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batchman

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About batchman

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  1. batchman

    ADS L1090 tweeters

    That's great, the forum comes through for you! I will correct myself though, no fuse on the woofer - just mid and tweet. Spares are good to have - especially if you start to really enjoy them ;). Padding the high level down will help that fuse but not a lot... Happy Listening, - Jeff
  2. batchman

    ADS L1090 tweeters

    Congrats on a great find! Step one, check for a blown fuse. Not having 1090s myself I'm not sure there is one, but the models above had separate fuses for low and mid/high, with fractional values that are hard to find (and easy to blow). In "series 2" they replaced at least the mid/high with a polyswitch (self-resetting circuit breaker). If that is not the problem, nose around a bit and you'll find Richard So performing just the service you'd need. He was on eBay when I used him, not sure about now. Best, - Jeff
  3. Hi Paul, The Apt1s were awesome amps, even more so bridged. That's exactly how the 980/1290/1590 and xx30 in-cabinet passive crossovers work in bi-amp mode. I think there is much misunderstanding of how to do this. With the crossover switch set to bi-amp, the low input goes directly to woofer; mid/high to the midrange/tweeter integral crossover. To get the benefit in terms of amplifier headroom you need to split the spectrum before amplifying though. I use dbx pro-sound pieces, 223x if I recall correctly, set to split at the frequency of the ADS internal low/mid-high brea
  4. Not sure what components were used pre-1500, but from early 1800s to near modern era* most of the capacitors in my numerous crossovers are not of the type to cause concern (I do think I recall one, but not which box it was in ;)). It is however pretty easy to check as a failing electrolytic cap will be discolored or deformed (should be a nice uniform aluminum cylinder) or show leaking dielectric around it. They are usually pretty easy to change, so long as the original sleeve markings are discernible for matching values and ratings; Newark Electronics often has reasonable costs for these and
  5. All that said, I'm not going back ;). I will however agree there are ways to screw up bi-amp implementation, even though it really is not difficult "people can find a way". First is the outboard crossover, which must be set to the center frequency of the internal crossover. To do this correctly requires knowing that frequency and using a crossover set specifically to that. The crossover should have a steeper rolloff than the internal one (12dB/octave). Second is the power amplifiers themselves. All the channels must be identical. Preferably with no gain adjustments - just amplif
  6. To swtuggle, I suspect you're considering the outboard and in-cabinet crossovers as additive, they are not. If my post was not clear, my pre-amplification crossover at 24dB/octave rolloff ensures that the in-cabinet crossover gets all the signal that is intended for it, given a correct match in spectrum setting. To Gerry S, I believe that reason for my change in perceived performance was not from amplifier clipping, as I have heard plenty of that in my time, but due to amplifier headroom - the high slew-rate/delta-A demands no longer need to contend between bands. I will continue to bel
  7. batchman

    ADS L1590

    Power is not likely the issue. Everybody gets the same channel, 8x200wrms (4 corners bi-amped), and yes, each 20A capable. Why yes, that is a lot of heatsink, now that you mention it... The maths say the 1590s are superior, and I'm not changing my room to prove or disprove it, but I could not blow out a match with the 1590s. Guess I'll keep tryin' ;). Cheers, - Jeff
  8. batchman

    ADS L1590

    I guess it shows ;). Guilty as charged. Yourself? And FWIW, the only 12" driver I've liked for reproducing bass is (drum roll), the L-980. (I play through 15"s, with a side order of 4x10" for "treble pickup moments")
  9. Perhaps the reason I did not have that problem is my crossover uses a 24dB/octave rolloff. I expect this allows full (relevant) bandwidth to each passive x-over in the cabinet. It is not expensive to try - a used dbx 223 is pretty reasonable (and largely indestructible), you just need to be able to sort out your connectors. All I had to do was adapt RCA to 1/4" TS, but some versions are XLR so make sure you know the back panel of what you're buying. In my case I was not able to A/B my L980s, it was the 1590s that "woke up". I had felt those were underwhelming beforehand, never had
  10. More than once I have been tempted to take a strip of masking tape and try to pull some fur off my mids & tweets. However, I have always stopped short as it is said it does not affect performance, and since my sticky drivers do sound great, I have not let my OCD get to me. Yet. Your ability to hold off may vary, - Jeff
  11. batchman

    ADS L1590

    Hi Tom, It's late and I lack the time to line-item reply, but my suspicion here is it could easily be "all about the room". Thanks for the treatise, but I will have to agree to disagree on bi-amping not improving sound quality (try it, you'll like it!). My 1590s did not fully impress until I did that, with no other changes - same amp in bridge mode switched to 4 channel, and this amp's stats are unusually linear in both cases. I will stand corrected on my sweep example - which by the way was done at ADS - looking at it in clear light that surely must be the crossover, anechoic rooms as
  12. batchman

    ADS L1590

    Welcome to the discussion! The cast baskets on ADS woofers seem to age very well, see attached. Removing them will require a stout hook to grab through a screw hole. The cabinets are well designed also. I've had some boxes that "contribute to non-linearity", but never from ADS (or a/d/s for that matter). I have heard of some success with adding acoustic foam to the front baffle, but not been tempted (yet) to try that myself. Cheers! - Jeff
  13. batchman

    ADS L1590

    OK, I'll bite - you have me curious. My impressions are from owning both, although some of the arguments are moot as at extended levels either box will drive the tweeters into protection - the limiting factor. I'd be doing A/B listening comparisons right now to confirm (I am actually wired for that), but my wife is home ;). In my system, if I were running only the 1590s, I would want a subwoofer. With the 980s, I run a sub only for protection... I had attributed the difference to excursion, curious to hear they're similarly spec'ed. Always appeared visually different to my eye, and r
  14. batchman

    ADS L1590

    Well, as a bass player of over 40 years, I can tell you that the L1590s produce a nice smooth bass line, very very nicely. But the L980s move air like the 1590s cannot even dream of. They can break things . I run both currently, with 200wrms into each path biamped. Power handling spec is the same (yes, I exceed it some) but the result is different. I suspect the damping factor in my amps are contributing to both success at that, and the result. I will say you can hurt the 980 woofers with too much sub-synth content, but only a bass player (deef) would do that ... Cheers,
  15. Glad it went well for you, there were folks "in the day" who felt the 1290s produced better imaging than the 1590s due to the narrower width. Cheers, - Jeff
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