AR5 - Project no.2

[RoyC]

1 hour ago, crumpets said:

Thanks again, that clears it up. I can order the 6uF just in case. I think I can put that together, so I think I'll place the order. Cheers.

The additional 6uf cap refers only to the 3a, not the 5. The original 3a cap is 6uf, and a 6uf cap in series with it results in 3uf. Placing a 6uf cap in series with the AR-5's 4uf cap will result in too little capacitance for the AR-5 tweeter. Just purchase the 4uf AR-5 tweeter cap, and forget about series caps! The vast majority of people I've been in contact with over the years prefer the original cap values when using the HiVi tweeter. A more experienced person can experiment with these things, but it is not something I recommend for your purposes.

Roy

 

[crumpets]

That's great, thanks.

[Aadams]

Crumpets

There is still more info on the HiVi mod.  You might want to copy this search text

 hivi tweeter inductor site: classicspeakerpages.net

and paste it into google.  You'll get all the CSP threads that discuss the topic.

Adams

[crumpets]

Thanks Adams, much appreciated. I've ordered everything. Should be here in a week or so. I'll have a good read over that material in the meantime.  First step will be having a little practice with the soldering iron, then recapping the 6's. Should be interesting.

[crumpets]

Well, my order from PE arrived. I have decided to fit the HiVi tweeter/inductor first to try out in these 5's. Just a quick question re. securing the HiVi tweeter. I hadn't thought about the holes not aligning. When drilling new holes to suit the HiVi tweeter, should I use the same kind of threaded insert to screw into to ensure a firm seal, or would self-tapping wood screws suffice?

[Aadams]

DON'T drill into the wood.  You  can drill out or make slots at the edge of the HIVi plate to use the original screws or use three of he HIVI plate holes offset and equidistant between the original holes and secure with small wood screws.  Study the  pictures on the previous page where both methods are used.  You may need some caulk sealant.  Don't bugger up the original mounting holes and don't subtract any wood because you may need all of it later.

 

[sarals]

I used short wood screws to secure the HiVi tweeters I'm using in my AR-5's.  The screws are arrayed at the 12, 8, and 4 o'clock positions.  There is no need to remove any wood to clear the terminals on the tweeters.  Also, the HiVi tweeters come with a foam gasket.  I used the terminals mounted on the front of the baffle to connect them, running the signal wire through the mounting hole at the 6 o'clock position.  I used some of the "clay" sealer to close up the hole, from behind, after I ran the wire through it.

 

 

 

[crumpets]

Ok, thanks. I'll use short wood screws and keep well clear of original holes. I am replacing replacements that are rear wired, so will stick with that.  Sarals, how have you found the HiVi's in your ar5's? Have you experimented with reversing polarity to the new tweeters with any success?

[crumpets]

Ooops, sorry! I just took another look at your impressions in that thread. Glad to see it worked out for you. I thought I"d get the new tweeters in and have a listen before I tackle the recap. I have some 6's to work on first which should be an easier proposition for a first project.

[sarals]

Just to add to my impressions, the HiVi's are working beautifully in my AR-5's.  I've not changed the polarity on either tweeter, I don't know that I'd hear a difference.  They certainly sound fine the way they are.  I don't know that the AR-5's sounded like with the original tweeters, so no comment on that, but with the HiVi's - they're wonderful.  Absolutely contemporary in their performance.  Good luck with your AR-5's!

[crumpets]

Thanks, sarals. Appreciate you sharing your impressions.

I am part of the way through this ar5 recovery. Tonight, I completed the HiVi mod and installed the new tweeters. I still have the recap to do, maybe tomorrow.

First impressions, without the recap, absolutely rapt with the new tweeters. They have really brought these speakers back to life. I'll post a pic, so happy for any feedback as to whether it looks ok, or not. RoyC, you really nailed it. The old tweeters, even prior to one completely failing, were clearly as you say "compromised".

The sparkle is back, and if the recap makes half the difference it did in the ar6's, well I'll be over the moon. Will report back when the remainder of the work is done.

Btw, ra.ra, the bass seems to be right now that the speakers are more balanced. It seems that the 040-2a woofers will be fine. What a relief! That ar5 mid really is something special.

[crumpets]

Completed the recap today and all went well. I removed the old cap boxes. There was a fair bit of black tar-like stuff around, so all that is clean now. The recap hasn't had quite the impact of the ar6 recap, but there is a significant improvement. Livelier, and the bass is snappier. The HiVi drivers have really done the job. I think I'll replace the gasket that came with it with the cork gasket I've used on the woofer. Will probably do the same with the mids. But that will do, I think. Thanks again to everyone that chipped in with advice, much appreciated.

[Aadams]

1 hour ago, crumpets said:

Will probably do the same with the mids.

Those mids look fine.  Just my two cents but, if they are working and there are no perceivable leaks I wouldn't mess with them. Leave well enough alone.  Finding working mids is more difficult than tweeters.

 

 

Adams

[JKent]

1 hour ago, Aadams said:

if they are working and there are no perceivable leaks I wouldn't mess with them. 

Agree. Those front wires are very delicate and if you break one it's a headache to repair.

[sarals]

@crumpets beautiful work!  I'm with @Aadams, if those mids are working, leave them alone.  And, yes, they are wonderful, wonderful drivers.  Congratulations on your AR-5's!

[ra.ra]

Nice work on some fabulous speakers.

[crumpets]

Thank you for the kind words. I can honestly say I would never have attempted this without all of your help and encouragement. I will take your advice and leave well enough alone.They sound fantastic. Time to just kick back and enjoy them.

[cbolen]

On 2/6/2019 at 1:16 PM, RoyC said:

Given your satisfaction with the AR-18, and the fact that you are using level controls with the same electrical characteristics as the originals, I would stay with the original 4uf cap. It will still sound like an AR-5, and will retain the option to easily go back to the original tweeters if they become available. (Btw, the higher cap value allows a bit more tweeter output.)

@RoyC @JKent

Hey RoyC, and everyone else. RoyC - I’ve been told you are the go-to guy on AR5s. JKent sent me your way… I’m interested in the Hi-Vi tweeter upgrade until I’m able to afford to have my originals rebuilt.

I’m a newb. To posting here, to vintage electronics, to schematics reading… in fact, I have little to know schematics reading abilities… and I’m thoroughly confused. Could you tell me what parts I should purchase to make this tweeter upgrade happen?

AND is there a simple sketch somewhere where I can see how to wire it up?

I will say… I myself have replaced the L pads and crossover caps in these. and I love what I’m hearing so far. But I’ve got a dead tweeter so I’m going down this road now.

I’m mechanically inclined enough to get the job done. I’m just not sure HOW exactly to get the job done. Any guidance would be most appreciated.

Thanks everyone!!

[Emile]

Hello,

I am quite new to retro speakers and just want to connect my AR tweeter to my (very cheap) amplifier. Two speakers have a normal connection, but the tweeter has a type of connection which is unknown to me. 

How schould I connect this speaker to the amp?

I post this in this thread because its the same connection as in shown pictures and i cannot inqert pictures of my own.

 

 

Thanks in advance