What drivers for AR-2 (Heathkit AS-2)

[JKent]

Hi

I just bought some empty Heathkit AS-2 cabinets on ebay (not sure why--it was a local pickup and thought it would be fun ). I believe these are identical to the AR-2 (not a or ax). I’ll be watching ebay for drivers, but would appreciate any advice. Can I use any vintage AR 10” woofer or do I have to get a specific model? I also notice the tweets and mids were mounted in a rectangular frame. If I find the drivers but not the frames, can I just fabricate something out of plywood? I’ll clean the pots and replace the caps (hope the values are marked on them). The induction coil should be left alone, I assume (?). Thanks for any advice.

Kent

[dynaco_dan]

>Hi

>I just bought some empty Heathkit AS-2 cabinets on ebay (not

>sure why--it was a local pickup and thought it would be fun

>). I believe these are identical to the AR-2 (not a or ax).

>I’ll be watching ebay for drivers, but would appreciate any

>advice. Can I use any vintage AR 10” woofer or do I have to

>get a specific model? I also notice the tweets and mids were

>mounted in a rectangular frame. If I find the drivers but not

>the frames, can I just fabricate something out of plywood?

>I’ll clean the pots and replace the caps (hope the values are

>marked on them). The induction coil should be left alone, I

>assume (?). Thanks for any advice.

>Kent

>

Hi Kent;

I was watching them too.

They are the equivalent to an AR-2 speaker system.

They used the aluminum framed cloth surround 10" woofer and dual tweeter array in a cast plastic housing.

The crossover point is 2k, Heath literature incorrectly stated 1khz, and the pot inside is not the later heavy duty type.

Look at my previous write-up about my AR-2/AS-2 speaker system.

Spend some time cleaning out the inside of insulation, not replacing, and then re-glung all of the cabinet seams on the inside.

Since I started buying the tweeters last year, they have more than doubled in price by Korean purchases.

The same cabinet can be up-graded to AR-2X status with either the 3 1/2" or 2 1/2" tweeter and cap change out.

A plywood adapter plate will fill the hole with the newer tweeter.

I'm not certain about the coil change out for newer tweeters.

Of 15 tweeters I've received, only 2 have survived the poor packaging or being burnt out before packaging, be very careful there.

[JKent]

thanks Vern

I thought it was a dual-tweeter, but somewhere in the library I got the impression it had a mid and a tweet. I'll check your previous post.

regards

Kent

[JKent]

>The same cabinet can be up-graded to AR-2X status with either

>the 3 1/2" or 2 1/2" tweeter and cap change out.

Hi again Vern

Just picked them up and they are pretty nice. Not the 7-ply cabinets you have but nice 5-ply. I "think" they are birch stained to a walnut color. Not mahogany and I believe that was the only other choice available.

I think I'll go the upgrade route. Apparently there were issues with AR2s, which is why AR went to the 2a and 2ax. I happen to have a pair of 2ax crossovers in my junk-I mean parts-box. I'll get new caps, clean the pots, and install drivers of the 2ax variety IF I can find some. The pot in the Heathkit box is not the familiar Pollak type. Wonder if it can be salvaged for use with the AR 4s that are awaiting refurb. The coil is different, too.

Of course, then there's the question of what to do with another set of speakers.... ;-)

Kent

[dynaco_dan]

>>The same cabinet can be up-graded to AR-2X status with

>either

>>the 3 1/2" or 2 1/2" tweeter and cap change

>out.

>

>Hi again Vern

>Just picked them up and they are pretty nice. Not the 7-ply

>cabinets you have but nice 5-ply. I "think" they are

>birch stained to a walnut color. Not mahogany and I believe

>that was the only other choice available.

>I think I'll go the upgrade route. Apparently there were

>issues with AR2s, which is why AR went to the 2a and 2ax. I

>happen to have a pair of 2ax crossovers in my junk-I mean

>parts-box. I'll get new caps, clean the pots, and

install>drivers of the 2ax variety IF I can find some.

Not sure what you were referring to here?

Unless you were thinking of using the 3 1/2" cone driver as the mid/tweeter such as an early AR-2X.

The pot in the

>Heathkit box is not the familiar Pollak type.

Clarostat 4 watt 10 ohm.

Wonder if it can

>be salvaged for use with the AR 4s that are awaiting refurb.

No

>The coil is different, too.

>Of course, then there's the question of what to do with

>another set of speakers.... ;-)

>Kent

Never a problem with any other member on this site, there is always room.

Hi Kent;

As far as the pot is concerned, I would either use it as is, assuming it works and works freely, or not use it at all.

I wrote on that other write-up, the pot is a 4 watt 10 ohm Clarostat pot, un-like the later Aetna-Pollock 15 ohm 25 watt pot, which still had it's heat problems but did at least have a back heat shield.

