Guest Eunomians Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 I was wondering if my AR3a's would be a good match with a Sansui G-9000DB that I have been eyeing. Yes, I am afraid to blow up my AR3a's - this is the reason for me asking, since right now I've got 'em hooked up to a modest Philips TR-900 Series reveiver. Would the G-9000DB be a good choice? Too much power? I'd like to crank up the AR3a's (but obviously not play 'em at Ted Nugent levels).Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynaco_dan Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 >I was wondering if my AR3a's would be a good match with a>Sansui G-9000DB that I have been eyeing. Yes, I am afraid to>blow up my AR3a's - this is the reason for me asking, since>right now I've got 'em hooked up to a modest Philips TR-900>Series reveiver. Would the G-9000DB be a good choice? Too>much power? I'd like to crank up the AR3a's (but obviously>not play 'em at Ted Nugent levels).>>CheersHi there;What are the spec's for the amplifier you've been eyeing?We will need to know the maximum output at 2 - 40 ohms 20 - 20,000 hz.Usually 4, 8 and 16 ohms are specified.Consider using fuses, irregardless, of the amps output.You would probaby do more damage with a 25 watt per channel amp than not.If you find that you are running at 60% volume or much more consider fusing.Your drivers are worth much more than a two bit fuse.Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Eunomians Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 Ahh yes, I do indeed need to fuse the speakers. This is my next mini project...Here is more detailed info regarding the Sansui G-9000DB:Power Output: Min. RMS, both channels driven, from 20 to 20,000 Hz, with no more than 0.03% total harmonic distortion 160 watts per channel into 8 ohms 160 watts per channel into 4 ohmsLoad Impedance: 4 and 8 ohmsTotal Harmonistic Distortion (power amp in): less than 0.03% at or below rated min. RMS power outputIntermodulation Distortion (70Hz : 7kHz = 4:1 SMPTE method): less than 0.03% at or below rate min. RMS power outputFrequency Response (at 1 watt): OVERALL 5 to 50,000HZ +0.2db - 1.5db, Power amp in DC to 200kHz, +0db, -3.0dbDamping Factor 20Hz to 20kHz, both channel driven): 60 into 8 ohmsThanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tysontom Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 >I was wondering if my AR3a's would be a good match with a>Sansui G-9000DB that I have been eyeing. Yes, I am afraid to>blow up my AR3a's - this is the reason for me asking, since>right now I've got 'em hooked up to a modest Philips TR-900>Series reveiver. Would the G-9000DB be a good choice? Too>much power? I'd like to crank up the AR3a's (but obviously>not play 'em at Ted Nugent levels).>>CheersEunomions, the AR-3a can handle a lot more power than the Sansui G-9000DB can provide, so fear not that you might have *too* much power and will "blow up" your AR-3as. You will "clip" and distort the G-9000DB's output long before the AR-3a "gives up," on normal musical program material, but "power-handling" capability is a confusing term. For example, you could take a 12-watt amplifier and do serious damage to the AR-3a if you were doing sine-wave testing or if you playing music with excessive high-frequency content. A clipping 12-watt amplifier will "blow up" an AR-3a's 3/4-inch tweeter pretty quickly. Yet, when playing "normal" acoustic music -- such as classical or jazz -- you are unlikely to damage these speakers at any *normal* listening level -- even with high-powered amplifiers. I used my pair of AR-3as in a large room with a McIntosh MC2500 for several years, and ocassionally I saw peaks of 200-300 watts, the sound was clean and I never once burned out a tweeter or "blew a woofer." The music was usually classical or jazz, and that makes a difference. On the other hand, if you like to "crank them up," you might want to get a set of horn speakers or pro speakers that are designed to be played at very high levels -- this way you could stop worrying about damaging the speakers and concentrate on saving your hearing. On the other hand, lightning will damage an AR-3a:http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/dc/user_files/1381.jpgAR-3a struck by lightning. Fire developed in fiberglass. --Tom Tyson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Eunomians Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 I am most intrigued with the AR3a lightning fodder!Thank you for the replies. I am happy to hear the good news regarding real-life power handling. I am not one to crank volumes up to late 70s summertime Uptown Harlem DJ block parties in the park type-levels, but I am glad to know that I can, in essence, if so inclined. 80% of the time it is jazz that bumps via my AR3a's anyhow.Best regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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