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About JayRd7

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  1. Hi RTally, Thanks for the further confirmation on these, I appreciate it! Best, -Jay
  2. Perfect! Thanks for the clarification, and yes I ordered the genuine stuff off of eBay that I used for my restore a few months back. No worries on any monkey wrenches, better safe than sorry. Any ideas on the voice coils? Thanks again! -Jay
  3. Thanks very much for the info ra.ra, I'm hoping that's what this is! Here is a more closeup photo. There does appear to be a couple of larger globs of this stuff here and there, hoping that doesn't make a difference - just want to be sure I can safely apply the AR vintage sealant stuff as I know these speakers haven't been touched in maybe 15-20 years. I also had a question about the voice coils - when I press down gently and evenly around the woofer, I hear some intermittent rubbing which concerns me. I pulled this cab apart before I even had the chance to test them. I did however do an ohm test and I'm getting a steady reading of 3.5 ohms on the woofer which I believe would indicate the voice coil is intact, but any suggestions about the rubbing? Thanks!
  4. Ok good to know, I'll take a look when I get home and see what the texture is like and I'll try to post an up-close picture of it.
  5. Very nice!! Thanks for the info as always, must have just been a different "flavor" out of the factory - the only ones I've worked on have been tan colored. It was interesting taking these ones apart and seeing some subtle differences between them and mine - back in the days where mostly everything was done by hand and not a fully automated assembly line.
  6. Have a pair of Model 20s I’m restoring for a friend. The woofers have black surrounds - I’ve seen these on some eBay listings as well. Was this a factory thing, or a re-seal done at some point in time? Thanks for any help!
  7. A labor of love, but oh so worth it! They sound and look incredible! I thought they sounded amazing before, but wow I'm pretty blown away. These really are magical speakers, there's something so lifelike and real about them, but at the same time with a musical character and warmth. They seem to be airtight now, especially the crossover plate which was the biggest offender before the restore - there is a bit of a delay now on the woofer return after pressing in, whereas before it was pretty much instantaneous, but I wonder if there should be more. The AR sealant guide said KLH's might need two coats, but I didn't want to overdo it. Maybe I'll post a video of it to get a better idea from you all. The bass response is definitely improved though, nice deep, tight and defined low end now, whereas before it was more boxy and smeared sounding. A huge thanks to Kent and the others who gave advice guiding me through my first restoration. I've got the bug now, I think my next goal is to hunt down some 5's in need of some TLC!
  8. The two rings that I marked red in this photo had Mortite on them (this particular picture doesn't show any Mortite residue on the inner ring but elsewhere there was a lot) so I wasn't sure if I needed to do both or just the outer ring. If all goes well I should have this done tonight! Pictures to come! Thanks, -Jared
  9. Awesome, thanks for the info! I got the second cabinet as far along as the first one now. Grille cloths are done and came out beautifully with that Irish linen. Now waiting on the caps to come in today so I can redo the crossover, then I should be ready to re-pack everything and seal the woofer with the duct seal. So I should roll little snakes and place them around the inner and outer rings of where the woofer sits? How thick in diameter? Or should I just cover every part of it and mold it into place with my hands? I used craft foam and cut out a ring for the tweeter that fits nicely. I'll post some final pictures when it's all said and done! Thanks again, -Jared
  10. Thanks everyone for chiming in! I bought the 8.2 caps, can't see the extra bit causing any real noticeable difference in sound (I hope right?), and regardless, I've never even enjoyed these speakers to their full potential since I've owned them as none of this work was ever done, so I know I'm in for a treat no matter what. From an audio perspective I'm curious, what would the extra 0.2 do in terms of the crossover, does it allow more HF to pass through to the tweeter, or restrict it, or something else entirely? Thanks for the suggestion on the grilles, I will try to be delicate and hopefully won't destroy the Masonite trying to get all of the staples out. I may end up gluing as well based on what you said, unless I can find some short staples. Those Seventeens look fantastic! It's funny that the 20s didn't have a badge, but I noticed in the Masonite on mine there appears to be a pre-fab'd hole where one might go, as I'm sure they used the same grille boards for both these models. I have one cabinet pretty far along now, just need to wait on the crossover caps, but I used the Howard Restore-a-Finish followed by the Feed-n-Wax on it last night, and wow I couldn't believe what I had been missing out on all these years.It looks practically brand new. I have some chips in the wood here and there but that'll be an advanced project for me for a different time. And, finally got some pictures! Cabinets with and without the finish, woofer before surround treatment, gaps in the cabinet box that I ended up wood gluing and applying a thick bead of liquid nails to, the worn out tweeter foam, scraped off old Mortite from the woofer, and the incorrect crossover!
