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patrickw

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  1. Hello Doug, Thank you for all your insights! This is really helpful. And thank you for sharing Pete Basel's site, I certainly learned a lot from that resource. I am back to finally to these speakers. I opened them up for the first time tonight and found another interesting thing. They both have the same crossover, however the one with the metal frame woofer and original tweeter had a 16uF cap connected to the common terminal, but the caps connected to the brightness switch (or tweeter switch, whatever it should be called) were two 8uf caps. The one speaker with the original woofer had two 16uf caps. All of the caps were the black with red end non polarized type, all 50v. So interesting that Advent also used different cap values. I wonder if when the woofer was replaced they replaced the one 16uf cap to two 8uf caps. I am ordering up some new caps and I am going to go with just 16uf to keep it simple. I am also thinking of buying one masonite woofer off eBay, just to have the woofers the same. Am I wrong, or do the two different types of woofers have a different configuration for the foam. I know the masonite woofers have inverted foam. But from what I can tell the steel frame woofer has outward facing foam. That discrepancy makes me think I should just go with two original woofers. Thanks again! Patrick
  2. Hi Doug, Thanks for the informative reply! I do appreciate it. So it would seem like my hunch that some drivers have been replaced and updated was correct. Interesting that the cage free tweeters are the original. All the ones I looked at recently had cages so I assumed that was the original. I agree with you, the most important thing is to get them operational. Do you know if the crossover changed with these original drivers? I saw the Human Speakers page — https://www.humanspeakers.com/o/advent-large.htm — and it made it seem like the crossover evolves as the drivers evolve. Like you suggest, my instinct was to replace old caps with like values of new poly caps. I am going to do some testing of these (I have not plugged them in yet due to the gone surrounds) and see exactly what I have in terms of functioning speakers. I will keep folks updated. Thanks!!
  3. I picked up this pair of Original Large Advent. Or at least I think they are. I do not know my Advents that well. I have not opened these up yet. Obviously they need new surrounds and I was also going to replace the caps while I was at it. And I had plans on lightly sanding and oiling the cabinets to make them sparkle again. They have identical intact tags that say Advent Loudspeaker on back with serial #s M 01535 and M 3057. As you can see from the photos, they look identical with the grilles on, but off one has the Masonite woofer and the cage over the tweeter. The person I got them from (part of a larger deal) said he bought them from the original owner and never got around to updating them, now he was moving houses and decided to sell rather than fix them up. My question is, could one of these been refurbished and thus had drivers updated? Does it matter that the drivers are different? I would not think the different drivers were a manufacturing change when they are only 1500 apart in serial numbers. I assume with such close numbers they would have the same drivers. My thought was to get the correct surrounds and just replace the foams. My understating is that both of these woofers, despite the difference in rings, take the same replacement foam. Secondly, with the different drivers, would the crossover be different? Lastly, should I just replace the drivers in the one speaker with a masonite woofer and tweeter with the cage? Certainly I can find replacement woofers and tweeters on eBay. The cabinets look close enough that replacing the drivers would create a visually identical set. But would they sound identical? These photos are from the seller. I can post more photos if needed. Thanks in advance of any insights! —Patrick
  4. Thank you for this! I was just looking for this exact manual to help me with placement. Much appreciated!
  5. I am looking for an AR-2 woofer. I am searching for an original, (not 2a or 2ax) with a 10 in cloth surround woofer with a cast aluminum frame. Any one have an extra they wish to sell?
