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Re-cappi AR9LSI


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What a terrible way to mount a crossover!! 

The LSI uses a circuit board with the resistors on the top side, the inductors around the edges mounted on a melamine board and the capacitors on the bottom side of the circuit board.  The binding posts come through the melamine board and are held in place by a nut, the post continues up into the circuit board and is soldered into the circuit board.  The caps are glued to the melamine board.  

Problematic for re-capping.  I broke all 4 binding posts because the solder had wicked down the threads.  Heavy use of a heat gun and putty knife allowed me to remove the melamine board from the back baffle, and then the circuit board from the melamine board.  I was able to shoehorn Solen film caps into their correct spots, with the exception of the 470uf cap.  I went with electrolytic for the smaller physical size.  A film cap that value would just be too big.  I replaced the binding posts but they aren't long enough to reach the circuit board so I'll have to run wires from the binding posts to the circuit board.  

 

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I went through this process on mine as well and tried an alternate method of isolating the caps in place and building an external board with new caps which was wired into place.  Not sure there is a great method around the way the crossover is mounted, but an external board allows for future rebuilds without having to touch the original.  I included a pdf detailing what I went through in this post:  

Not pretty, but the speakers still work great.  Good luck with your project.  The AR9LSi don't get the respect the original AR9's get, but are truly wonderful speakers.

 

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6 hours ago, briodo said:

I went through this process on mine as well and tried an alternate method of isolating the caps in place and building an external board with new caps which was wired into place.  Not sure there is a great method around the way the crossover is mounted, but an external board allows for future rebuilds without having to touch the original.  I included a pdf detailing what I went through in this post:  

Not pretty, but the speakers still work great.  Good luck with your project.  The AR9LSi don't get the respect the original AR9's get, but are truly wonderful speakers.

 

Thanks for the info Brian.  Would have been a time saver for sure.  I already have mine all apart, new caps in place and I'm ready to test to make sure I didn't make any mistakes.  Then I'll mount in the cabinets and see if there is any improvement. Not expecting much as all caps metered within 10% but it needed to be done eventually.  Once everything is in place and working I'll renew the ferrofluid in the tweeters and mids and everything will be done.  I have already re-foamed all drivers and replaced the foam is the bass chambers.  Cabs and grills are mint so no need to refinish.  

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I didn't know the dual dome plates could be disassembled, in order to refresh the ferrofluid?  Is it a difficult process?  I've wondered about doing that on my AR90's?  But, I'd probably be too apprehensive to try.  Regardless, please post some pictures of the finished speakers.  Plus, well done!

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I not sure opening up the dual dome assembly is a good idea.  The lead wires from the tweeter are not just soldered to the tabs that are screwed into the face plate.  They are also glued in place.  Removing the cover plate could easily break the leads. 

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