Scoup Posted June 2, 2019 Report Share Posted June 2, 2019 What a terrible way to mount a crossover!! The LSI uses a circuit board with the resistors on the top side, the inductors around the edges mounted on a melamine board and the capacitors on the bottom side of the circuit board. The binding posts come through the melamine board and are held in place by a nut, the post continues up into the circuit board and is soldered into the circuit board. The caps are glued to the melamine board. Problematic for re-capping. I broke all 4 binding posts because the solder had wicked down the threads. Heavy use of a heat gun and putty knife allowed me to remove the melamine board from the back baffle, and then the circuit board from the melamine board. I was able to shoehorn Solen film caps into their correct spots, with the exception of the 470uf cap. I went with electrolytic for the smaller physical size. A film cap that value would just be too big. I replaced the binding posts but they aren't long enough to reach the circuit board so I'll have to run wires from the binding posts to the circuit board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briodo Posted June 2, 2019 Report Share Posted June 2, 2019 I went through this process on mine as well and tried an alternate method of isolating the caps in place and building an external board with new caps which was wired into place. Not sure there is a great method around the way the crossover is mounted, but an external board allows for future rebuilds without having to touch the original. I included a pdf detailing what I went through in this post: Not pretty, but the speakers still work great. Good luck with your project. The AR9LSi don't get the respect the original AR9's get, but are truly wonderful speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted June 2, 2019 Report Share Posted June 2, 2019 Nice work Brian. The TSW series have the same style PCB and mounting configuration. A real PITA. The 9LSi does sound great and was easier to place in a room vs the AR9. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoup Posted June 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2019 6 hours ago, briodo said: I went through this process on mine as well and tried an alternate method of isolating the caps in place and building an external board with new caps which was wired into place. Not sure there is a great method around the way the crossover is mounted, but an external board allows for future rebuilds without having to touch the original. I included a pdf detailing what I went through in this post: Not pretty, but the speakers still work great. Good luck with your project. The AR9LSi don't get the respect the original AR9's get, but are truly wonderful speakers. Thanks for the info Brian. Would have been a time saver for sure. I already have mine all apart, new caps in place and I'm ready to test to make sure I didn't make any mistakes. Then I'll mount in the cabinets and see if there is any improvement. Not expecting much as all caps metered within 10% but it needed to be done eventually. Once everything is in place and working I'll renew the ferrofluid in the tweeters and mids and everything will be done. I have already re-foamed all drivers and replaced the foam is the bass chambers. Cabs and grills are mint so no need to refinish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoup Posted June 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2019 Once this is done, I'm on to a set of AR2AX with mismatched woofers and then another set of 10pi's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted June 2, 2019 Report Share Posted June 2, 2019 I love my 10Pi speakers. Hooked up to a tube amp. I've never even tried them with an SS amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stimpy Posted June 2, 2019 Report Share Posted June 2, 2019 I didn't know the dual dome plates could be disassembled, in order to refresh the ferrofluid? Is it a difficult process? I've wondered about doing that on my AR90's? But, I'd probably be too apprehensive to try. Regardless, please post some pictures of the finished speakers. Plus, well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AR55 Posted June 3, 2019 Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 I not sure opening up the dual dome assembly is a good idea. The lead wires from the tweeter are not just soldered to the tabs that are screwed into the face plate. They are also glued in place. Removing the cover plate could easily break the leads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BjarneAndersen Posted June 4, 2019 Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoup Posted June 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2019 All done, caps removed metered within 25% and ESR was low, but I am sure they sound much better now. Could just be me though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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