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  1. I picked up this pair of Original Large Advent. Or at least I think they are. I do not know my Advents that well. I have not opened these up yet. Obviously they need new surrounds and I was also going to replace the caps while I was at it. And I had plans on lightly sanding and oiling the cabinets to make them sparkle again. They have identical intact tags that say Advent Loudspeaker on back with serial #s M 01535 and M 3057. As you can see from the photos, they look identical with the grilles on, but off one has the Masonite woofer and the cage over the tweeter. The person I got them from (part of a larger deal) said he bought them from the original owner and never got around to updating them, now he was moving houses and decided to sell rather than fix them up. My question is, could one of these been refurbished and thus had drivers updated? Does it matter that the drivers are different? I would not think the different drivers were a manufacturing change when they are only 1500 apart in serial numbers. I assume with such close numbers they would have the same drivers. My thought was to get the correct surrounds and just replace the foams. My understating is that both of these woofers, despite the difference in rings, take the same replacement foam. Secondly, with the different drivers, would the crossover be different? Lastly, should I just replace the drivers in the one speaker with a masonite woofer and tweeter with the cage? Certainly I can find replacement woofers and tweeters on eBay. The cabinets look close enough that replacing the drivers would create a visually identical set. But would they sound identical? These photos are from the seller. I can post more photos if needed. Thanks in advance of any insights! —Patrick
  2. Hello All, First post, I’ll do my best to be coherent (so go easy...). I really could use some guidance and reality checking. I’m trained as an engineer, so not a complete idiot, but electrical engineering was always confusing and acoustics, somewhat baffling (hah.) I’m trying to reconstruct the Double Advent system of my high school days, back when my older brother would come home from college and we’d pair up our respective pairs of The Advent Loudspeaker. Not being made of money, I concluded that rebuilding four speakers was going to be cheaper (well...we’ll see) than buying four refurbished. Plus, it would be fun. At this point I plan to drive them with my old but soon to be professionally refurbished, Nakamichi SR-3A receiver. In high school I had a Dynaco PAT4 preamp and Stereo 80 power amp. Based on my reading, I’ll probably install Pete B’s BSC circuit into the tape monitor, stuff the cabinets with fiberglass, perhaps add additional braces inside the cabinets. (Though I haven’t been able to find a thread that indicates exactly why this is helpful, can anybody help?) I managed to procure four New Advent Utility cabinets and separately, four steel frame, square magnet woofers. One set of woofers needs refoaming, I’ve purchased the surrounds for these from Rick Cobb (looneytoon2001). The second set has been refoamed...improperly, to the front of the cone face rather than the rear. QUESTION 1: Frankly, I’m inclined to let a sleeping dog lie, but: Does anyone have experience on the impact on sound quality when the refoam is to the cone front rather than the cone back (on the steel frame Advent woofers)? If I chose to re-replace the surrounds on the incorrect refoam, does anyone have tips on how to best remove the existing foam from the front face of the cone without damaging the cone? Being a chemical engineer by trade, I’m not necessarily shy about using solvents (properly), but that would not be my preference. I know that some of you could probably refoam these woofers blindfolded by now, so I could use your guidance. So, obviously, I’m on the track of rebuilding four The New Advent Loudspeakers (NLA)and not four The Advent Loudspeakers, (OLA) and this is where it has gotten tricky. There seems to be a large quantity of original, offset mount fried egg tweeters available, but very few flush mount fried eggs. Of the flush mount fried eggs that I’ve seen (including the one that I’ve purchased ?), a fair percentage seem to have decent sized (~3-4mm) holes poked into the diaphragm by the protective mesh or other trauma. I’m skeptical that such damage can really be repaired. I’m finding (and maybe to be expected) that there are also a large number of OLA crossover boards available and not too many NLA crossover boards. Realistically, I plan to completely rebuild the crossovers, even down to the Masonite boards if needed, so that’s really not a showstopper, but finding enough good flush mount tweeters seems to be a problem. I'm starting to leans towards using the OLA fried eggs instead of the NLA flush mount fried eggs, knowing that I’d need to use the OLA crossover design also. It seems to me that the only real difference, given my understanding that the steel frame woofers can serve as a drop in replacement for the Masonite woofers, is that the cabinet volume is slightly larger on the NLA due to the baffle being placed a little more forward since the flush mount tweeters don’t need the grill standoffs. QUESTION 2: Is reverting back to the OLA tweeters and the OLA crossovers in the NLA cabinet a stupid idea? If stupid, why? If not stupid, then I have a choice of either mounting the OLA tweeters directly to the baffle, where the tweeter will now stand proud of the cabinet face, requiring standoffs if I want to use the grills and looking a little wonky since the grills will now also stand proud of the cabinet face, or I could perhaps countersink the tweeter assembly by routing 1/4” to 3/8” of depth out of the front face of the baffle where the tweeter mounting flange is located. QUESTION 3: Does countersinking the tweeter assembly make sense? If I reinforce the tweeter mounting area by solidly gluing a square of MDF to the interior side of the baffle, right behind the tweeter assembly, is that likely to degrade acoustic performance? QUESTION 4: My Nakamichi receiver, is rated at 45 W/ch into 8 ohms (minimum), 16 ohms minimum with A+B outputs driven. I believe that it’s STASIS design may make it somewhat more vulnerable to low impedance loads, but that’s so far out of my wheelhouse that I’ve no idea what to think. I’ve seen measurements for this receiver down to 2 ohms. However, I’d prefer not to burn it up and I know the Double Advents, driven in parallel can go to pretty low impedance. I believe the OLA tweeters and crossovers are better in this sense than the NLAs. What things can I do to minimize the strain on the amplifier? Are there other things that I should watch out for? Sorry for the length of this post. Thank you for your consideration! AustinJoeC
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