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A pair of AR-3 fell into my lap this week


Lucky Pierre

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2 hours ago, Lucky Pierre said:

....should I do anything about the cadmium corrosion ...?

Cadmium? Cobalt? Dunno for sure, but it does look toxic, and my typical effort is to wipe it off with a rag dampened with household white vinegar.

4 hours ago, lARrybody said:

I am thru using these aetna-pollak pots anymore.

Yep, they can be a real PITA. I've watched a number of your impressive restorations, so have you arrived at a conclusive and preferred replacement solution? 

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1 hour ago, ra.ra said:

Cadmium? Cobalt? Dunno for sure, but it does look toxic, and my typical effort is to wipe it off with a rag dampened with household white vinegar.

Yep, they can be a real PITA. I've watched a number of your impressive restorations, so have you arrived at a conclusive and preferred replacement solution? 

I'm pretty sure it is cadmium.  I think the rings around the back side of the woofer are (were) cadmium plated.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I cleaned the pots and recapped yesterday.  These speakers are glorious!

First I tried them on an NAD T748 (100-125 watt at 4 ohm) in analogue bypass mode.  I was completely blown away. Then I tried them on a Marantz T7 preamp and a pair of Webster 30 watt 2A3 monoblocks.  They lost everything that made them sound good.  Muddy, dull, and lifeless.

Tonight I swapped the Websters for a Carver TFM-6cb (rated at 100 watts into 4 ohm).  The first song up was Hendrix's Little Wing.  Just incredible!

I'd love to hear these in a larger room.  I have also decided, based on a year or so of observation, that I don't think I am a tube guy.  Part of the problem is that all of my speakers are not that sensitive.  But I have also found that all of my speakers sound better on the SS NAD, vs. the Websters or my recapped and retubed Dynaco Mk III.  So, I've decided to divest of most of my tube gear.  I have my eye on a Marantz 240 to compliment my T7 pre.

I'll post pictures when I start the cabinet restoration.

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Quick update:

Day 4 with these and I keep thinking that this is the sound I have been looking for.  I picked up the Marantz 240 today, along with a 120B tuner.  I think the journey with this system is over.

I picked up material for repairing the grills yesterday.  I found a post in my research, I think by lakecat, that suggested using electrical tape to attach the grill cloth.  I might try that route rather than glue.  I'll start that next weekend.

I'm really looking forward to the cabinet work, but that will have to wait until spring so I can do the work outdoors.  I'm going to try my hand at spray can lacquer, to keep the finish original.

Pics to come in a few months.

Peter

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1 hour ago, Lucky Pierre said:

Quick update:

Day 4 with these and I keep thinking that this is the sound I have been looking for.  I picked up the Marantz 240 today, along with a 120B tuner.  I think the journey with this system is over.

I picked up material for repairing the grills yesterday.  I found a post in my research, I think by lakecat, that suggested using electrical tape to attach the grill cloth.  I might try that route rather than glue.  I'll start that next weekend.

I'm really looking forward to the cabinet work, but that will have to wait until spring so I can do the work outdoors.  I'm going to try my hand at spray can lacquer, to keep the finish original.

Pics to come in a few months.

Peter

Just to alert you on that thread. I did contact glue the top and bottom of the grill. I didn't like how the sides looked and decided to tape them as the sides need to be flexible to get them into the speaker. How it lasted I have no idea as a great gentleman from Italy wanted those rare 3's so off they went. The sides are meant to be behind the slot in the speaker so he may have removed the tape.

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  • 3 months later...

So, the weather is getting warm enough to spray lacquer.  Does anyone have any tips for lacquering over stain?  I have been trying to get some information on the original stain used, but the company is not returning my calls.

I was going to try to steam out some of the dents in the veneer, but I think I will leave them as battle scars.

I plan on sanding 150, 180, 220, then staining red mahogany.  I have only used oil-based stains in the past.  I assume that if I use an oil based stain I should let it cure for at least a week before I lacquer.

Do I need to use a sealer between the stain and the lacquer?

I plan on using multiple coats of gloss lacquer, followed by a final coat of semi-gloss.

I will probably use rattle cans, unless I can borrow a HVLP sprayer.

Thanks!

L_P

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On 12/21/2018 at 9:52 AM, GD70 said:

If you're in a must use Lacquer on these frame of mind, Lacquer is very easy to work with, but must be done out in an open garage.

I re-veneered the JVC M-7050 & P-L10 pre amp cabs you saw at Frankenfest.

I first brushed on around 20 coats of Lacquer to fill the grain, then block wet sanded them smooth. Then used rattle can spray Lacquer for the finish. Sprayed maybe 8-10 coats.

It was a lot of work but worth it.

With the 3 cabs, I would strongly suggest going with a Danish oil. It's far easier, needing at most 5 hand wiped applications before the veneer will not absorb any more. Sand with 600 grit after 24 hours for each application. You will get a finish like Lakecats.

Glenn

 

Glenn is the real expert on this so I'd go with his advice. 

My only additional thoughts:

  • I've tried different brands in rattle cans and Minwax is by FAR the best. It's easy to use and dries almost instantly, so dust isn't a problem.
  • Minwax does sell a lacquer sealer, which is brush-on and may be a good first coat. I have not used it yet but plan to use it on oak.
  • Don't use semi-gloss. It has flatting agents in it to make it duller but that also gives it less depth IMHO. After you get a nice smooth gloss finish you can "knock down" the gloss with a light buffing with super-fine steel wool (But be sure steel dust does not get near the drivers) or white Scotch Bright or use a furniture-makers method: Pumice or Rotten Stone in oil, rubbed like you would compound a car finish. Or you could wet sand with very fine wet/dry sandpaper (maybe 1000 grit?).

-Kent

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Hi Peter,

Please post pics as you progress. The 3's are really special speakers. You'll do a great job on them and rewarded for years to come. Consider sending the mids to Roy for rebuilding. He did a set of mine, and the improvement was astonishing, like new sound.

Glenn

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Thanks Glenn.

I will consider sending the mids to Roy, but I can't imaging them sounding better than they already do.  What prompted you to send yours to Roy?

The plan now for the cabinets is:  sand, stain, seal with shellac, they a few coats of gloss lacquer.  I will definitely post pics.

Peter

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On May 1, 2019 at 2:29 PM, Lucky Pierre said:

Thanks Glenn.

I will consider sending the mids to Roy, but I can't imaging them sounding better than they already do.  What prompted you to send yours to Roy?

The plan now for the cabinets is:  sand, stain, seal with shellac, they a few coats of gloss lacquer.  I will definitely post pics.

Peter

Hi Peter,

My mids output was not great, somewhat muted. The issue is the white original flexible sealer around the domes bases had hardened greatly diminishing the domes movement to non existent. Roy removes it, adds some type of silicone dabs to support the dome, which allows the movement it should have. Trust me, you think they sound good now, rebuild the mids and you'll be astonished like I was!

Glenn

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