Jump to content

Can't see AR drawing files


dna

Recommended Posts

I used to be able to see them, now I can't, I've been using Firefox for a long time never had any problem.

The info I'm looking for is the resistors and capacitors (type and polarity) used in the crossovers in AR 58s and AR 17.

If anyone has a source for these parts that would just be icing on the cake!

TIA

dna

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks you guys! It's nice to see this site isn't a ghost town! Does anyone know where I can get caps for my 17s and 58b? I know I can paralle 2 caps to get the value I want but WHERE?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So how far off can I be from the 6 mfd 50 volts axial electrolytic capacitor? Does it have to be audio grade, axial, what should it be made of? What happens if you use a 6mfd /100 volt capacitor?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, dna said:

So how far off can I be from the 6 mfd 50 volts axial electrolytic capacitor? Does it have to be audio grade, axial, what should it be made of? What happens if you use a 6mfd /100 volt capacitor?

You should get as close as possible to the capacitance. I’d try to stay within 5%. Axial or radial but virtually all speaker caps are axial. DC voltage should be equal to or greater than original. 100 vdc is fine but so is 250, 400, 600. 
As dxho said Parts Express is a good source. So is erseaudio.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, dna said:

So how far off can I be from the 6 mfd 50 volts axial electrolytic capacitor? Does it have to be audio grade, axial, what should it be made of? What happens if you use a 6mfd /100 volt capacitor?

Some brands make 6mfd caps. I have a pair of Erse poly film caps 6mfd (uF). PM me if you're interested. I have a number of caps in various sizes.

FYI: many of the older caps AR used are marked with the AC voltage vs todays caps that are generally rated in DC, or have both the AC and DC voltage in some cases. 100VDC does NOT = 100VAC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Parts connection has no 3 or 6mF capacitors that I could find, near as I can tell no one has a 3mF@50VDC so far as I know. I have seen some with higher voltages but until now I didn't know how high I could go.

That's~!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, JKent said:

DC voltage should be equal to or greater than original. 100 vdc is fine but so is 250, 400, 600. 

Parts Connexion does have Solen pb in 3.0 and 6.2. I’m sure there are others but hard to search on my phone. Or Try Erse or PE

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't read any markings on the resistors do you know the value on them? I know resistors are rated in Ohms and watts....

5 hours ago, DavidR said:

If you're going to change those old sandcast resistors I suggest Mills resistors.

A good source is Parts Connxtion>>>    https://www.partsconnexion.com/mills-mra-12-resistors.html

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, dna said:

I can't read any markings on the resistors

Hi Dna, local 1.08 AM, here is a photo of my AR58S crossover, of one resistor you see the value, the other one fails, a good view of capacitors and coils, now it's too late and tired to go down to the cellar ... I'll go there tomorrow morning, take out the crossover and photograph the second resistor for you!

1583604359_AR26.jpg.34c45e1bddba4e58b4c5df05e5153e6a.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Giorgio AR said:

 

 

7 minutes ago, Giorgio AR said:

 

 

7 minutes ago, Giorgio AR said:

Hi Dna, local 1.08 AM, here is a photo of my AR58S crossover, of one resistor you see the value, the other one fails, a good view of capacitors and coils, now it's too late and tired to go down to the cellar ... I'll go there tomorrow morning, take out the crossover and photograph the second resistor for you!

1583604359_AR26.jpg.34c45e1bddba4e58b4c5df05e5153e6a.jpg

17 hours ago, JKent said:

You should get as close as possible to the capacitance. I’d try to stay within 5%. Axial or radial but virtually all speaker caps are axial. DC voltage should be equal to or greater than original. 100 vdc is fine but so is 250, 400, 600. 
As dxho said Parts Express is a good source. So is erseaudio.com

So 5.7 on the minus side and  to 6.3mF on the + side.... Just sayin' .... That's most kind of you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6.2uF is common. So 6.0 or 6.2

btw resistors don’t go bad. No need to replace

back to an earlier question: yes use audio grade caps. Film for smaller values. You can use non-polarized electrolytics (npe) for large values 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, DavidR said:

Resistors may not go bad unless you overload them but there are affordable resistors that are WAY better sounding; like the Mills.

Well constructed, perhaps, but way better sounding is just internet hype, David. Who has determine this? On the other hand they do taste way better than those nasty sandy ones. :)

Roy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, dna said:

I can't read any markings on the resistors

Dna, I am, we are lucky ... without going down to the cellar, looking for and opening boxes I found in my photo archive a photo (not mine) of another AR58s crossover, you can clearly see the value of both resistors: one is 22w, 2ohm, the other 22w, 1 ohm.
Attached the photo, so we can also compare my AR58s crossover with this one!

336142431_AR27.jpg.5abb002f5eafb101f7341ed80cd3ddc8.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, DavidR said:

I believe it was Steve Hoffman who tested several types of resistors on a scope. If you don't mind noise and distortion introduced into your music then cheaply made resistors work just fine.

There is nothing wrong with properly functioning original sandcast resistors. I repair many speakers on a regular basis, including some of the "highest end" speakers ever marketed, and with very rare exception the crossovers include what you would call "cheaply made" sandcast resistors. "Distortion"? "Noise"? You are talking about lots of zeros after decimal points. Whether it is even audible at all is the stuff of typical internet audio forum debate.

A speaker crossover is a filter comprised entirely of manipulated resistive components (ie. capacitors, inductors, resistors, level controls, etc). I'm not suggesting not to use well-made components when repairing or restoring speakers, but the notion of  a "way better" sounding resistor is simply misleading. Any alleged negative characteristics of a sandcast resistor is literally lost in a sea of resistance. In my experience, the individual resistor is usually the least likely crossover component requiring replacement. On the other hand, another respected forum member recently reminded me that the placebo effect is a big part of what drives this hobby (and parts marketing), so I'm not disputing that shiny new resistors really do sound better...to you.

Roy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...