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I have a pair of 58s speakers, one tweeter is dead and when the tweeter from the other speaker is connected to the first there is no sound. I was told this could be a capacitor, or  I'm thinking one of those mysterious coils in the cross over. The capacitors are axial electrolytic. They have the values as follows:

All are 50V bi-polar, all are mfd.

4, 8, 24, 40, 100

I don't know if it's true but I was told that when running capacitors in series the value of each increases the capacitance factor by it's rating. For example 3 mfd wired in series with another 3mfd gives you 6mfd. I'm assuming that so long as the voltage is the same for each capacitor that factor doesn't change. If this is true I could put a few together to get the proper capacitance yes?

Maybe some one here knows where I can get the correct capacitors, all the ones I find on the internet are not the same size physically (does that make a difference?) but  as I just need 2 of each some sellers on E-bay offer one of the ones cited but you got to buy a whole lot of them. I have tried Amazon, E-bay, and Google too. Of course, I get hits for everything but the thing I asked for....

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1 hour ago, dna said:

when the tweeter from the other speaker is connected to the first there is no sound

Did the dead tweeter work when you swapped it into the  working tweeter cabinet?

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1 hour ago, dna said:

I have a pair of 58s speakers, one tweeter is dead and when the tweeter from the other speaker is connected to the first there is no sound. I was told this could be a capacitor, or  I'm thinking one of those mysterious coils in the cross over. The capacitors are axial electrolytic. They have the values as follows:

All are 50V bi-polar, all are mfd.

4,8,24,40,100

I don't know if it's true but I was told that when running capacitors in series the value of each increases the capacitance factor by it's rating. For example 3 mfd wired in series with another 3mfd gives you 6mfd. I'm assuming that so long as the voltage is the same for each capacitor that factor doesn't change. If this is true I could put a few together to get the proper capacitance yes?

Maybe some one here knows where I can get the correct capacitors, all the ones I find on the internet are not the same size physically (does that make a difference?) but  as I just need 2 of each some sellers on E-bay offer one of the ones cited but you got to buy a whole of them. I have tried Amazon, E-bay and did a generalsearch in Google too. Of course I get hits for everything but the thing I asked for....

Not series, but parallel. When capacitors are wired in parallel, the capacitance values are added together. You can get 8 uF by wiring two 4 uF caps in parallel. uF is same as mfd (microfarad).

The voltage rating does not matter as long as it is equal to or greater than the original voltage rating. 

It is easy to go down the rabbit hole when recapping speakers depending upon how much you want to spend. It is generally accepted to replace old electrolytic caps with poly caps. I prefer Audyn Q4. Others like Dayton caps. Those two choices are the lowest cost options for non-electrolytic caps. Many suggest using electrolytic caps for the larger sizes in order to keep costs down.

Over the years, capacitor construction has changed, a lot. New poly caps will be a lot larger than old electrolytic caps. Physical size only matters when it comes to figuring out how to install the replacements. If room is limited, caps can be mounted separate from any circuit board, if there is one.

A good source of low cost crossover caps is Parts Express, which is where I get mine.

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13 hours ago, Aadams said:

Did the dead tweeter work when you swapped it into the  working tweeter cabinet?

No, I checked the resistance with my digital VOM and there is no continuity. Currently, there are original replacements on E-bay. The tweeter isn't the real issue, no signal is being sent to the tweeter proof of that is the working tweeter emits no sound when connected.

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On 3/17/2020 at 8:24 PM, RTally said:

Not series, but parallel. When capacitors are wired in parallel, the capacitance values are added together. You can get 8 uF by wiring two 4 uF caps in parallel. uF is same as mfd (microfarad).

The voltage rating does not matter as long as it is equal to or greater than the original voltage rating. 

It is easy to go down the rabbit hole when recapping speakers depending upon how much you want to spend. It is generally accepted to replace old electrolytic caps with poly caps. I prefer Audyn Q4. Others like Dayton caps. Those two choices are the lowest cost options for non-electrolytic caps. Many suggest using electrolytic caps for the larger sizes in order to keep costs down.

