Moondogtn

Ra.ra, I have been bad about responding lately. Holidays, work, family....I downloaded a copy of that assembly manual from someones post here. I used the rubber washers to insulate but there is really nothing on the pot to make contact with plate. Lakecat, I noticed that after the auction was over. I am glad I passed but certainly wish I could find some original grill cloth. Mine is just faded enough to tell....they still look good to me. This midrange flange was broken terribly during shipping. I was able to get it back together but she is not pretty. Looks have not ever been the strong suit of these drivers so....function, not fashion. It works. I was able to get one completed and it sounds sweet. The other is just waiting for me to reinstall everything. I picked up some zinc screws at home depot just to mount drivers and be able to listen to them. The black oxide coated screws I am still working on locating. I found some on amazon but I don't need 2000 so trying to find an alternate source. Some panhead on ebay for about 12 bucks shipped for 50 seems fair. I will go that route unless someone has suggestions. I will try to get some better pics later. Bill

Ra.ra, I think that is sort of what I have been wondering about. I see the concept and think it looks great but I don’t see myself as being able to pull anything like that off....I have a plan. I’ll take pics afterwards. Here is current challenging space. I even have two project boxes but they are too large to fit in that space.

Jkent, Thanks for ideas. I saw those enclosures and they look great but mine are mounted to that aluminum plate and I don’t know what I would fit around them and make fit. I’ll see what I can come up with.....this is what is holding up my project for now....I’ll post a pic this evening to show what I mean by limited space and advice is welcome. lakecat, I saw those. Something is up with the woofer surrounds for sure. My cabs aren’t in the best shape but I will refinish and hopefully be presentable. Grills are ok but maybe a little faded. I can’t wait to hear these but holidays and family stuff seem to occupy more and more time. I will finish eventually. Bill

I’m finally getting to this. I ended up purchasing the Russian pots on eBay. They are very nice. They do have the open back. I haven’t come up with anything to enclose them as space is limited. I’m leaning towards...don’t laugh...using silicone baking mold for cupcakes or some sort of silicone ice tray. It will be pliable and I will be able to glue it in place. I would like to know what purpose the enclosure will actually serve? Does it seriously get that hot as others mentioned heat and fire prevention? Fiberglass is flame retardant but I know it can burn I assumed it would be to keep the pot clean from contamination. If this has been discussed in depth, I couldn’t find it. Thanks

I got sidetracked with life and am finally getting back to this project. I was hoping someone had tried the russian pots and could provide some feedback. I am still undecided on whether to order the Russian Pots or just use the L-pads. Both will eventually fail but either should probably last for a good time before doing so. I may try those pots and at least would be able to see how they are made. We all know how well those L-pads are constructed. I have read that the sprague electrolytics hold up well. I checked mine and seem to be 56 for the 50uF and 156 for the 150uF. I may just replace while in there to be done with it. The 6uF wax in paper chicago condenser crayon is getting replaced....checked it for fun...12uF. I will check in soon. Please let me know opinions on any of these items. Thanks Bill

These pots are worse than others I have seen. I haven’t gotten to all of them but one is toast. I can’t get it to work at all...after cleaning up. So, for replacement pots, has anyone used these https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264256977509 they seem to be close....25W 15ohm. If not, what is recommended Thanks

Long term project update. I just used shims when replacing surrounds and it was much easier as you could adjust height of cone to make it sit correctly. One of the 4 woofers was not salvageable due to a concentric break in voice coil bobbin. I’m trying to come up with something but haven’t yet. When I asked millersound about repairing using original cone, I was told they would not do that They suggested a complete recone as they said the voice coils on these fail shortly after new surrounds are installed. Has anyone experienced this? Min getting ready to work on crossovers. Do most folks completely remove the crossover from the cab or just removed the pots and caps as needed? I will post pics of the mids I purchased. They were damaged during shipping but I think I saved them. I will need to dig up pics to post.

