grichards

Hello JKent, Could you please break down a part of your repair for someone with no experience changing caps/film(?)/etc. I don't even have a soldering iron yet. I'm not even sure where to buy the materials to fix my JBL L46. Based on the picture you included I'm guessing that the left is before and the right is the after. (Correct?) I re-foamed the pair after purchasing them 3 months ago and they have sounded wonderful, but this week, the right woofer has crapped out (rumble/rattle/or nothing) and my troubleshooting process has led me past my comfort level and into the realm of...things that may need to be replaced and soldered. Any guidance/detailed breakdown of your repair description below would be much appreciated. Many thanks, Gregg The L46 appears in a 1982 JBL brochure. Because the NPE capacitors are over 30 years old I decided to replace them with film. Each xo has two 14uF caps and one 7uF. In addition there are 0.0038 film bypass caps on 2 of the NPEs (according to the brochure; "The network makes use of polypropylene bypass capacitors for better resolution of complex transient waveforms, and therefore clearer, more accurate sound." I doubt it but I left the bypass caps in place. YMMV). I replaced the NPEs with caps I had on hand: A Madisound "surplus" 10uF + two "surplus" 2uF caps for one of the 14s, a 10uF surplus plus a Dayton 4uF for the other and a Carli 6.8uF + a Nichicon 0.2 for the 7. Side note: I really like the surplus 10uF caps but the surplus 2uF caps have maddeningly short leads! No mistaking polarity on JBL drivers. The + terminal is male and the - is female (or maybe the other way around, but you can't make a mistake!).