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jarussel

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About jarussel

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 03/13/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Monterey, CA
  • Interests
    International politics; women; vintage stereo equipment.

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  • Yahoo
    jrussll@yahoo.com
  1. Dan: OK -- I'll give it a try. Thanks for the suggestion.
  2. I need a REAR WIRED AR-5 midrange to finish off a restoration. I've got a front wired one -- but can't bring myself to drill a hole in the front panel of the speaker. Thanks
  3. Roy: Thanks for the feedback. I have a front-wired 5 mid that i got from Vintage AR, but would like to replace it with a rear-wired one -- the configuration for this cabinet/production model. I can't bring myself to drill a hole in the speaker front to feed the wires thru.
  4. I have been waiting patiently for an rear-wired AR-5 midrange to show up on e-bay to finish up an AR 5 restoration project. There is now one up with a part number 2000101-1. The seller has a reading from his tester that reads 3.3, which makes me think it's a 4-ohm mid for an AR-3a. Could someone smarter than me please look at this posting and tell what I'm looking at? http://www.ebay.com/itm/AR-5-Tweeter-200010-1-may-fit-others-acoustic-research-/181085633197?_trksid=p2046732.m2060&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D5776883055201133137%26pid%3D100040
  5. I am selling a pair of restored AR-3a speakers for $800 plus shipping. These are late 1960s, early 1970s vintage. They were a mess when I got them and have been completely restored: crossovers rewired with Erse capacitors, Ohmite volume controls that will not corrode, new HiVi tweeters purchased from Vintage AR, professonally reconed woofers that are now brand new, cabinets that have been stripped and sanded and finished in the classic AR rubbed oil finish; new grill cloth. The original tweeters will be provided if the purchaser wants. I think the new tweeters significantly improve the hi-
  6. I did it -- took care of the problem. Scraped off the red stuff the coil wire. Now I have a new problem -- I put new L pads in my second AR-5 and now nothing out of the damn tweeter. If it isn't one thing it's another. The tweeter is fine -- something wrong with damn wiring, I guess. I repeat by call for help -- ON MY NEW PROBLEM.....
  7. I am restoring a pair of AR-5s. Installed new L pads; am positive I wired them right; put in new Dayton Caps; fired the damn thing up and nothing -- I mean nothing out of the midrange. I've included a picture below of the new crossover/L-Pads. I've done a pair of 3As -- which work great. It's not the midrange -- it worked fine before. Any suggestions? Could it be to connection from the coil wire to the mid-Lpad? I soldered a connecting wire to give me more room. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Short of redoing everything, I'm not sure how to proceed -- except maybe just re-solder
  8. I replaced the tweeters in a set of 3As I'm restoring, but there is no indication either on removed tweeter or on the front posts which side is meant to be positive. I have a 50 percent chance of being right, I guess. Anyone have any tips on which of the posts would be positive? Was there a standard wiring configuration for these? It looked like the wires were crossed on the old tweeter in the hookup to the front posts. Does it make a difference?
  9. Wish I knew how to operate this kind of gear to measure performance. i bought and one of these ohm/voltage meters and I can't seem to get to work. I just did a 2AX rehab, refoam, new caps and volume controls from Vintage AR and also just bought new tweeters -- again from Vintage AR. They sound absolutely amazing. I'm rehabbing some 3As and 5s, and am frankly wondering if they'll sound as good as these. I run them with my Dynaco A-25s (recapped and new tweeters) for a great sound.
  10. Wondered if anyone has done a cabinet refinish on their A-25s lately? I have a set from the 70s, recapped, new tweeters and redid the grills. Now it's time for the cabinets. They look like they are teak veneer, or maybe stained walnut veneer? Anyway, I'll strip the old stuff off and do the sanding. Was wondering if anyone has some recent examples of the kind of stain/sealer they used. Standard minwax walnut maybe? Any experiences would be appreicated thanks
  11. I purchased a pair of AR-5s off Craiglist. Both speakers had Radio Shack replacement woofers in them. My question is this: does it make a difference if I purchase set of 10-inchers off E-bay from the era, or, alternatively, should I just go ahead and spend the $ on replacement ones off Vintage AR Parts. There's a set of AR-5 woofers on e-bay right now for $130; Vintage AR will sell new a new replacement pair for another $10. Are there any opinions about which of these woofer replacements would be better. Or, alternately, I suppose I could keep the radiocshack polycone ones.... Any suggest
  12. The Ohmite controls are bigger than the older pots -- and they need a cover over them to keep the fiberglass dust off them. It means fabricating some kind of plywood cover -- it's just a bit of a pain. It just introduces neater step in the process. Let me know if want the pots, I've got four cleaned.
  13. Michigan Pat: I just completed a 2AX restoration -- new caps, volume controls, refoamed woofers, and new tweeters. Not sure what your tastes are, but the tweeter is a really great addiiton -- got from Larry at Vintage AR. I've got a bunch of pots if you need them -- I'd be happy to send you a set of four if you need them. I'm in the process of doing a 3A restoration and am using the Ohmite pots that won't corrode. Frankly, I should've stayed w/the originals. Let me know.
  14. Thanks. am in the midst of my 3A restoration. I've got the restoration guide. I'm about to start an AR-5 restoration -- thanks for the tip.
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