Jnkns

I finished rebuilding one crossover last night, gave it a quick test and it worked as expected. I was so excited to get the insulation back in and get the foam sealing tape on so I could really hear how it sounded that I forgot to snap a pic of the finished crossover! I'll make sure I get a pic of the other one when I have time to fire up the soldering iron again to finish it...hopefully tonight. It's great to finally hear these speakers reach their full potential.

Roy, How does this look? Just a little sloppy magic with the Photoshop clone tool to mask out existing wires and redraw. Does this look correct?

giovanni, I'll try to measure it for you while I have things taken apart.

Yay! I read a schematic correctly! Haha. I have heard of people soldering on a jumper to bypass a defective pot though, so your note was understandable. Yes, the other one was wired the same. Pic of the other one is attached. Somebody did a real hack job on the soldering in these. Tonight I desoldered the woofers and clipped all the wires going to the pot connections so I could remove the old pots and install the new ones I bought from JKent. I got those installed and soldered the B terminal connection because I was fairly confident I knew what needed to go there. I also cleaned up most of the old black goop that sealed the woofer to the cabinet. I'll be replacing it with foam gasket. That black stuff is a pain to remove. Some of it peels out in nice strips but some of it really doesn't like to let go. Hopefully sometime this week I'll have time to continue working on it. I may take a picture and draw out a wiring diagram to clarify things for myself and ask you to double check it for me, if you don't mind. It could be a helpful addition to this thread for someone searching for info in the future too.

I finally have everything together to start digging into this project. Roy, can you clarify something for me? You said the green wire going to pot terminal 2 in my picture should be going to pot terminal 1 instead. But if I'm reading the schematic in Ra.Ra's thread correctly (and I VERY well may not be) it looks like the green wire coming from speaker terminal 1 should connect to terminal 1 on the pot, the green wire from the tweeter should connect to B on the pot, and the yellow wire from the tweeter along with the green wire coming from the 20uf resistor should be going to terminal 2 on the pot. Is this schematic incorrect? Or am I reading it wrong?

Roy, That is immensely helpful, thank you! I'm sure I'll be asking you to check my work once I get started on it. I have a set of pots from Kent arriving in the next day or two, and a handful of things from Parts Express too, as long as USPS doesn't disappear them. Haha.

Thanks for all your help thus far, sir! Much appreciated.

Here's a better pic of my crossover. It looks identical to Ra.Ra's. And the serial numbers are very close to his as well.

From reading a bunch of AR-4X threads it seems I have the same crossover as Ra.Ra in this thread: I gather I will need a 20uf and a 24uf cap. I am very new to this and have fairly limited electronics knowledge...I can solder well, but I don't have a deep enough grasp of physics to be able to figure all of this out. What voltage? 250? Are these what I need? https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DMPC-20-20uF-250V-Polypropylene-Capacitor-027-436 and https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DMPC-25-25uF-250V-Polypropylene-Capacitor-027-438 Should I step up to the tighter tolerance versions? Should I chain some smaller value caps to a 20uf cap to make exactly 24uf instead of going with the single 25uf cap? Any help from those more knowledgeable would be much appreciated! And if anyone is able to explain the "why" of it all I love to learn and would be all ears.

Yeah, I have one of those odd variations. My 180's have the 3-way toggle switch mentioned on the Human Speakers page right above the 180 schematic. And the schematic they link to for it shows a 16uf cap between the switch and the tweeters. I'm curious to see what the guts of mine actually look like.

Thanks for the input and information, guys. I ended up just going for it. They're in great condition and so far I'm very happy with how they sound in my room with my HH Scott Stereomaster 388-B. They fill the whole house nicely. I can be in the kitchen or the main living room and it still sounds good. I'm not an overly obsessive audiophile...yet...so I'm just happy to have something that sounds better than a crappy all in one boombox thing. 😅 I think for $125 they were well worth it. Especially since my only other speakers are torn apart on my workbench waiting to have their pots replaced. Oh! Good point on doing a recap. I think I'll wait until my AR-4x's are back together and then pull the woofers out of the EPI's to take a look at the caps and everything. Someone over on the AudioKarma forum just recommended reworking the caps as well. He said the 180's use a single 16uf cap is used for both tweeters but he rewired his to have a 10uf cap for each tweeter and it was an improvement. I may give that a try too.

Got it! Sounds like a worthy upgrade. If I'm going to go through the trouble to get these back in operation I might as well do it as best I can.

Hey JKent! I tried to PM you but it shot back a message saying you can't receive messages. What's the story on the pots you have? I'm not in a huge rush and would like to get something as close to original as possible. Are the pots you have better than going the L-pad route?

What do you all think of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/AR-3-AR-3a-AR-2-AR-2ax-AR-4-AR-4x-AR-5-AR-6-wirewound-potentiometer-pot/153936403748?hash=item23d7531d24:g:wTMAAOSw2XdeIgUS&shqty=1&isGTR=1#shId

Anybody have a set of EPI 180's? What do you think of them? I might be picking up a set in pretty good condition for $125. All the woofers have been refoamed on them. Still kind of on the fence about it, but I think I might just get them. The only other speakers I currently have is a set of AR-4x's that are pulled apart on my workbench for refurb. I could use another set of speakers and these EPI's look interesting...and equally important, inexpensive. Haha.