Over the years, capacitor construction has changed, a lot. New poly caps will be a lot larger than old electrolytic caps. Physical size only matters when it comes to figuring out how to install the replacements. If room is limited, caps can be mounted separate from any circuit board, if there is one.

A good source of low cost crossover caps is Parts Express, which is where I get mine.

Thank you very much for the info! So the in this case the voltage doesn't matter so long as it's above the rate on the original cap, interesting... Another question: so far as I know capacitance is capacitance regardless of material, axial, radial,  those wafer (flat disks) shaped ones, I mean materials used isn't an issue, it's the value of capacitance and voltage is what the circuit sees right? What function do the coils of copper wire in the crossover perform? What is accepted practice for repair? I suppose it could be hand wrapped so long as the same gauge wire and the amount of turns is the same....

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Good advice from RTally. I would only add that mylar caps like Carli from Madisound or the yellow caps from erseaudio.com are good and are the lowest price. Crossover caps must be non polar aka bi polar (but not manic depressive). Do not use regular electrolytics. Axial or radial doesn’t matter. The disc caps are usually very low values so not those.

The copper coils are inductors. Leave them alone. They don’t go bad. If you do disconnect one be aware that the wire is coated with varnish insulation that mus be sanded or scraped off to make a good connection 

Kent

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The AR58S crossover is the same as the AR91 crossover except without the attentuition switches and resisters. The drivers are definitely the same. The cabinets are different. 

A google search will find you plenty of information about these excellent speakers. Last November I recaped my AR58S speakers. 

These two threads by Darren James and myself maybe helpful to you.

  Also this thread by Briodo may also be of interest.

 

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12 hours ago, JKent said:

Good advice from RTally. I would only add that mylar caps like Carli from Madisound or the yellow caps from erseaudio.com are good and are the lowest price. Crossover caps must be non polar aka bi polar (but not manic depressive). Do not use regular electrolytics. Axial or radial doesn’t matter. The disc caps are usually very low values so not those.

The copper coils are inductors. Leave them alone. They don’t go bad. If you do disconnect one be aware that the wire is coated with varnish insulation that mus be sanded or scraped off to make a good connection 

Kent

Thank you! You guys are most helpful!

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I'm sorry to hear about your speaker issues.  AR58S speakers are great sounding.  I love mine, and I hope you get yours sorted out.

The 4uF cap is for the tweeter.  Easy to find, from multiple sites.  I've used Parts Express, Parts Connexion, Madisound, and Sonic Craft.  All sell high quality capacitors.  And if you recap one tweeter, recap both, to keep them matched.

Good luck!

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On 3/19/2020 at 7:44 PM, Stimpy said:

I'm sorry to hear about your speaker issues.  AR58S speakers are great sounding.  I love mine, and I hope you get yours sorted out.

The 4uF cap is for the tweeter.  Easy to find, from multiple sites.  I've used Parts Express, Parts Connexion, Madisound, and Sonic Craft.  All sell high quality capacitors.  And if you recap one tweeter, recap both, to keep them matched.

Good luck!

Thank you and all the forum members for your invaluable support!

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On 3/17/2020 at 7:41 PM, Aadams said:

Did the dead tweeter work when you swapped it into the  working tweeter cabinet?

No, sadly it is broken! Does anyone one know if they can be repaired and if so could contact information be posted?

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OK. So yes, the tweeter does work when swapped? If so it's good news. Larry said there are no switches in the 58S so the culprit is either a totally shot capacitor or, more likely, an open connection somewhere. Here's the xo drawing Larry provided, cropped and darkened. Hope it helps. Try tracing all the wires to the High Range starting at the bottom of the drawing. Also look at the schematic. The only cap in the tweeter circuit is the 4uF so maybe start by replacing that one and see if you get sound.

Kent

 

AR-58S xo 2.jpg

AR-58sschematic.jpg

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