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  1. JohnV

    Dynaco A-10

    A note as to removing the grilles on the A10 FIRST REMOVE THE DYNACO BADGE: it's just a metal plate glued to a woodscrew (like the A25) . You should be able to simply rotate it anti-clockwise until it is free. the grillecloth and frame is a bit of a trick... The grillecloth frame is simply-built... with the LONG side frame piece going fully top-to-bottom. This is important later in levering the thing off the glue, without breaking/separating the frame pieces from each other. FIRST THING TO KNOW: the frame is both marginally GLUED (which means the folded-around-the-back grille cloth WILL be partially stuck to the speaker front panel... ) AND secured with TWO small brad/nails. These were a clever easy hidden idea... and thus an annoying trick to get the thing off. These brads are (on mine anyway) ONLY placed on the upper-left and lower-right corners. (directions as if the speaker is VERTICAL with the tweeter above the woofer) MOST IMPORTANTLY they are NOT driven in STRAIGHT, but driven in at a specific EXTREME angle and so CANNOT be simply leveraged/pried off straight without breaking something. I could NOT locate them from the front thru the grillecloth. (if YOU can find them and get a grip to pull them out AT AN ANGLE, without damaging the grillecloth... I salute you) The idea seems to be that you loosen the grille frame as best you can WITHOUT trying to loosen it on those 2 brad-held corners,... they will NOT move, and will break the frame rather than come away being pried straight-up. You initially work your way from the OTHER corners, with a small putty knife as a lever (it reduces compression damage to the front verneer lip) gently applying pressure to break the glue bond (do NOT do this initially on the short frame piece as it can break where it joins the long frame piece) , then feeling your way along to ALSO get whatever grillecloth WILL be staying stuck to the FRONT PANEL rather than coming away with the frame. Once most of the frame and grillecloth has its glue bond broken from the front panel, you can get the brad-corners out differently: the trick I found was to lift the free corners out a bit so you can push sideways on them, and GENTLY apply tool leverage on the brad-held corners WHILE PUSHING SIDEWAYS (leftwards on the top... rightwards on the bottom) ON THE FRAME so that the result is to pull along the axis of the slanted brads. It feels VERY risky as you do it... it takes considerable pressure to break the last of the glue AND get the brad to come out with the frame. The previous owner for my pair had tried getting the grille off and managed to break a frame corner-joint and gave up. I had read a mention somewhere about 'nails' on the A10's but saw none on the loose part of that grille. I managed to get it off without further damage and thus found the brads on diagonal corners. Removing the other speaker's grille on that evidence worked well. hope this is of help
  2. JohnV

    Dynaco A-10

    would this be a current A10 woof replacement? https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-6-7-woofers-scanspeak/scanspeak-classic-p17wj02-04-6.5-woofer-4-ohm/
  3. JohnV

    Dynaco A-10

    I just adopted a pair of classic A10's and a pair of A25's (as well as a pair of POLK model 40's and a pair of KEF Coda-3's) and have spent the last hours looking for info on them. The only smaller Dynaco's I ever knew were the later vinyl ones. These are a marvelous extension of the A25-35-50 concept. the A10's are a bit surface-worn (a bit of household wall paint and some nicks and scratches) but overall in fine shape, look indeed like junior A25's... and as said in this thread that;s EXACTLY how they sound... with a bit lighter bass extension and power. The Polk (cleanly BRIGHT...) and KEF's are nice but not remarkable.
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