Jump to content

Checking surronds on AR9 LSi


onplane

Recommended Posts

Once again that pair of AR9 LSi's is on eBay again:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

From the pics, the surrounds look in great shape, but ... but

How would you check the 10" down firing woofer? Further, if there was a problem, how would you physically get at the 10" woofer? (This reminds me of those transverse mounted V6's where it's just about impossible to get at the 3 far spark plugs.)

Looks like you can't easily bi-amp these speakers either (like you can the 3a's). Is this correct?

Lastly, what holds the cloth covers? Are they on plastic frames, like the TSW series? I've got to say, those plastic frames and kids don't go together well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, I just refurbed a pair of 9ls's and upgraded to LSi crossover. The 10" drivers can be accessed and removed after removing the front firing woofer. There are four nuts attached to threaders that are easily removed. The foam on the 12" and 8" drivers was visibly deteriorated. The foam on the 10", while intact, was soft and ready to disintegrate. I refoamed the 12", 10" and 8" drivers and also replaced the grill cloth and did a light refinish. The grill cloth was a bit of a job. I don't know if the LSi's cloth frame was different than the 9ls's. Judging from pictures, I suspect not. I had to remove a red plastic trim strip that was attached with tiny brads that went into the grill frame. The frame itself has deep plastic sides and top. Parts express brown grill cloth is an almost exact match to the original cloth. The original cloth had no folds and was stretched entirely across the frame. They must have wasted a good amount of cloth to achieve this. I had to use folds on the edges of the frame but they came out nicely anyway.

Also, the foam in the chamber at the bottom of the speaker will probably have to be replaced. It is also available from Parts Express.

Let me know if you have any other questions. The speakers sound great and have incredible bass and throw a huge image.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just tried it on mine to confirm if the mirror/flashlight will work and it does, though you will only be able to see if it has already cracked or rotted. However, even if the surround appears to be intact, you will not be able to judge the condition completely. It may be in slightly better condition than the front firing drivers from being in a more protected environment. If the surrounds on the front firing are drivers are bad you can probably count on the down-firing driver being bad too. I have a pair of new old stock AR2x's that were never used and the surrounds looked good but cracked on the first heavy bass note. Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, Dave, that is good news. I mean, if the surrounds aren't cracked, I doubt they'll be leaking much. Being able to check without having to disassemble, sure makes life easier.

How about bi-amping? (I bi-amped my 3a's earlier this week and achieved a significant improvement in clarity, imaging and transient response.)

How difficult would it be to bi-amp 9ls's?

There are lot of theories on why bi-amping works. I don't think anyone really knows for sure. Some of today's top of line units have "powered" sub-woofers built-in:

http://www.cambridgesoundworks.com/store/c...&item=k1t50zzzz

It's my opinion that every speaker will perform better, if you can "electronically isolate" the low frequency drivers from the rest.

These AR9's are in a class by themselves and we really ought to "free" them perform to their potential.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

>Well, Dave, that is good news. I mean, if the surrounds

>aren't cracked, I doubt they'll be leaking much. Being able

>to check without having to disassemble, sure makes life

>easier.

>

>How about bi-amping? (I bi-amped my 3a's earlier this week

>and achieved a significant improvement in clarity, imaging and

>transient response.)

>

>How difficult would it be to bi-amp 9ls's?

>

>There are lot of theories on why bi-amping works. I don't

>think anyone really knows for sure. Some of today's top of

>line units have "powered" sub-woofers built-in:

>

>http://www.cambridgesoundworks.com/store/c...&item=k1t50zzzz

>

>It's my opinion that every speaker will perform better, if you

>can "electronically isolate" the low frequency

>drivers from the rest.

>

>These AR9's are in a class by themselves and we really ought

>to "free" them perform to their potential.

The 9ls have only a single set of speaker connections so no biamping on that one. I'm assuming the 9lsi are the same configuration. Just find a powerful enough amp. I use a Hafler P505 (professional version of DH500 that delivers 400wpc into 4 ohms. I have biamped other speakers and liked the results. Are you near Delaware where the one pair on ebay now reside? I may be letting my 9ls's go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave, we live in Upstate NY, so we’re quit away from Delaware. In addition, to the high shipping cost, the bids are getting up there.

As I'm sure you are aware all of these AR9's have a terribly low WAF. I'm working on her, but so far she's NOT budging. Her argument is that I have AR3a's, TSW610's, an AR sub-woofer and some JBL's.

Alas, she just doesn't understand.

In any event, Dave, I have the brochures for both the LS and the LSi, but I'll be darned if I can figure out the difference. Is it just in the xovers?

Regards,

Jerry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jerry,

The only difference between the ls and lsi are two resistors in the crossover. I installed them at the drivers so I could remove them if I wanted to return my speakers to stock. The difference is not subtle. The midrange is much smoother.

As for my wife, when I brought my speakers home I told her, "Hey, I could be down at the tappy havin' a cold one!" She said "They look like coffins, I hate them." They did look like coffins when my son and I carried them in!

The 9ls(i)'s are now doing front home theater duty, no subwoofer necessary.

That auction is sure going up. If and when I sell mine I'm looking for around $450.00

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...