Adamo0926 Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 Working on a pair of L810s, one speaker needs all the drivers replaced. Found all the replacement drivers from Ebay. The woofers came out easily. But I have no idea how to get the mid-range driver out of the cabinet. There are 4 screws around the perimeter of the faceplate and 4 screws right around the dome. It seems those 4 inner screws around the dome are the screws that hold the magnet in place. So I would think removing the 4 screws around the perimeter would allow for the faceplate to come off with the dome and magnet intact. But the faceplate does not want to budge. I don't want to force it because I don't want to chip the baffle. Obviously since the driver is shot if that were to get damaged no big deal. Can someone tell me if there is some trick to getting the mid out of the cabinet ? I haven't even tried taking out the tweeter yet. Is the faceplate also glued on as well as screwed on ? I'm at a loss. Thanks for any help you can give me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamo0926 Posted July 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 Figured it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofer-01 Posted March 14, 2020 Report Share Posted March 14, 2020 So what did you do? Just curious... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greyeyezz Posted July 22, 2020 Report Share Posted July 22, 2020 Yes please share it could help others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briodo Posted September 19, 2020 Report Share Posted September 19, 2020 I've had to do this on a pair of Acoustic Research AR2AX and ADS L570/2 tweeters. The AR's had black caulk on the tweeters, the LS570/2 just used a sticky, foam like seal. I placed a small piece of wood under the back of the tweeter and then placed the scissor jack from my wife's car, into the speaker cabinet under the wood. Slowly and gently turning the screw brought the jack up to the wood and broke the seal between the cabinet and tweeter. Once a corner started to move, I was able to remove the tweeter with my hands. Take it slow and make sure you are not pressing on the cabinet for obvious reasons. The jack did not align under the tweeter when I started, since a scissor jack tends to be longer as stored, but slid under the wood as the head of the jack went up. A small bottle jack would work as well and might fit into a tight corner where tweeters are sometimes placed. I have to credit my wife for figuring this one out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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