Jump to content
The Classic Speaker Pages Discussion Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About ajfink

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. Sidenote - I recently mucked around with how my system is cabled and swapped my BSC box out and then back in just for a perceptual refresher. The BSC makes a world of difference. Advents aren't ever going to really disappear into the soundstage, but the BSC does a damn fine job of taking them in that direction. Highly recommend.
  2. Allegedly the Masonite-ringed woofers (OLA) are identical to the metal-stamped woofers (NLA) except for the basket, but the NLA ran them a little more open (in terms of frequencies reproduced) than the OLA, and I think Zilch may have tested them both a few years back (I don't have the links on hand). I can't remember if he verifiably did test both and what the results were, but a few quick Google searches along that route might provide the answers you're looking for.
  3. ajfink

    OLA's I Just Bought

    By the by, have you considered converting these to the Rev.2, 16uf/8uf crossover versions? I did this to one of my pairs, and it's obviously an added obnoxious step, but thought (and this is a big ol' shrug from me) is that the newer revision was better.
  4. ajfink

    OLA's I Just Bought

    The new capacitors will likely open them up! Let us know what you think.
  5. No one's chimed in yet, so I will. I've never seen or heard of a direct supplier of anything similar, but your best bet may be plastic/vinyl trim or the like initially intended for windows, doors, etc. - or really any place you could get thin plastic you could then cut and sand down into shape.
  6. I've never heard the Simply Speakers recreation woofers, but they are allegedly built to be as close to the steel basket originals as they could get them. Unless someone has some tested parameters of these vs. the originals, I think the original crossovers would be the baseline you should start with - but recapped, of course.
  7. Do you have a link to the listing?
  8. 1) They can be as shiny as you want, depending on preference and what you want to refinish or oil them with. Both of my pairs of walnut OLAs by default have a "satin," as you described, finish. 2) Not sure if there's a way to "re-plate" the inner trim, but those don't look too off from the examples I've seen. 3) As long as the voice coil isn't rubbing, you should be okay. with the surrounds as-is for now But I would definitely refoam them in the proper (reversed) orientation to fully enjoy them as intended when you get to that point.
  9. Definitely looks like an Advent /1 crossover, per: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/advent-crossover-help-quick.160846/#post-1806724 And that is most assuredly an air core. Looks like he's cooking with gas, then, so to speak....
  10. I would replace the capacitors regardless, as pointed out by the others. I've had great success with Dayton Audio's poly caps being on-spec, even the cheaper 5% tolerance caps. I would buy two of each of these connect them in parallel (for a total of 13uf), and then replace the old single capacitors in each crossover: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-12-12uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-430 https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-10-10uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-410 If you plan on playing these loud, replacing the inductor with an air core or p-core (as opposed to iron core) inductor might be a good idea. Edit - I'm not sure this would help with brightness, though. The hard surfaces might be part of the issue.
  11. I wouldn't muck with them, then, unless you'd like to move to a lower DCR for further damping/cutting bass "boominess." Edit - I would remove the screwdriver, first. ?
  12. I recently picked up some Prodigy Towers - anything notable about the woofers that the class would like to hear?
  13. Correct me if I'm wrong: you have a set of OLAs and a set of NLAs? If so, the "extended" position of the OLAs is akin to the "normal" position of the NLAs and you'd want to match them in that way when playing together, I'd think (but of course you don't have to). If both sets are the same model...nevermind. New binding posts is a definite step up.
  14. Is that the smallest quantity you can find? Lowe's/Home Depot/your local hardware store might be able to hook you up.
  15. An alternative to going air core if you're cost sensitive are p-core inductors, which have significantly less distortion than iron core inductors and lower DCR and cost at a given wire gauge than air core inductors. I unwound four of these down to 1.6mH for my main two sets, and will likely be adding two more: https://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-5280-22mh-20-awg-p-core-inductor--255-130 This is also a lower-than-stock DCR, which I ~think~ has added to the damping of the woofer, to my ear. All-around improvement. Fiberglass insulation or poly fill for cabinet fill, don't be too stingy on the amount. Pick some poly caps on-spec. Replace the resistors with non-inductive ones, if you feel so inclined, but these are likely the least important. If you have the super-thin-wired tweeter inductors and plan on pushing them loud, it would be worthwhile to replace these with lower-gauge (thicker) inductors. Edit - mine are Original Large Advents / OLAs, so there would be some component value differences between ours and yours, the NLAs, I don't think had dinky tweeter inductors.
  • Create New...