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About bigx5murf

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  1. Upon receiving the HD13d34, it was immediately obvious it couldn't just be dropped intho the Thiels. The magnet was significantly larger. I then went on to carefully transfer the diaphragm and voice coils over the original magnets, which went without a hitch. Both tweeters measured 6.8ohm when complete. Finally I turned my attention to the crossover. Far as I can see, all the caps are =/-20% tolerance. There were only w electrolytic caps on each crossover, so I opted to only replace those. They are 50uf 100v, and 4.7uf 50v. I used PE Dayton 5% caps as replacements. The crossover is a lot
  2. I finished restoring these a couple of weeks ago, and have been listening to them everyday since. They really are a superb speaker, and I encourage anyone who finds a pair to put in the work to get working. The sound signature is on the bright side of neutral. The highs are really detailed, yet there's little if any siblance. The bass is there, but it's on the polite side, and is actually quite impressive considering they're produced by what amounts to a 6" woofer. Anyway, I figured I'd document this to help out anyone who finds a pair. I'll start with the woofers. Don't try to find surr
  3. I'm just in the planning stages of my next speaker resto project. So far I've restretched and reglued the parts of the grill that were peeling away. The woofers both need a refoam, but the sizing is really weird, anyone know a source for needed surrounds? 6" outer edge to outer edge for surround 4.25" outer edge to outer edge for cone Anyone know if the tweeters need ferrofluid, or any info on recapping the crossover? I've heard Thiels have overly complex crossovers.
  4. My pair had foam surrounds. I ended up just rubbing a layer of howard's walnut on these, and I'm happy with them as is. Been using them ever since, and am still surprised by how good they sound. I actually have mine on 3' stands, which is probably not the recommended way to position them. I've been using these on a system that lets me switch between 4 sets of speakers, they're as followed ADS L710, EPI 100v, Polk SDA-2B, and Sony APM 690. Yes that's the order I prefer them in.
  5. The crossover on these is extremely simple, a 10uF capacitor, who's only function is to limit the low frequencies to the tweeter. The woofer is supposed to run all out. Without the specs of the cambridge woofer, no one can really tell you. Your best bet is to use a measurement mic to check the response as the speaker is now.
  6. bigx5murf

    EPi 100 woofers?

    They do show up on ebay all the time, but they're from multiple series, and there's significant difference from each series. I tried buying one before, and the cones were locked up despite resistance on muti meter being fine. Human Speaker has a modern replacement, although it's a bit pricey. If you want to use something off the shelf, you'll want something that tops out at 1800Hz, and need a measurement mic to check the levels, then try to make a simple crossover to either lower the woofer, or tweeter output till you have flat response. Figure out what's wrong with your curren
  7. Should I do that to all panels? One panel on each is actually in very good shape, the top, and outer panels are very faded.
  8. I found a pair of L710 in somewhat rough shape at goodwill for $15 a week ago. I've been slowly working on them as time permitted. So far, I've... 1-refoamed all 4 woofers, they were completely disintegrated, these were very difficult to align with test tones, took a few tries each, except for one which I got the first try. 2-replaced the 90uF cap on the crossover, this was surprisingly difficult to find. I ended up running a 68uF and 22uF cap in parallel instead. 3-Installed 5 way binding posts. This was difficult to find ones long enough to work. The only ones I found were fr
  9. Looking to sell my AR Holographic Imaging M2 bookshelf speakers and MC1 center speaker. The M2, have some cosmetic issues, particular on two corner, one dust cap tore, and was repaired with rubber cement, grills have various small fraying. Stands in pictures not included (attached with stick tack, not screws). I'm looking for $200 shipped to lower 48 states. Local pickup in Las Vegas for $150 All reasonable offers considered
  10. I finally got to refoaming these, life got in the way. Anyway, the two long screws holding the thing together, had what looked like drinking straws guiding them through the stuffing. Looked like someone else might've been inside before me. But I'm pretty certain I'm the first to refoam it, and the screws holding the woofer in don't have any bit marks on them. So I wonder if the factory really cut up drinking straws for assembly. I found one of the capacitors with a disconnected lead, the glue holding the cap in place gave up. But a quick drop of solder fixed that. Testing them out on a 5
  11. A friend of mine that DJs, told me the mount looks like pro PA speaker mounts. Sent me this link for wall mounts. https://www.adorama.com/pypstndw15.html?gclid=CjwKEAiA8dDEBRDf19yI97eO0UsSJAAY_yCSqG6LSbk-DJ0LnYk6X2uhlGj0Wq3I0nHVRSEa1Cp4GhoCD3vw_wcB I ordered some 4" surrounds, just waiting on them for now. I'll get some disassembly pics up hopefully this weekend.
  12. I found a pair of these thrift shopping, and thought they'd go great in my home theater setup (AR holographic imaging M2 + AR MC1 center), as rear surrounds. They're built like rocks, with what looks like automotive quality wrinkle paint job. But they need some work, I can see through the grill, the foam surrounds rotted. But I have no idea what size surrounds, they look like they might be the same woofers inside my MC1 center. I have can't figure out how to remove the grills. Also, they look like they're supposed to have some sort of brackets. Could use some ideas on how to wall mount th
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