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Ar-2ax re-veneer?


Guest filedog

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Guest filedog

I have a pair of 2axs, in pretty good shape. Just got 'em, they're 259,xxx made in june of '74. Woofers refoamed, all original drivers, pots even sound pretty good, but I'm gonna clean 'em, and replace the caps. Grills are nice, only one badge though (plastic kind) may spring for a new pair of the brass ones. So, open 'em up, replace caps, clean pots and reseal drivers.

The cabinets however are covered in vinyl veneer. A few small chips missing. I can't decide if I should try to patch the veneer (some type of filler to level the surface, and paint) or go for a re-veneer with wood. I've never tried it before, read what I can find, but it seems like a major project. The cabs overall, do not look bad, but they sure would be nice in real walnut! I love the speakers, will definitely keep them, but, I'm just not sure about the amount of time required, and how they would come out.

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Guest filedog

Speedracer, yeah, I'd like wood too, but if it doesn't come out better than they are now, I am out $ and time. Have you ever re-veneered speakers? I was kind of hoping someone could give me some feedback on how hard it was and how it went.

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Hey filedog

I have done exactly what you propose, but on a smaller scale. I took a KLH 21 FM radio--the later kind with vinyl cladding. The vinyl was shot and the particle board was chipped. I stripped off the vinyl, filled the chips and sanded it. Then applied the veneer. Attached are before & after pics. I like the "after" better ;-)

You have to use contact cement and you only get ONE chance. Directions are included. Do a Google search if you want to get directions before you buy. Here are a couple:

http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/veneer.htm

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ww_materials...2276965,00.html

Some years ago I re-veneered a VMPS sub but that was just the top panel. Used IRON-ON veneer. Not bad and maybe easier. You will have to deal with the face "frame" of the speaker. Iron-on veneer also comes in 2/4" wide rolls for shelf edging, so that may work well. Or if you want to get fancy, get some 1/2" thick solid walnut and make a nice front frame.

One warning about modern veneers: They are VERY VERY thin. Don't expect to be able to sand them.

Here is one source, but there are others:

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/search.exe

Good luck!

Kent

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Thanks Vern. Had to make a new grille, too. Black grille cloth stretched over 1/4" Masonite. The old foam grilles on these just crumbled away (sort of like foam speaker surrounds)

Kent

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Suggest you also look at Woodworker's Supply @ www.woodworker.com.

They have a good selection of veneers and veneering supplies and tools. I re-did the top of an AR3a cab and it came out quite nice. I used the plain, contact cement type and cut the piece slightly oversize so I wouldn't have to be exact when applying it to the surface. With contact cement you don't get a second chance to re-position.

After using a J-roller to flatten and ensure a complete bond and drying, I carefully trimmed the edge with a razor knife.

It's all about the music

Carl

Carl's Custom Loudspeakers

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Guest filedog

Kent, I've been browsing your page, and I saw woodmiser.com Excellent! I have read a lot of instructions, what's confusing is:

some recommend contact cement,others say it will fail, that it's better to use titebond and let it dry, then iron on.

Some say use paperback veneer, others say avoid it if you will be using an oil finish (I will). Your feedback is appreciated!

Carl, I have woodworkers supply a few minutes from here, so I can get supplies there, and ask questions.

I think I will use contact mainly because of the area surrounding the grill, ie where the grill touches the veneer. This inside area would be very hard to do with an iron!

As far as the work goes, I was planning to remove all drivers before veneering, but the tweeter wires go to another plate which does not look removable. Any tips?

I am going to order Solens from Parts express, the closest I can get is 3.9 and 6.2 uf. Others have mentioned this combo, is this a good choice for a low-priced recap? Thanks!

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Filedog,

I'm no expert. I think you want the paper backed, otherwise you have to deal with flattening and piecing the veneer. The paper-backed is much easier to work with. Don't know about problems with oil finishes. Maybe email the people at woodworkers supply, or even ask in the store (assuming their guys are more knowledgeable than the guys at Home Depot)

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