The Clarostat also is multi-coiled copper coil, not resista wire.

Worked satisfactorily with the AS-2/AR-2 speaker system as long as it didn't burn out, or jam up, but was seriously under-rated for the job.

If it is sticky you are wasting all your effort for nothing, as I see it.

Replace it only if defective, not just because you want to, unless you have them on hand.

You will see that it is not exactly wired in as a normal pot would be, there is no pot lead back to ground.

The cabinets were not of AR's higher standards.

Heath suggested re-glueing the cabinet seams.

The cabinets are finished only on 3 sides, the labels on the rear are read correct side up, making the bottom the un-finished surface.

Supposedly the crossover plate is glued and carpet tacked onto the rear of the enclosure.

When you think about it, with the dual cone tweeters and the cabinets right side up the tweeters are both on one side, not left and right or both inward.

The only issue with the AS-2/AR-2 was they were made for a certain dollar to provide as much as possible in sound value.

From anything I've read, the AR-2/AS-2 ran circles around most, if not all, equivalent priced speakers and even some much more expensive ones in those days, 40 plus years ago.

The AR-2A added the 1 3/8" tweeter for improved highend output.

The AR-2X changed the dual tweeters to a 3 1/2" cone tweeter and later to the AR-4X 2 1/2" cone tweeter.

[JKent]

> install>drivers of the 2ax variety IF I can find some.

>

>Not sure what you were referring to here?

I mean, there are NO drivers in this box, so why not install AR 2ax drivers, if they were the "best" of that series.

>The cabinets were not of AR's higher standards.

hmm...looked pretty nice to me, but I'll take a closer look

>Heath suggested re-glueing the cabinet seams.

OK

>The cabinets are finished only on 3 sides, the labels on the

>rear are read correct side up, making the bottom the

>un-finished surface.

mine are finished on all 4 sides

>Supposedly the crossover plate is glued and carpet tacked onto

>the rear of the enclosure.

Yup--here's a pic

>The AR-2A added the 1 3/8" tweeter for improved highend

>output.

>The AR-2X changed the dual tweeters to a 3 1/2" cone

>tweeter and later to the AR-4X 2 1/2" cone tweeter.

interesting stuff Vern, thanks. As mentioned, I have a pair of 2ax xovers, so I'll just pull the Heathkits, plate and all, and drop in the ARs (with new caps). So I want to be sure to use the correct woof, mid & tweet for AR2ax. I'll have to fabricate a plate to fill the rectangular hole where the tweeter array was. Could be fun.

Kent

[Guest matty g]

Kent

Could you please post a photo of the AS-2? I've never seen one and always wondered about them. Were they a kit speaker that the buyer assembled like the other Heathkit stuff? Also I've got a pair of woofers and the plastic housings for the old dual midrange setup if you're interested - they are from my good old AR2a's.

Take Care

Matt

[JKent]

Matt,

Check this thread (below). Near the bottom Vern (aka Dynaco Dan) has two posts, about 5 pics of his Heathkits. Mine are just empty boxes.

Thanks for the offer of the drivers--I'll email you for particulars

Kent

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/dc/dcbo...ing_type=search

[dynaco_dan]

>> install>drivers of the 2ax variety IF I can find

>some.

>>

>>Not sure what you were referring to here?

>

>I mean, there are NO drivers in this box, so why not install

>AR 2ax drivers, if they were the "best" of that

>series.

The cabinet is arranged, as is, for the dual tweeter setup or can be converted with a wood insert with single tweeter mounted. The 2AX has two separate holes on either side.

>>The cabinets were not of AR's higher standards.

Heath's cabinet supplier did not glue the cabinets together.

>hmm...looked pretty nice to me, but I'll take a closer look

>

>

>>Heath suggested re-glueing the cabinet seams.

>

>OK

The Heath AS-2 assembly manual advices to glue the seams.

>

>>The cabinets are finished only on 3 sides, the labels on

>the

>>rear are read correct side up, making the bottom the

>>un-finished surface.

>

>mine are finished on all 4 sides

>

>>Supposedly the crossover plate is glued and carpet tacked

>onto

>>the rear of the enclosure.

>

>Yup--here's a pic

>

>>The AR-2A added the 1 3/8" tweeter for improved

>highend

>>output.

>

>>The AR-2X changed the dual tweeters to a 3 1/2" cone

>>tweeter and later to the AR-4X 2 1/2" cone tweeter.

>

>interesting stuff Vern, thanks. As mentioned, I have a pair of

>2ax xovers, so I'll just pull the Heathkits, plate and all,

>and drop in the ARs (with new caps). So I want to be sure to

>use the correct woof, mid & tweet for AR2ax. I'll have to

>fabricate a plate to fill the rectangular hole where the

>tweeter array was. Could be fun.

>Kent

>