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  1. I have all the drivers and components needed to finish a pair of AR3 speakers if anyone has a pair of empty cabinets or speakers for parts thanks
  2. Hi all, On the lookout for one working AR3 Alnico Woofer if anyone has a spare, or parted out a speaker for sale. The one I have in the other speaker is from 1967. PM me if interested. Thanks
  3. Thanks dchristie, that’s very helpful and makes a lot of sense. When you consider everything else that can vary with these speakers at this point I guess it’s hard to even imagine there being a specific sound, and is of course all subjective either way. Yeah interesting on the collecting ‘original’ speakers part - I’m assuming they have someone the trust to work on them otherwise they’ve just bought a pair of speakers with worn cabinets and out of spec (or soon to be out of spec) drivers, pots and caps. Either way, these particular speakers had to be worked on extensively and will hopefully sound good for a long time yet afterwards. I shall continue as I am, thanks again!
  4. Hi all, Have a question on the above discussion - could anyone with experience of both explain what the audible difference between using the AR3a mid (with the final crossover from the schematic) is compared to the AR3 mid with one of the earlier crossovers is? Long story short I got hold of a pair of AR3s that had been factory modified to AR3a back in the 70s and due to the state they were in when I got to them I decided it would be best to get them back to AR3 for a number of reasons. The one drawback of doing this (or the main one I guess) is that it's very challenging to get AR3 Mids and the one piece of these speakers that didn't needed replacing was the AR3a mid that they came with. Once someone pointed out that AR themselves actually used AR3a mids in AR3s at the end of production with a different crossover I assumed that they wouldn't have rolled them out and sold them to people if they sounded noticeably different to earlier iterations, particularly if it was worse, so went with this option. Seems dangerous reputationally. But obviously read the above conversation and now am worried that a) they won't sound right once I finish them in a week or two and b) resale value will be much lower. I planned to sell these on one day as just a standard refurbed pair of AR3s (they have alinco woofers, AR3 tweeters and a pair of mids that were used by AR in AR3s, and I've got a decent crossover in there made up of jantzen coils, Mundorf Mcap EVOs and Jantzen Silver Z-caps) that in all honesty in my opinion I was hoping someone would recognize that they should sound better than a lot of stuff that is being sold as 'original' on Epay for $2000-$4000. Now I deliberately built the crossover using two 15uf caps for the 30uf, so I could remove a 15uf and replace with 9uf and remove a coil if a pair of AR3 mids miraculously turn up for a reasonable price (unlikely I think) to get to the original AR3 24uf crossover, but I ask this question partly because in the future, the way I am having to do this may be one of the only ways to re-build a pair of AR3s and I'm still kind of blown away that they may sound inferior or at least not true to the original AR3 sound. Perhaps I misread and AR3 considered the last iteration of the AR3 an improvement and those who are used to the older ones will just notice it's different, but wanted to check. Any thoughts much appreciated, I want to do right by these AR3s!
  5. https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/9500-an-interesting-variant-of-the-ar-3/Hi all, Newbie here (have been desperately awaiting the re-opening of the forum), but am also in the process of rebuilding some AR3s using the AR3a mid (late crossover) and having read this convo just wanted to ask if anyone has a photo of their crossover for an AR3 using AR3a Mid rather than starting a whole new topic for it? I have the very helpful schematic but I'd like to double check using a photo for safety too if anyone has one. Also is it an issue if my tweeters are front wired and the mids back wired? It doesn't seem like it based on the schematic and the fact there are 4 posts on the front of the speaker but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. Thanks, I'll start a new post is people prefer Edited: eventually found a really helpful topic that answers the above, linking here in case anyone else ever needs it:
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