FabRik8r

That's all I needed to hear. Thanks! I'll just get new tabs on. Easy peasy.

Hey guys, I have an early version of the XA (TA) that I need to rewire the tonearm and I would like to use the same wire in the headshell. Also, partly since the headshell wire tabs are black oxidation on them and one tab is broken. Normally, the pins in the headshell are easy to get at, but this early version is different. The pins are not moveable, without (I'm guessing) a lot of force ... more than I'm comfortable with, as I don't want to break it. Any tips to do this?

Stanton ... a blast from the past.

I had the mods done ... I got the table stock from my Dad with a Shure M44 cartridge. I had hum issues with the stock arm and was going to have to rewire the arm. At that time, I didn't have the experience to do a rewire, and I was encouraged to consider a new arm. Found a steal on a used "bad wire" Rega arm and had it sent to Johnnie at Audio Origami for a wire and other custom stuff like the brass stub and counterweight ... I wanted that as a nod to the original counterweight. As for the darker wood being the original wood color ... I know there are a few ways I can approach the finish, but I'll choose the best solution to achieve originality. My normal finishes include shellac (hand mix blonde flakes), lacquer, danish oil, or in some cases Howard's Feed N Wax works wonders.

I'm curious about the mid's ... all I see is a "sponge", and I don't hear about people discussing those. I'll look around the forum to see if I can find threads that are helpful, but feel free to post links.

Haha, well, yes. I stopped using the weight and removed the poly/cork mat to go for a thinner rubber/cork mat from Pathewings. These pics are from different iterations. I installed a Merrill motor in it using the wall wart, and it runs nice. I have installed the new Hurst 3001-001 motor and it works just dandy.

Hey guys, thanks for the responses! I need to check my post settings, but I didn't get notifications, so sorry for the late reply. I'm usually right on it. genek, the grills in the first photo are correct. My dad may have had these upside down and not thought much of it. He has never considered himself an "audio guy", so I can see him doing that. The dark ring was probably from an ornate Japanese brass lamp with felt pad on the bottom. It looks the right size. ar_pro the cabinets have no damage, which is part of why I was so excited to see the condition when we pulled out of the attic last year. I don't need the badges shiny to enjoy, so I'll avoid damaging them with Brasso or the like, thanks! Good to know on the velcro / grills ... that would be my first option. Giorgio AR thanks I guess I'll need to pull the woofers to inspect after I get these home in August. I rebuild turntables and have experience with speaker surrounds, crossover upgrades and electronic repairs. Although, electronics for preamps and amps is one thing I limit myself to my own stuff, and only when I can get some help from smarter people. All to say that if it turns out that I can fix the tweeters on my own, I'll do it ... but only if it's the best course of action. As mentioned, these are a historical gem for this model and I'd like to honor that. I have better speakers, but for me, these will be fun to own and use. I may even decide to pair up with my Dad's old AR XA and maybe give me an excuse to get an old Fisher 400/500 .... Just for context, here is my Dad's old AR XA. By the way, I have the original box and all paperwork. He never filled out warranty cards, and doesn't throw anything away. Nice for me.

Hey guys, this is my first post here. I was pointed in this direction after starting a thread about my Dad's speakers. I have most of his original system and that is part of the reason I'd like to get these back to my place to restore. First, a little background on these. My dad bought these on base with an AR XA turntable that I have fully modified and enjoy. I have his Sony R2R, but it's last in line. I have an Akai GX-635D that is restored so no urgent need in that medium. These AR-2ax's have been up in the attic in north Texas for decades. One of the tweeter domes has popped out, and I think the TX heat has probably dried these out more than most other places in the country they could have been in hibernation. I have attached pics to show you the condition. Overall, they are pretty nice. I won't be able to physically check these out for a month. My thought is that I need the tweeters rebuilt and it might be smart to remove those before shipping the speakers, and just send the tweeters to whoever will do the work. This will at least lessen the possibility of additional damage if the speaker shipping boxes are dropped. I am aware of a seller on the auction site that sells various parts for restoration on these, including the doping solution for the cloth surrounds on these. I have time to fine tune my plan of attack, but I don't have access to my "repair" gear/stuff there, and will wait to check drivers out when I'm back home. However, any advice or suggestions you guys can offer while I wait to fly there, will be appreciated. One question I have is about the grills. They are actually pretty clean and I may not clean them at all, just vacuum carefully. But what about those crazy staples? I pulled what felt like 30 out of each speaker grill. As a general rule of thumb, do you guys use velcro or a modern way of reattaching? Or do you source similar type staples? It just seems to me that if there is a chance that I'd have to pull these off in the future, why make it that difficult. Plus, I'm guessing that in the late 60's, they were limited to good solutions. As for refinishing. I will clean up the badges with Brasso, if that is ok. The wood will get a light sanding. I need to deal with the stain, but am fine with it being a part of the final restoration. I may leave the front baffle as is. I am not going to remove any of the markings as to me they honor the history. I'm leaving all the paperwork attached to the back of the speakers, so when I refinish the wood cabs, I'll protect the back panel as well as the front baffles. Did I miss anything that is important at this early stage?