Help! Upgraded pots in AR 2x not working.

[Guest mrsimontibbs]

I'm new to AR speakers and just picked up a pair of 2x from a thrift store for $10. The tweeters didn't work so I decided to upgrade the pots, as online sites recommend. I bought a pair locally salvaged from some 2ax, and they were wired together but identical. These are new after-market ones, not OEM, similar to ones I've seen on eBay. (Maybe L-pad types? I'm not sure). I soldered them in, logically following the yellow/green wire arrangement. But now the tweeters still don't work.

I'm a newbie. Could I have attached the wrong wire to the wrong post? The longer post I put to yellow, the shorter post that says '2' got two longer wires (light green/dark green) and the second shorter post got the short green wire. Like I said, this seems to match the original arrangement.

If you're interested, I've attached a jpg of the ORIGINAL pots and wires. If needed, I could post a pic of the new pots.

Your thoughts would be appreciated. I'm up at 2:30 a.m. wrestling with these things. Thanks!

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/dc/user_files/1627.jpg

[JKent]

Hi Mr Tibbs

Yes--I'm thinking you wired them wrong. I bought some replacement L-pads from Vintage AR, and for those, original terminal B = new terminal 2, original 1 = new 3 and original 2 = new 1. Hope this helps. You can also check your new controls with a digital multimeter. btw--you may want to clean up the original pots and reinstall them. Search the forum for how-to info. It's pretty easy.

Kent

PS

>>I'm new to AR speakers and just picked up a pair of 2x from a thrift store for $10

Welcome! You lucky dog! Those are GREAT speakers and 10 bux is a steal! How are the woofer surrounds, walnut veneer, grille cloth, logos? If any need attention (as mine did) you'll find lots of help here

-K

[onplane]

Ted,

The first step in figuring out what’s NOT working is to return to the original setup (you are going to hate me). The only way to perform the next test, however, is with the original pot that is shown in your picture.

Now solder the blue and both green wires EXACTLY as they were originally (check your pic to make sure it’s correct). Now (here is where we differ from original), solder the yellow wire to the terminal that has ONLY a single green wire (top of the pot).

Ted, this mod is equivalent to setting the pot to MAXIMUM INCREASE except we are by passing the wiper on the pot which is most likely heavily corroded.

Now, connect your amp as you would normally and make sure there is a jumper between T and 2 on the speaker terminals. (If there is no jumper, this is why you will NOT hear the tweeter. No signal is going to it.)

Turn the volume full off and turn on your amp. Sloooowly increase the volume and you should hear your tweeter if it’s working.

Do these tests and let us know what you hear. If you still hear no sound, then we have some additional tests to do.

Regards,

Jerry

[JKent]

>

>Now, connect your amp as you would normally and make sure

>there is a jumper between T and 2 on the speaker terminals.

>(If there is no jumper, this is why you will NOT hear the

>tweeter. No signal is going to it.)

Good point--I forgot about the jumper wire. Wouldn't it be frustrating to learn that's the problem?!?!

One suggestion--unless you are better at soldering than I, and like to solder and de-solder, you might consider using stakon crimp connectors. It will make it easier to switch pots (assuming they have the same size lugs). I'm attaching a pic of my completed xover, using crimp connectors, new caps and cleaned-up original pots.

Good luck

Kent

[Guest Chartliner]

I have a pair of AR2X's , one of the pots was not working at all, so I just took it apart and sanded the contacts, now it is good. I also put new surround foams on the woofers. They sound pretty good, I am not sure if replacing the pink capacitors is needed, I see that some people do that on this site.

These speakers have a pretty large sound for their size, but perhaps not as bright as some newer designs I have heard. They also require a fair bit of power to get them to pump out fuller sound compared to the open port type of speaker, if I use them with some other Sansui open ports that I have I will need to use a volume control knob for the Sansui's - to limit the current going to them - so that they don't over power the AR's. The open port speaker seems to be the dominant design these days.

Russ