Another maybe dumb question. I got the surrounds from Rick Cobb. I have never had to refoam ARs before. I do have Masonite trim rings still in place and know they should remain. The cone seems to be sitting to low and there is a gap large enough to cause me concern. I’m not fond of removing the dust cap. I usually don’t shim during a refoam but this may be the best way to do these as I have no other way to raise the cone enough to meet the surround properly. Im curious...has anyone tried using a heat gun to carefully removed the dust cap on these. I have done it on KLH. Thansk for any tips Bill

Kent, I did read the area regarding the insulation. I’m not that far along but will pick that up soon. This project is going to take some and money time but feel it will be worth it. Yes, Glenn does amazing things with cabinets! I’m trying not to get in a rush and will continue to post progress. Bill

I am trying to get started. I ordered surrounds from Rick Cobb. When I purchased these, the seller threw in two woofers that were suspected bad. I am not so sure I tried to attach pics of the two I had questions about...tinsel wires are corroded and one broke off of back of cone. The picture is a repair attempt by someone else but it almost worked. I was able to repair but am curious if this is a common issue? I plan to use black rtv or something to secure the voicecoil leads. I am also considering replacing the tinsel wire completely although both of these now read about 4 ohms. These will he used in an upcoming restoration...I hope lakecat, what sort of bar clamps did you find the easiest to use on this? I’ll keep the thread updated Bill

So, lakecat, I too noticed the screws securing the crossovers and immediately appreciated that! I hadn’t checked those caps but planned to do so prior to replacing if needed. Also, pots I hear age better in these. I will test them and then clean up as needed and relube. Insulation for stuffing cabs? I’ve been asking about drivers and stuff but... Cabinets are in pretty decent condition except slight swelling on bottoms. Anyone have suggestions for this? The veneer isn’t damaged. I am considering some good old fashioned clamps with long wooden blocks to try and slowly tighten them up? Then inject glue once I get them close? Thanks for all the support. Bill

Adams, I do have the AR-3a restoration guide saved. I also found the Heathkit assembly manual I downloaded. At this point, I will go with the HiVi tweeters unless I stumble across some originals at a decent price. Any idea what approximate costs for rehabbing the old ones may be? Not so much a purist but like to keep original if feasible. I will do my best to get these back in shape. It will take me some time as I have plenty of irons in the fire. Thank you for the advice. I tried that search and had read some of those threads. I was mainly curious as to updates or changes to preferred suppliers. Thanks again. Bill

Adams, Pictures weren’t anything special but I will try to work on posting at some point I noticed that many seemed to be using the HiVi Q1R successfully as a tweeter. But wasn’t sure if that was best, most current choice. Bill

I picked up some Heathkit AS-103a from a buddy and was hoping for some advice and clarification on a few things prior to getting started. I’m sure I am in the right place. The status of these speakers was not enviable. Bad first. Midranges were missing. One tweeter looks to me missing the diaphragm and the one woofer was missing the Masonite ring The good news. Woofers were original. Also, he had two extra woofers he include in the deal. So, three of the four had the rings. Two woofers test good. The other two don’t test good from the terminals but do if you go straight from voice coil leads. Corrosion or bad solder joints? Has anyone seen this issue? I feel like I can clean up and redo those solder joints at where tinsel wire meets the voice coil wire. This would give me a spare pair of woofers. Actually, I’d use one of these rather than cutting my own Masonite ring I’m wanting to go ahead and order surrounds but was curious what current sources have the best product. I reached out to Rick Cobb and he sent me the specs of his current surrounds for AR-3a woofers. Specs below are from Rick concerning surrounds Foam surround dimensions / AR3a woofers / p/n #610-050-1 Inside diameter (I.D. edge to edge): 8-1/8" Outside diameter (O.D. edge to edge): 10-1/2" Inside (inner) attachment lip size: 1/4" (angle attachment lip) Outside attachment lip size : 5/16" Roll size-Unmounted: 13/16" Cone diameter: 8-1/4" - 8-1/2" Also, what replacement tweeter is the go to that is most well liked? I do have some midranges on the way. I’ll get caps ordered and check the pots soon. Not in a huge rush. Note: I’m not sure why I can’t upload pictures I will work on getting those added Error says file -200 but the pics are all smaller than that about 1.3 to 2 MB Update, pics resized and posted Thanks for any and all help Bill