Anthonyv62 Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 (edited) Been a longtime visitor and occasional participant going back to 2002-2003. Haven't posted much over the years because I've ALWAYS found answers to my questions elsewhere on this website and the informative discussions. Looking at AR-4X wiring diagrams, and countless photos of their crossovers, the yellow (+) tweeter wire soldered to pot terminal B and dark green capacitor and green tweeter wires to pot terminal 2 seems to be the most common. My speakers (serial # FX74042, FX74072) have that yellow tweeter wire and dark green capacitor wires going to pot terminal 2 with the green tweeter wire soldered to terminal B. After restoring the cabinets I'm ready to hit the crossovers by replacing the badly corroded original potentiometers with correct L-pads and new Dayton capacitors. Is it better to wire the crossover according to AR-4X wiring schematics or wire them like my originals? Happy Holidays! Edited December 21, 2021 by Anthonyv62 correct a possible mistake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyC Posted December 22, 2021 Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 I recommend staying with the wiring in your cabinets. AR polarity is always an adventure. Roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthonyv62 Posted December 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 Thanks for the advice, RoyC. That's pretty much what I was thinking as well. They always sounded good so I'll stick with the original wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgb02 Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 I have managed to thoroughly confuse myself with the correct L-Pad wiring (with resistor). Yes, I'm somewhat of a novice, but fairly capable, and do better with pics than schematics. After re-gluing the detached tweeter cones, I was all ready to go, with parts in hand, photos from other restorations, and some understanding (so I thought) of what goes where. Once I dug in to get the cap, resistor, and L-Pad in place, I realized most of what I had referenced online had the green wire connected to the "B" terminal on the original pot. Mine have the yellow tweeter wire connected to the "B" terminal and the green tweeter wire connected to the "2" terminal along with the green wire from the original cap. The blue wire from the cap is connected to the positive input. I have already set up the L-Pad wiring as seen in a photo posted by JKent, i believe, with the resistor connected to yel/grn wires with disconnects, so I still have some flexibility to get this right without too much difficulty. However the wiring on the original pot does not match mine. I'm making some edits to my post as I sort this out. Based on the side-by-side pic and L-Pad instruction diagram, it seems that for me, the cap should be on tab 3 of the L-Pad and the yellow wire should be on tab 2 of the L-Pad. So, basically just flipping the yellow and green wires as shown in the first pic.Are the tweeters marked for polarity? I haven't one of them to look. Does the "B" terminal on the original pot represent + polarity? I'd be grateful if anyone can correctly confirm which L-Pad pins get which wires! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyC Posted December 31, 2023 Report Share Posted December 31, 2023 I provided the photo to Kent (and others), but it shows the wires of the AR-3a mid, not the 4x tweeter. The numbering of the terminals is the important part. Disregard the wire colors. It is meant to illustrate the corresponding numbers of the original pot relative to a modern L-pad. Simply connect your 4x wire formerly soldered to #1 pot terminal to #3 L-pad terminal, etc. Roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgb02 Posted December 31, 2023 Report Share Posted December 31, 2023 Much appreciated! Thanks to you and others for sharing all of the information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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