  6. Glenn, I am very happy with the 3A and I am excited to get these up and performing at their best. I just put up photos on my thread here. Please chime in with any insights or wisdom you have. I know you have a few of these under your belt... Best, Patrick
  7. Here are the 3As I promised to post about. I am going to open these up and I hope to get them electronically restored and updated when I have some downtime before the new year. I bought the Solen PP 6uF caps and Bennic NPE 50uf and 150uF. I don't know how the pots are looking but they do cause static as I move them and intermittent sound when I play music through them. They need to find a sweet spot where the signal comes through so I know they need some attention. If they are badly corroded I did buy L-pads from PE to use as a backup. One thing that is obvious is that one of the mid-range drivers has been replaced and rewired in a funky way. I think it is a correct mid-range for a 3A (Image A.13 in the Restoring 3A pdf) but from a later year. I am not sure if the wiring of it like this is recommended. Or if people would recommend searching for a the exact match of the other speaker to be put in. I am curious to hear opinions. The woofers look in great shape. And they are low serials, 3085 and 3088. The cabinets are in pretty good shape except for some munched corners (ouch!) but I have some veneer I can work with. The grills are in great shape. One badge still has its protective plastic on it. First the electronics and then on to the cosmetics.
  8. I appreciate both of you chiming in. I am going to order those terminals from PE for when I decide to do the recap on the AR-78LS. Stay tuned for the 3A thread. I have the photos, I just have not opened them up yet.
  9. Those look great. Thank you! Thanks for the info on the schematic, ra.ra. I love your classic solution for the binding posts!
  10. Sorry for the questions of noob, but in your schematic that you posted would the 3uF, 5uF and 24uF be the series values, while the 60uF and 12uF be the shunt/parallel values? I would not want to buy the wrong caps. I am attaching a photo of the terminals. I think I would have to look for binding posts that might work as a replacement for the whole unit.
  11. I have only dug into the first speaker as of now, the one with the woofer that was not working. And now I need some help. I tested the bad woofer with the a 9 volt battery and I got it to emit noises and pops. That made me confident that there was not a fundamental issue. So I switched out the L-pad and hooked everything back up and everything sounded great. But then bass notes were making it rumble and suddenly it stopped. I disconnected the speaker, and removed the woofer and could see no damage on it. I then pushed it in and out a few times and reconnected it. It worked again, intermittently. Hmmm... So I headed here and over to AK and I saw that it could be an issue with the spider or the voice coil. However I could not spot anything obvious. No tears, no separations. So now it works sporadically. If I press a little bit on the woofer, about 1/4 in, I can get it to work. If I leave it alone it works intermittently. Here is a shot of it. Do any of those with lots more AR woofer experience have any thoughts? Is the woofer toast? Is it something with the voice coil that I cannot see? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! -Patrick
  12. Here is a few photos of the work on the first one. I used the 3M Safest Stripper and let it sit for about 90 min. I scraped it all off once, then another coat and scraped it off again. Then sanded, 220, 400 600 and I am happy with how it looks. I am going hit it with Danish oil to seal it.
  13. Indeed. I am pretty happy with the speakers and I do think it is a very fine loudspeaker. I did not mean to imply that I felt I was hoodwinked. More I was like you, a bit skeptical when I was told of the claim that the speaker was an update of the 3A. As a large three-way speaker I could see the basis for making that assumption. But honestly I was not expecting much from these speakers, knowing they came from the later era of AR, and especially since the first time I hooked them up I was not blown away. But they keep sounding better. And the more I poke around and turn over rocks looking for info, the more I see that these were well engineered, top of the line loudspeakers. They truly sound sweet.
  14. Yes, in one sense they were free. Or you could say that I bought these at their for original 1983 prices of $900 and received a free pair of 3As that need a little work. Thanks for the schematic. Has anyone re-capped these? The other thing I am noticing is that the speaker terminals are not the best. Has anyone had experience replacing those on this era of AR speakers? Are there recommended products to update the terminals? Ideally I would like terminal binding posts that could accept banana plugs. Thanks! -Patrick
  15. Funnily enough that is exactly what the guy who was selling the 3A's told me, that I was getting the original 3A plus the updated version of the 3A. I don't have my 3As running yet (they work, but there are a few weak points to be detailed in another thread when I get to them...), so I am really enjoying the sound of these.
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