lakecat

I love the 2205 paired with the MX-117. I got these units to play all my AR 4ohm speakers and take turns rotating them. The trick with LST's is to put them up high to sound best. Have then 66" high now. Wish I could get them against the walls but can't because of windows...but they sound really good anyhow.

I use the 4ohm tap on my 2205 when using the LST's and all is good. If I was going to blast it at over 125 watts or so....maybe move it then....but I find it not necessary to be at anything over 70 watts.

I see you got them on Facebook... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/263900608327598/

Never say never....:) I just don't trust this cabinet. If it was given to me....yea, I would accept the challenge but not gonna buy junk. The seller is no help so screw it. Just wish I could find a mate to the one I have. Besides.... I got like three bathrooms and a kitchen lined up to customize....so no time anyway. So much for retirement!...lol.

I originally saw that label too and got real interested. I have been looking for a mate to my pine 3a for a long time. I really looked at pics and was disappointed. I asked the seller about them..being walnut but a pine label... and he knew nothing about them. Said they were picked up at an estate sale. Guess I will wait for a pine with a solid front on it.....as this one looks a mess.

I see almost a year later that they are still for sale.....:) Only have dropped it $50 and still has the goofy woofer. Time is certainly on the sellers side! https://cleveland.craigslist.org/ele/d/burton-klh-model-12/7108440602.html

A lot of discussion has been done on the SP line of speakers. There seems to be a way to free up the stiffness. You take acetone and carefully remove the compound on the surround. Larry at AR sells a compound for cloth surrounds that doesn't get hard. People have had success with that. I have a pair of SP 2000's that I want to try this on...as the surround on these woofers is stiff as hell.

Wow! Kudos to Larry! Helluva nice gift.

Hate to say you got a mess that will probably always be seen unless you are experienced with markers, watercolor brushes, and gel stains. Maybe a reveneer over that side if desperate for a clean look. Good luck.

Congrats....I saw those (I think) with the drivers sealed in silicone? Pretty ugly...lol. Date is 64-65 and the 3's I love also.

They are correct....you don't use poly when you are just filling in a cabinet with a finish on it. I am talking about using it as a stain on a completely sanded and unfinished product. It is a breeze to use and better than MinWax stains on this old walnut. The key is to make sure it is completely dry. And...usually use two coats. I have a pair of 3a's here that are around nine years old that I refinished with Howard's and satin poly. I paste waxed them at about three months old. They still look brand new....and matches the AR color pretty darn close. I have set original pairs of AR's beside these and it passes...:) To each their own...but it works here....and have done dozens with this method. Never had a complaint...and is quick. Screw that eight coats of oil stuff.... that lasts how long?

Hi Kent....if it was me, I would slap a wet towel over all sides and iron the hell out of it. Let it dry and try sanding the veneer a bit. if water marks disappear...great...but can add bleach if still showing. those water marks aren't bad. That cut in the veneer won't come out from steaming. I would sand all sides with grades of paper starting with 150, 220, and 400. I use Howards as a stain to much disdain here but works well. I would stain before any repairs to cracks. After a through drying of Howards, I would spray one coat of satin poly. After that dries, I would use Mohawks walnut epoxy for all cracks and that cut in the veneer and the coat of poly keeps any oils in the epoxy out of stain.. Roy turned me on to this stuff and I love it...and it matches Howards stain real close. A light sanding of epoxy if needed and add a second coat of poly. The coats of poly must dry for three days between coats. I also have colored pens that I use to make veneer marks over patches like the cut in your veneer. I usually add a third coat of poly then. Of all the refinishing I have done, this is the fastest way I have found to do a cabinet.

Anyone near Long Beach? Can't believe they are still unsold on EBay.

CD guy myself. Got a nice ES Sony that weighs 45lbs. A little dielectric grease on those pots and they should last. Mine have...

Don't be so quick to throw away those pots. There is a double swipe in those later models...and have found them to be in pretty good shape. You have some of the last built speakers with those serial numbers.

There is a difference. The Heathkits are spaced 1.5" apart....the 3a is 1.75". Maybe rounding out each hole just a little to the outside will make them fit.

That tape must be heavy....as the seller has a $350 shipping charge!...lol.

Hi Chris....I actually did this to a pair of 3's as the mids were shot and had an extra pair of 3a mids. I did what Roy said to do. They sounded okay...but seemed not up to par. I eventually found a pair of 3 mids...changed everything back...and got the sound back I liked. I am certainly no sound expert but just an opinion. Maybe I didn't have something correct?...dunno. I would curious to see what you thought if you do this. No big deal to change it.

The tweeters weren't original either...but glad to the attention and bids on them. I grabbed a mint pair of grills on there this morning for $49. Keepers...:)

Glad to see you are still at it...:) Little off topic but have noticed these Heathkits getting some attention. This pair on EBay that just sold for close to $400 was pretty crappy imho....and still brought good money. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372853248471

Those look fantastic! Glad you found grill material. Shame that no material company handles it.

Bringing out the unique graining is what I liked when I finished the work on it. I can't imagine white pine for flooring...as it is sooo soft. I have built and remodeled many homes...and have never put in pine flooring. