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About snhirsch

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  1. Ah, thanks. I read the box too quickly - it does clearly say 'HIGHRANGE'. :-).
  2. I found two NOS units in the original boxes (one opened to check contents, one still sealed). Curious what system they were for?
  3. Thanks, Charles. I had a terrible experience with the local UPS store a few years ago and would never trust them to pack anything of value. They charged me almost $100 on top of UPS freight costs to pack a 50+ year old Gibson guitar in ATA case. The box was completely inadequate and arrived ripped in half. Only the ATA case prevented the loss of a $5k instrument.. I found all the appropriate boxes and corners through web searches, but they all sell in ginormous quantities and won't do onesy-twosies. Very frustrating.
  4. I'm at the point where I need to start selling off some older AR speakers. The biggest obstacle I see is packing material! Most of these were shipped double-boxed with custom corner protection to center the inner box. Where do folks obtain suitable sizes and small quantities? Even the office suppliers like Uline have a 25 piece minimum order _per_size_! Any advice or pointers will be greatly appreciated.
  5. Heh. The cigar ashes might have been a critical ingredient of the "secret sauce" used to caulk the enclosure.
  6. Good call on the spots. I lightly rubbed one near the edge and the mildew flaked off - leaving a slightly bleached out region.
  7. It appears to be a blind rabbet. Using a piece of card stock as a feeler gauge, it stops at 3/8". I'm going to talk to a couple of high-end cabinet makers in the area and see what they recommend. Clamping the unit would entail considerable pressure and I'd be very concerned about the stress loosening a corner joint and making a bad situation worse.
  8. I don't know anything about the AR-1 cabinet construction and am loathe to disassemble the unit. The joint isn't obviously leaking, but you can feel more vibration at that point when under high drive levels. There is no audible buzzing or resonance that I'm able to detect. I'm probably going to offer the unit "as is" and let the next owner decide if it's something they want to mess with.
  9. Here's a few more photos. One is a closeup of the panel separation. Looks like the Grand Canyon in a close-up, but is actually small enough that you'd have trouble getting wood glue to flow into it. The paraffin idea has some merit, but I'm not going to dive into anything. The grillcloth closeup shows the mildew spotting (also visible on the rear connector plate). Notice the "boomerang" shaped jumper for tweeter level. Looks to be cut from thin copper stock by hand with a pair of tin snips! This speaker is likely one tiny step from a manufacturing prototype.
  10. I thought I had previously uploaded some photos, but will be glad post a new round. Would be interested in feedback about: 1. Tiny separation between rear panel and top / bottom of enclosure. Do I try to fix this? If so, how? Flow in glue and clamp? Leave it alone? Other? 2. Small mildew spots on grill cloth. What will take them out? I thought about white vinegar but would be good to hear from folks with more experience. Based on the photo of an auction piece, I'm betting many (if not all) speakers of this vintage have a slight shrinkage of the rear panel. The way the
  11. Yes, that's exactly what it is. No mystery there. I have all the Audio League report folders and correspondence. This speaker almost certainly took part in the original "Live vs. Recorded" demonstration. My father, Mr. Houck and a few others presented a program where a bank of AR-1 speakers playing a tape of a pipe organ was A-B'ed against a live organist. Tom Dowd of Atlantic Records assisted in the reference recording and quite a lot technical preparation went into the event.
  12. That's not quite the same as mine. See photo below (Henry's signature still survives in the lower right). The speaker seems fully operational! I should add that I'm finally prepared to sell the unit. I would rather have it live out it's days in the hands of an enthusiast than languishing in storage.
  13. That's a bit different from the hole pattern on mine, but same idea. There is a little confusion as to which terminals should be jumpered for full range operation on mine. The terminals are labeled in pen as A, "D" and C (looks like my Dad's handwriting), but I'm thinking the D was supposed to be B. The arrangement shown in your photo would probably not be correct on my unit. I'm going to proceed carefully to avoid damaging the tweeter. My speaker shows the same slight separation between the rear panel and the top and bottom as seen in the above photo. I believe that's a result of th
  14. Thanks so much! I'm amazed this device is still operational after 62 years. I swept the woofer at about 5 watts input and it rattled shelves in the shop below 50 Hz.
  15. I have a very early AR1 that belonged to my father, Julian Hirsch - have posted here before about the unit. Finally got around to putting it on the bench and taking a closer look. It appears to be fully operational, but I'm scratching my head over the (7) binding posts on the rear connection plate. The instruction sheet is not intact enough to get the full picture and I cannot seem to find any information on line. Does anyone have a good photo or PDF of the connection information? This particular unit is serial # 147 and was hand-delivered by Henry Kloss in 1954 or 55. It has a cust
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