Alkaloid

I would ask Andy, WTF happened to Boston Acoustics? They got cheaper and cheaper after the A series.

Shawn make sure you shim the voice coils to make sure they are centered and not scraping. I will try to post a few pics. Also there is some fantastic rope caulking for the gasket when you put the woofers back in the cabinet. B2WT Mortite weather strip and caulking cord. Comes in a roll and 2 strips wide applied to the edge of the woofer is perfect. My pics are too large to attach. You can get this a Home Depot or Lowes, very cheap. Here is a link to a video on Youtube all about capacitors. Shows you how to measure them to see if you need to replace yours. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4EUwTwZ110 I refurbished a pair of OLAs that like yours were in awesome shape cosmetically. I sent the woofers out to Rich So who is of ADS fame. He did the surrounds in butyl rubber. They will be good to go now for another 50 years without rot. My pair had all the paper work intact on the backside along with the original warranty cards. I did the grill cover cloth as well. Good luck with your pair and enjoy!!🔊

Thanks J. I have them all over the place on the hard drive, and some in Google that I drag and drop, and some in Windows 10 that I upload. The drag and drop ones seem to be the ones screwing up. I will get it eventually. Just want to make sure I share some information for the next person so their project will go easier and be successful.

https://www.adsspeakersservice.com/?lightbox=dataItem-jr3nhaum1 This is a link to Rich So's website, and it has a perfect center channel for any ADS L1290 or L1290/2 set up. Plans are there with the dimensions, and Rich has the parts. Crossovers, drivers. I built one for my system and all you need is a plunge router, and a jig. I will provide a few links to help someone achieve this since the company is no longer around. https://jaspertools.com/ The jigs tell you what router to buy that will fit. The way I made the cut outs was to make stencils with my factory cabinets. I had sent out the drivers and the crossovers for a complete rebuild by Rich, so with the empty cabinet I was able to measure the woofer size, and I used stencils for the midrange, and tweeter, and crossover openings. They were first a square opening, and then inside the square opening the plate fit into was the opening for the driver magnets. Don't be intimidated, it can be done and is worth it for the sound and correct timbre matching.

Even though this post is old, I have straightened out many a grill for the L1290 model. I put them face down, outside down, on a flat piece of marble or any hard surface that is flat and smooth, and then bang them with a rubber mallet. Works like a charm.

Some how these pics got lost on the last post so I am trying again.

I don't know where you guys are getting info from but the price has gone up considerably. Check out Ebay and some are going from 350 to 700$ And some of the cheap ones are a mess. Glue all over the surrounds, no way of knowing if they were put on right or if the voice coil was shimmed like it should be so it doesn't scrape and short out. You need to first find decent cabinets, then get the woofers NOT re foamed so you can do it right, or send them to someone who fixes speakers for a living. The grills you can tackle yourself, and the cloth you can buy online like the staple gun and staples. The caulking is at home depot for under 10$. These are decent speakers when up to spec, and they sound quite nice with plenty of bass from the masonite woofers. I have an extra pair that I am going to be unloading, and I just did the grills to practice for my pair. I had to get 2 pairs because the first pair that have almost perfect cabinets with all the paper work on the back intact, had 2 different woofers. One masonite and one new model woofer. I prefer the masonite ones because it was the first pair I owned back in 75. Now I have it totally rebuilt. I bought the second pair just to get the woofer. I got a full pair that were foam rotted out for 80$. I drove all the way to Delaware to avoid shipping and it cost me 40$ in gas, along with 13 hours round trip. Well worth it for me since I wanted a nice pair for almost 5 years now I have been waiting to get lucky. My extra pair is going up for sale soon for 150$ but need refoam and 2 different woofers. I did the grills already. This is shimming the coil. This surround is not on right. Supposed to be inverted and under the mosonite, This is the proper way, under the ring.

I had that problem on an old pair of ADS L1290/2s. I bought them off of Craigslist. When I picked them up and took them home and put them in the rear channel of a 5.1 surround system I ran some pink noise signals to set the volume with a SPL sound pressure level meter. The front pair were the same model so when the signal panned to the rear channel the 2 speakers were 3 db softer than the front. Also the treble was a tiny bit softer. Bad ferrofluid gets like gel. I sent them off to Rich So and he rebuilt the entire system, tweets, mids, and woofers. He also did the caps on the crossovers and a few cracked posts. There is many videos on YouTube showing tweeters being rebuilt, and the ferrofluid being replaced. Check them out before you do it. It makes a mess and is caustic to your skin so be careful.

I just did a pair. Sent the woofers out to Rich So of ADS fame. He does Bose and Advents as well as a few more. Did the surrounds in Butyl Rubber instead of the foam. Compliance is undetectable as far as any difference from the original response. These will not rot out or need repair for the next 50 years. I will post some pics of what I used for gasket material. The color matches the goop that is holding the screen on the tweeter. I got the cloth from Guilfords of Maine, and used an eggshell color. It is what I remember the color being on my original pair back in 75. This pair has a few scratches, I got them off of Craigslist from NH. All the original paper work is still intact on the back including the warranty cards. They were never sent it. Paper is a bit yellowed, they didn't use acid free paper on them. Not sure if acid free was out back then. I used a staple gun, electric and 1/8th inch leg staples. Reinforced the corner folds with hot melt glue for strength. First pair I ever worked on, just wish I could get the cabinets perfect. This is how neet Rich did the job. He also shims the voice coil. I could never get them this good myself. This mortite brown rope caulking fit like a glove with 2 strips wide, and flattened out perfectly to the edge of the basket when the screws were torqued down. Notice the color of the brown goop holding the screen on the tweeter. You can just barely see the edge of the caulking under the basket.

The owners manual for the L1230s has a really good description on page 7 that is the most thorough explanation I have seen yet on benefits of bi-amping. I will post a link of a PDF and navigate to pg, 7 and read it. Has what the C2000 says and a tiny bit more about the distortion reduction when you separate the high and low signals. https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/review?uri=urn:aaid:scds:US:ae3a4cea-4490-4bcc-9faf-5b546d7fbfb9#pageNum=1 The 12db slope crossover designed by Linkwitz Riley is the finest design for a 3 way passive crossover. No phase shift. I have a pair of CM5s that use a 24db slope on a 2 way. I hope this helps everyone.

This is my system as of right now. I have 2 more pairs in the cellar that are going up on the ceiling in an Atmos 5.1.4 system. All 9 speakers will be L1290/2s. This is the center channel. Where did you get the edges for your grill? I bought a plastic frame from Parts Express and I like your design better. Thanks for sharing your project!