C.R.James

That's it! Is that a factory setup with the jumper across the two posts, with everything in the speaker working as it's intended? ( No blown out/noisy pots or tired crossover network?) BTW, what vintage is the speaker in the pic? Is it yours? Did someone used a surround to smooth out the recessed terminals area? Thanks, C. R. James

Aadams, Thanks for that useful 'manual'. It provides all the data I needed, for the most part. One question; why do I see on some of the rear knurled nut posts what looks like solder between the posts on some ARs? Is that factory bridging of some sort? TIA, C.R. James

Thanks Genek, I stand corrected Thanks for clarifying my error. It's good to have the facts....

Thanks Roy, I'm new to this forum, and plan to search everything there is here about AR speakers/turntables, etc., as time allows, and maintaining a regular life concurrently permits. AR first, life as usual, distant 2nd. So, to clarify the 2aXes should be connected to 8 ohm outputs? And what gauge wire from amp to speaker(s) would be best... Thanks! C.R. James

Roy, Thanks for your insight. Is there a way to rebuild, repair, tweeters of this AR original type; or once they are shot/blown that's it for them? How does one minimize the effect of the oxidation on the aluminium, if there is a way to combat its effect? Would coating with No-Ox mitigate its effect? BTW, I was most concerned that Mcintoshkid was asking about front tweeter wires and folks were suggesting the rear, pot connections were likely the issue, (corroded pots). And I wasn't sure if reversing wires in the front would/could cause an out-of-phase between the two speakers tweeters. Side question: can AR-2axes be fed 8 ohms as a source from an amp, or are they dependent on 4 ohms? Same question when using Micro-static tweeter as replacements for blown OEM AR tweeters? TIA for your help. C.R.James

Mcintoshkid, I believe you were referring to the FRONT push to open wire 'studs' which the tweeter's wires fit into at the location of the actual tweeter, not the rear of cabinet adjustments for the high and mid range speakers via the pots. As I just wrote on your other thread about these ARs, the tweeters are sensitive to getting blown out. I don't know but suspect it is possible to wire them up front to the abovementioned posts and have the two speakers out of phase, but I'm not sure. Mention this possibility in case you put the wires back in place in reverse order than you found them?

Mcintoshkid, Sounds like you have a good pair of AR's. A few words to consider. The original tweeters were prone to blowing out- so try to not crank them too high. I don't know what the reason for this was, so if someone can enlighten, please do. I got mine when I was in undergrad, and the tweeters were already blown, BUT the AR's came with a pair of Micro-Static tweets, which were connected to the AR's at the rear knurled connections, just as the main AR's were wired. Be careful if/when opening the front of your speaker cabinet; (to replace or repair the pots) to carefully lift up the front grilles closest to where the AR badge is 'screwed' into the grille board. You can screw in an appropriate sized screw, in place of the badge and carefully lift without too much pressure while sliding a flexible, thin putty knife to pry the grille up and off whatever was used to mount it to the speaker cabinet. If you might today or sometime in future consider yourself a collector of things like the AR's keep anything you remove and things inside the cabinet, like old caps, etc. leave in place if you can work around them. Most old caps, in these vintage AR's are out of value from original specs, by some amount due to age if nothing else. I know you did not say you wanted to mess with the crossovers, but keep in mind if you go in to do the pots, you might as well read the caps to see where they are at, as a reference point for later. They may vary from speaker one to speaker two, possibly. If you do pot replacements, do one speaker at a time, then you have easy reference for where things go from the other speaker too. Keep and reuse the fiberglass/wool? that is packed into the cabinet and reuse all of it. If you don't do anything other than pots cleaning/replacement, make sure the woofer surround if an airtight seal to the cabinet when you put it back together. BTW, from what I've heard the speakers were designed to be used horizontally, NOT vertically, and if I heard wrong someone please chime in here. If so, when reinstalling the speaker it might benefit it's longevity by rotating it's 'found' 12 O'clock orientation, by 180 degrees to minimize the effects of Gravity _ _ _ _ _ _ ? Sorry can't remember the second part of the phrase, but it has to do with the pull of gravity over time could, possibly affect the magnet and other things about the speaker.... Can you shoot some pics of your ARs and what else you are driving them with. turntable, amp, etc. Thanks. Have fun with them, they are excellent speakers, IMHO