  11. I'm going to go with the Daytons for the recap, only thing is, Parts Express has the 2uF Daytons, but only has 8.2uF Daytons, not 8.0 (in fact I didn't see any 8.0 polys on there), will this make a difference? Thanks! Edit: Did some googling and looks like that should still be in spec with the original? However, is the 250V on these ok?
  12. Thanks Kent, appreciate you taking the time to respond while you're on the road. I had a feeling the caps were off, I think while I have this all apart I might as well just recap. What types of caps last the longest? I'm willing to spend more for the best quality. Do the Daytons indeed sound "brighter?" Good call on the plate, that sounds like it'll do the trick, and thanks for the suggestion on the linen. In terms of taking off the old cloth and the 100 staples on it, would it be a better idea to cut the old cloth off around the backside, just leaving the back strip of old cloth and staples in place, and then putting the new cloth over that? I've also treated the woofer surround with the vintage AR sealant, looks like 1 coat will probably do the trick, but I'll do the pressure test on the woofer once everything is back in place and see how the travel time is, and if it's too quick I'll try another very light coat after checking for other leaks. Will try and resize the pics later to post. Thanks! -Jared
  13. I finally got some time to begin restoring the 20's! Here's what I've done so far on one speaker: -Removed and scraped off as much of the old Mortite as I could from where the woofer sits. -Removed everything from the cabinet (tweeter, insulation, crossover) and used Timber-Grip wood glue and ran a bead along all of the interior edges of the cabinet. I then used a toothpick to work as much glue as I could into the seams. I didn't have a clamp, but I read about someone using a couple ratchet straps so I gave that a shot and it seemed to have worked pretty well. I might do another bead of glue just to be safe or something like liquid nails, and also do the exterior rear panel seams as well, what do you think? -The crossover doesn't appear to be quite what everyone else has going on. I don't know a ton about capacitors, but my crossover (that was recapped by the previous owner) has one 2UF-50V mylitic on the main plate and then a cap going to the tweeter that says "+8MFD-50V+" Is this correct? The speakers work fine and sound great (but maybe could sound even better?), any need to make a change here? How much do caps play a role in how these things sound? I read somewhere that someone complained that the Dayton caps made their 17s too bright sounding. I guess I want them to sound as close to original as possible. -The yellow foam gasket around the tweeter is completely flattened and falling apart, so I will probably use duct seal per your suggestion when reseating it, along with the woofer, or perhaps the craft foam for the tweeter and duct seal for the woofer. -The nails/staples on the crossover plate are pretty much non-existent at this point. The crossover was held in with two screws and some masking tape haha, and this was a major source of air leakage before I took the speaker apart. What would you recommend to reseat and seal this plate back on? Perhaps some kind of epoxy? I'm ok with it being permanent as long as it's airtight. -I'd like to shine up the walnut veneer on the exterior, and I've heard Howard Restore-A-Finish works really well applied with 0000 steel wool. -My cloth grilles are in ok shape but one of them is a bit ripped where my old cat got to them. The cloth also feels pretty stiff and I wonder if that's from age or if that's how they always were, and how much that might affect the performance of the speaker. There is definitely some resistance when I blow air from one side to the other. Has anyone ever put new fabric on these and what would you suggest? Alright, that's all for now!(I tried attaching pictures, but they all say Upload Failed - is there a filesize limit? They're all around 800 kb.) Thanks all, -Jared
  14. Kent, thank you so much for all of the info! I will try and take things apart today or tomorrow and send along some pictures of what I have going on. A quick clarifying question - -When putting the sealant on the dust caps, I cover the entire cap including the edge/seal where it meets the speaker cone? In your picture it looks as though there's some sealant beyond that on the speaker cone itself too? I also am recalling that the last time I took these speakers apart, several of the screw holes for the woofer were pretty stripped out. I remember doing the very crude trick of stuffing the holes with toothpicks to get the screws to grip, which worked, but I'm wondering if there's a better way. Would it be worth it to drill new holes, or is that too risky, and would also potentially create a poor seal for the woofer, unless I filled the old holes with something? Thanks for the links and suggestions on the duct seal, I will definitely be picking some of that up as if I remember there wasn't much of that left on the speakers. Thanks again, will get back soon with some pictures! All the best, -Jared
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