KLH Model 17 Question

[Guest]

I recently picked up a pair of Model 17's. The bass response is not too good. In fact, the Model 32's and Advent/3's I have seem to go deeper than the 17's. Can anyone tell me if the 17's are supposed to sound like this? I know they've been opened up, but the drivers appear to be original, and the 3 position frequency switches are working. Also, any other info regarding the 17's and 32's would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Guest]

Hello,

I have a pair of model 17, model 20 (4 ohm version of 17) and model 30 (re-styled and cost reduced 17). Each of these have virtually the same sound, and the bass is of reasonable performance given the woofer vintage and box volume. I don't know what your 17s sound like, but with most program material the bass should be at least as good as the model 32.

Jim.

[Guest]

Thanks. I agree that the 17's should sound at least as good as the 32's. Since they've been opened, I'm wondering if the drivers are not sealed well enough. Can anyone advise on the best sealing material?

[Guest]

Check to see if the original 'foam' gaskets are still in place.

Also, one thing I've noticed on original KLH and some older AR woofers with the formed fabric surrounds, is that whatever they were doped with breaks down over the years, and air passes right through (the newest 17s are 25 years old now). I read somewhere that the original material was butyl rubber disolved in toluene, but I was never able to confirm. I have made my own 'goop' out of acrylic latex caulk cut with water. I carefully brush it on the surrounds to fill the 'pores'. I picked this technique up from an old article in Speaker Builder mag.

I've also been told that Welbond (sp?) white glue cut with water also works well for this, but I have never tried it.

Jim.

[Guest]

That could be it. I will give it a shot. The surrounds on the 17's appear to have some 'light' areas. I 'll let you know what happens. Thank you.

[Guest]

I used the latex caulking (cut with water) on the surrounds and it made a big difference. They sound much better now. I also switched receivers - I was using a Pioneer SX 980 - now the 17's are connected to my SX 535. They sound better with the smaller receiver. This is the same one I've been using with the Advent/3's. Maybe there's something wrong with the 980, although my old Realistic Nova 8's sound very good (at least for Radio Shack) with it. Again, thanks for the advice.

[Guest]

>I read

>somewhere that the original material

>was butyl rubber disolved in

>toluene, but I was never

>able to confirm. I

>have made my own 'goop'

>out of acrylic latex caulk

>cut with water. I

>carefully brush it on the

>surrounds to fill the 'pores'.

> I picked this technique

>up from an old article

>in Speaker Builder mag.

>

>I've also been told that Welbond

>(sp?) white glue cut with

>water also works well for

>this, but I have never

>tried it.

>

>Jim.

Hi Jim,

may I have more details on these techniques? there is a DIY procedure in internet?

I have a couple of 11 years old Celestion SL6S speaker which have the woofer surrond membrane (I suppose in butyl rubber) with one or two sharp radial cuts, and I think is not possible to refoam.

[Guest]

Yes they did sound better when they were new!!. The caps they used were cheap...(The capisitors), are similar to a ni-cad battery. They don't last forever. Go to your local radio shack, and find a cap that is close to what is in there now. No brain sergon needed. Look for the non-polorized type. That means, it does not need to be a positive on one side and or, negitive on the other.

Virginia

oldtubesound@copper.net