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Found 9 results

  1. Hey! Glad to see the forums back up and running. I've just starting using my Allison Threes again (the home office routine!) and have discovered that both of the the surrounds have finally bit the dust. I had Bill LeGall at Millersound fix my midranges a couple of years ago, and he's amazing and wonderful, but I'd like to try to find someone local in MA who's worked on the Allison 12" woofers before and can fix them. Any suggestions??
  2. Well i blew a tweeter a couple days back. So I'm gonna need to.find some suitable replacements. I'm hoping that one f ya'll can give me some other models that have a tweeter that will be a match to the vr40. Obviously I can't get any orignal VR40 pieces, unless someone here has a couple they would part with. Thank for reading my post.
  3. Hi Everyone, I am new to The Classic Speaker Pages. Great web site! Really interesting and a huge resource of so much great information! I have a question regarding my AR11Bs. I just finished recapping (replaced the 8 uF caps) and rebuilding the crossovers on a pair of KLH Model 6s, circa 1959-1960? (S/Ns 14xx and 24xx range) I found on Craig's List. The speakers sound wonderful. I decided to connect them to my Pioneer VSX DS1 A/V receiver (130 W/channel RMS) along with the pair of AR11Bs. After about 15 mins. of listening, 10 o'clock on the volume control, one of the ARs developed a problem. The volume of the right channel dropped off and I suddenly heard lots of distortion. I determined the distortion was coming from the mid-range driver. Disassembled the AR11B (removed all drivers) and tested the tweeter and mid-range (woofer is OK). The tweeter DC resistance measurement is 4.2 ohms (OK) and the mid-range is testing at 18.7 ohms. Obviously a problem. Quick test on both drivers with a low level signal from the DS1 indicates the mid-range is very distorted and turns on and off. I am looking for an AR OEM replacement mid-range driver, P/N 200010-1. If anyone has one for sale I would be interested in buying it. Vintage-AR, as everyone here already knows, repairs mid-range drivers for ARs but they suggest the possibility of failures in the future unrelated to the repair, which concerns me. Thanks to everyone in advance for your help and any suggestions.
  4. Hi guys, I'm new to the site. I've been reading a lot about these speakers but I still haven't got the opportunity to test them at full potential. This is my situation. I got from my uncle his pair of AR-3a improved dated July 28th 1986 (or what is left from them). They where stored in terrible conditions, misused with an 8 Ohm Sansui 9090DB receiver, and "serviced" lately by a killer technician. The tweeters and mid range drivers are gone. Crossover circuits has been "bypassed" (killed). Both woofers are alive, they just need a refoam. Do you think is it worth to restore them? or it would be a total waste of money? I love the woofers on these ones, I wouldn't wanna throw them away... I would need to rebuild the crossovers and get the replacements for both tweeters and mid range drivers. Here are some pictures
  5. I have 'inherited' a pair of KLH Model Thirty-three speakers. They sound quite nice.... except that there is nothing coming out of the woofer of one of them. Nothing at all. I saw nothing damaged or broken during a superficial visual inspection of the wiring and soldering (once I unscrewed the woofer from the cabinet). Could you help me diagnose the problem, verify the diagnosis, and fix it? I can imagine two obvious potential issues: 1. the woofer is bad and needs to be repaired or replaced; 2. the caps are so old (or at least one is so old) that it/they form(s) a break in the circuitry. Are there any other potential issues I should be looking for? What is the best way to confirm or reject either issue above? I could use a Volt/Ohm/Amp-meter to measure between the two contacts on the woofer, while playing something (the amp is an old British great: a Creek 4040S2). Could I tell from the readings I get if the problem is with the woofer or with what is wending its way to the woofer on the wires? (sorry, couldn't resist :)). Similarly, could i measure something on each capacitor in place to determine if that cap is a break in the circuit? Would it make sense to disconnect the woofer in the 'bad' speaker and connect it in parallel (or perhaps in place of) the woofer in the good speaker. If i do that and the woofer from the bad speaker is still silent -- does that prove that I should just throw it away, or is it possible that it can be repaired? If it can't be repaired, would someone be able to recommend a source for a replacement? WIll I need to buy a pair if I'm replacing one? If there is a better way to diagnose the problem, and/or some other likely cause than the two i could think of, please enlighten me, As far as I could see from these pages, the only (non-cosmetic, functional) repair one normally needs to do is to replace the caps. Are there other things I should check? Thank you for your noob-friendliness, truly THANKS! --scott UPDATE/EDIT: The woofers are connected to the wiring by simple wire-nuts, so it was very easy to swap them. When I did this, I discovered two things, neither good: 1. the woofer that had been silent continued to be silent, and the woofer that had previously worked continued to work. However,it seems that the midrange/tweeter in the formerly "good" speaker wasn't working after all (while the one in the enclosure that originally housed the 'bad' woofer continued to work fine). The end result of this swap, therefore, is that I have one speaker which seems to work just fine, and one that is completely silent. There's nothing obviously physically wrong it.... but both cones make no sound. If i can do anything which might correct this, I am very open to suggestions, THANKS!
