Adrian T

Thanks Pete.

Hi Pete. Thanks for the reply, I greatly appreciate your assistance. So that I understand the components effect. 1. The 4ohm resistor controls the bass loudness / response. Reduction in resistance will reduce the bass loudness / response and increase the resistance will increase the bass loudness / response. I’m looking to try 3.5, 3.75 & 4.6 ohm resistors. So I can soften the bass response 2. The 10uF cap boosts the high end. I’m looking to try 8.2uF and 12uF cap. A higher cap figure higher then 10uF wouldn’t be detrimental to the speakers? Perhaps 15uF 3. What is the function to the 20 ohm resistor across the HIGH range terminals and what effect would varying this resistor make? Once again thanks for your assistance in advance. AdrianT

Finally implemented the suggested improvements (thank Pete) and wow what an impact. I’ve made the mod easily removable so that I’ve been able to compare between std & modded speakers. As previously stated, I had noticed that there is a definite lack of bass especially at low volume level and as the volume levels increase the bass response lifts but it lagged the level required to match the tweeters and mids. With mod the bass response has come alive. Where previously the 10” woofer was a lazy freeloader making little contribution and now it's earning its keep. The bass is now evident where once it was missing, drums and bass guitar feature prominently vocals & lead guitar are somewhat dampened. I’m pleased with the improvement and heartened with the fact that there is some real scope to get the most out of the 310HO however I feel that the pendulum has overshot the mark by say 20% over the ideal balanced point which suits my ear. What scope is there to “tune” the mod. Is there some scope to say adjust the resistor or capacitor to soften the bass response a touch and or raise the tweeter and to a lesser extent the mids. I would love to get an explanation of how the mod was designed and what would be the effect of changing the rating of the components. AdrianT

Thanks for the reply. I'm running a Rega Elicit-R amp rated at 105WPC into 8 Ohm with a Pro-Ject TT and Denon CD player. This amp is a relatively new purchase and it is showing up the speakers deficiencies. I've sourced the parts required from an Australian Speaker parts retailer which stocks Dayton Audio components. Once I've made the mods I will post my thoughts. I'm planning to make the mod as a plug in feature so doing a comparison shouldn't be to hard to do. Adrian T

I’ve come across topic and I’m keen to try these mods on my AR 310 HO speakers as I was looking to improve the bass response. As outlined in the tread I’ve noticed that there is a definite lack of bass especially at low volume level. As the volume levels increase the bass response lifts but I’ve always felt that it lagged the level required to match the tweeters and mids. I was wondering if I can have some guidance before I implement the mods as I’m keen to avoid damaging my gear from getting the instructions or components wrong. Would the following parts be suitable: - 20 ohm 10W resistor Would a wire-wound or metal-oxide film resistor be suitable and what is the recommended VDC capacity. I’ve noticed that 18 ohm or 22 ohm audio grade resistors are more readily available. Would these be ok to substitute with these on should one use two resistors in series or parallel to achieve the required resistance or as close a possible. Would this resister be suitable Dayton Audio DNR-20 20 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor - 4 ohm 20W resistor Would a wire-wound cement resistor be suitable and what is the recommended VDC capacity. - 10 uF poly or mylar cap Would the following cap be suitable or any other recommendation Dayton Audio dmpc -10 10uF 250VDC Polypropylene Capacitor High Current capacity. Finally I’m just a little unsure on a couple of connection details. I’ve indicated below where I’m seeking some clarification. Procedure: 1. Remove the biwire input strap on the + terminals. 2. Put a 20 ohm 10W resistor across the HI range terminals. i.e. across the + ve & -ve terminal of the Hi range terminals. 3. Put a 4 ohm 20W resistor from the woofer + to the HI range +. 4. Put a 10 uF poly or mylar cap from the woofer + to the HI range +. Is the Cap in parallel with the 4 ohm 20W resistor or in series. 5. Wire the Amp to the Woofer input terminals. Assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Adrian T