carlbarry Posted April 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 8 hours ago, JKent said: Some pots can be rebuilt and some are too far gone. I used L-pads in my 4x's. It was my first restoration. If you want authentic pots the ones from Chris1this1 are worth a try. While you're in there be sure to replace the capacitor. You'll need one 20uF per speaker. Thanks! I'm not looking forward to it. It was tough enough working through the 12" hole of the 3As. Working through the relatively small hole of the 4x, yikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted April 2, 2020 Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 4 hours ago, carlbarry said: Thanks! I'm not looking forward to it. It was tough enough working through the 12" hole of the 3As. Working through the relatively small hole of the 4x, yikes. It's not that bad. The xo is very simple and some of the work can be done outside the box. Cut the leads off the wax capacitor but leave it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Pearce Posted April 2, 2020 Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 On 3/27/2020 at 3:36 PM, carlbarry said: The HiVi option seems very good to me. I used to be able to hear 20 kHz on the test records, but not any more! If that is the solution, I'll do it. Thanks. I would like to know what a good test record is for assessing my hearing please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted April 2, 2020 Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 You can find free tests online. You need to use headphones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlbarry Posted April 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 2 hours ago, Jim Pearce said: I would like to know what a good test record is for assessing my hearing please. I was actually referring to those old "test your stereo system" LPs. If you're registered with 23 and me, they have a hearing test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Pearce Posted May 4, 2020 Report Share Posted May 4, 2020 Then those are the things that I will do! Thanks, guys...good to be back in the world again, 'eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlbarry Posted June 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 On 3/30/2020 at 8:03 PM, JKent said: Pretty much drop-in. You just put a 0.05mH coil on the back of the tweeter. I just received my HiVi Q1R. The holes on it don't match up with the holes in the cabinet. Nor are they big enough for the screws. Should I drill new holes, or try enlarging the existing holes? I don't think enlarging the holes will work, as the diameter of the mount is smaller than the original. And another little catch: the coil's leads are very short, so I will have to solder on extensions to be able to mount on the rear. I thought I could mount it alongside the terminals, but I don't think it would then fit in the hole. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aadams Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 7 hours ago, carlbarry said: The holes on it don't match up with the holes in the cabinet. Nor are they big enough for the screws. Should I drill new holes, or try enlarging the existing holes? I don't think enlarging the holes will work, as the diameter of the mount is smaller than the original. CarlBarry Use this thread as a guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlbarry Posted June 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 On 6/12/2020 at 10:54 PM, Aadams said: CarlBarry Use this thread as a guide Thanks. But the thread doesn't address my issues. I think I will make a clear plastic template from the hole in the AR 3A with the tweeter removed, mark where the screw holes are in the cabinet, and then place it on the new tweeter and see if I can drill out the existing holes. Funny thing about the gasket that came with the tweeter: the holes in the gasket line up with the holes in the tweeter, but the notch for the terminals don't line up with the terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyC Posted June 14, 2020 Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 1 hour ago, carlbarry said: Thanks. But the thread doesn't address my issues. I think I will make a clear plastic template from the hole in the AR 3A with the tweeter removed, mark where the screw holes are in the cabinet, and then place it on the new tweeter and see if I can drill out the existing holes. Funny thing about the gasket that came with the tweeter: the holes in the gasket line up with the holes in the tweeter, but the notch for the terminals don't line up with the terminals. It can be done. See photos in this listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACOUSTIC-RESEARCH-AR-3A-TWEETER-REPLACEMENT-FRONT-WIRED-CONFIGURATION/192876357048?hash=item2ce853a5b8:g:lZgAAOSw5cNYE3fz Alternatively, you can simply use the existing screw holes in the tweeter flange with aggressive thread screws: https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-6-x-3-4-deep-thread-pan-head-screws-black-100-pcs--081-435 Make your own holes in the gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlbarry Posted June 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 7 hours ago, RoyC said: It can be done. See photos in this listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACOUSTIC-RESEARCH-AR-3A-TWEETER-REPLACEMENT-FRONT-WIRED-CONFIGURATION/192876357048?hash=item2ce853a5b8:g:lZgAAOSw5cNYE3fz Alternatively, you can simply use the existing screw holes in the tweeter flange with aggressive thread screws: https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-6-x-3-4-deep-thread-pan-head-screws-black-100-pcs--081-435 Make your own holes in the gasket. Aha, yes, the holes are enlarged. Thanks. My father was a shop teacher, and always said, "Measure twice, cut once." In this case, my feeling was, "Ask people who have already done it, and drill once." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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