  6. Hello, So I got 2 free speakers from a friend that his step dad dropped off in his garage. Audio Research AR4X MKIII 4way speaks made June 1985. Now before you ready any further with all the details below, are they at all worth a nickel to restore and enjoy? List price on 1985 was $339.50 CND. 4 Speakers 12” Poly Woofer 5” Mid Range 1” Dome Tweeter 3 1/2” Piezo Electric Horn Tweeter Range Frequency: 30-22,000Hz Cross Over Frequency: 2000 & 5000Hz Crossover Network: RLC With Mid Range & Tweeter Level Controls Impedance: 8 Omz Max Power Input: 100Watts RMS System: Tuned Bass Reflex Now, I was noticing a couple of issues with the sound, and opened them up the other night. Both resistors on the 5” Mids are totally blown apart, and I was wondering what type of resistor I would need to replays the blown up ones. -Pics can be posted on request if required Would the 5” Mids also need to be replaced? Tweets, Horn, and subs seem fine, has to tighten the female spades, reattach another resistor. One of them looks like it has been repaired with a new horn and sub. One sub has a slight rub tried to offset it with different tightening points on the frame which cleared it up mostly. I have been unable to find any info on these speaker on line, they are canadain made, rather assembled in Toronto Ontario. Any help at all would be great. Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 4
  7. Hello, Good Folks of Classic Speaker Pages, I am in a bind with one of my AR-8s's and during my research into the problem, a couple of sources on the Internet have pointed back to this website quoting the formidable knowledge base regarding Acoustic Research products. So I hope you can help me! I bought a pair of AR-8s's off my uncle about a year ago, along with an old Cyrus amp as part of a long-term hi-fi project. I used the setup occasionally and it sounded fantastic but it largely went unused. Cut to last Saturday,where I was gifted a record player and decided to hook everything up. But lo and behold, my left speaker wasn't working! I'm getting absolutely nothing from a speaker that was working perfectly and I can't quite put my finger on what the problem is. 1. The negative terminal on the speaker is broken and will not hold the cable, but I am fairly certain that there is a good contact between the copper and the terminal contact (when the cable is wedged in there. Rough, I know). 2. I have removed the speaker terminal assembly and found all of the wiring to be in good order, including the capacitor behind it. The capacitor does show signs of being burnt out (pic to follow) but even that is so minor that it could just be a speck of glue or a mark left from a soldering iron. 3. It's conceivable that the amp output is faulty, thought I suspect I would have noticed a smell of burning electronics once I turned it on. I will post some photos when I get a chance. I am no stranger to a soldering iron so if it was just the cap, I'd be laughing. I would also like to fix the negative terminal but the terminal unit is covered in glue and looks to be a sealed unit, so I would rather hear someone's advice on what to do there before chipping away at the glue. At the end of the day, it can be replaced with hotglue but I would rather go in with some idea of what is going on! Does any of this sound familiar to anybody? Let me know if you need any more information!
  8. The title gives the goal of this project. Here are three midranges: A: B: C: A is my uninjured midrange, B is the patient, a working midrange that came to me naked, as you see. C is a non-functional midrange that tests open, and is the donor. The hope is to make B look and sound like A. The hard part here is getting the parts wanted off of C. They are glued down tight. Further, on the donor unit, the grill is inset from the outer flange. This is different from my OEM units, on which the whole face is flush, and is making things harder. I'm willing to be destructive with the donor unit if necessary, but I'd rather not in case it's fault is actually repairable.... My idea at this point is to unscrew the four screws on the face of the donor. I expect this will enable me to pry-off the outer flange, the grill, and the damping, as a unit. X-acto chisel expected to be of use. I will then be able to cut around the inside of the flange with a utiltiy knife, removing the grill and damping. Does this approach sound OK? Advice from anyone who's had these drivers apart very welcome.
  9. Hey all, I'm a newcomer to the forums. I just inherited my parents' pair of KLH Model Thirty-Threes. I'd like to put them back in working order and found this forum while searching the web. The ultimate goal is to have a nice sounding little system set up so I can play my childhood LPs for my new baby daughter. Looking back on my childhood, listening to Peter and the Wolf and Bill Cosby's Why is There Air? just wouldn't have been the same if my folks had played them on an iPod docking station. I want my daughter to know there is a rich and deep world that predates the zeros and ones of the digital age we find ourselves in! (Sorry for the little rant, I have only just recently discovered my latent Luddite tendencies, so I'm a little excited.) I didn't find a FAQ section or the like. Can anyone direct this absolute beginner to a good starting place? That's the first question. Second question is, any recommendations on a fairly common, fairly inexpensive receiver model or brand that would be a good match for these speakers? (Remember, I'm a newb. Overly technical information will be wasted on the likes of me.) Thanks for your time. Looking forward to being a member of the community!
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