forgive me as I am somewhat of a dummy but think I can at least build the X-over myself. Questions: is the first component at top left of your diagram, labeled 16uf/400v DC the Auricap capacitor?. The next one, to the right labeled 3 Ohm/5W is the Mills resistor correct? The two other components, labeled 43 mh and 1.5mh, if I remember my high school electronics, are iron core inductors, correct? So I guess those are the Alpha-core brand. Regarding the wiring, is the wire that comes off of the + input terminal and heads to the 1.5mh inductor and then to the green + woofer terminal supposed to cross over the black wire that goes to the - input terminal? Just want to make sure that I don't fry my speakers or amp. Again, forgive my ignorance. I'm a long time audiophilebut haven't tried building anything myself before. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draftingmonkey Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 You need to make sure when you attach a photo that you specify a jpg or whatever type you are using. The last two attachments were specified as txt files so I can't see them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SpruceMoose Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 thats odd. they open up in another copy of IE for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stan461 Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 BTW here are "slownlo's" 2 pics from the above post so you all can see them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.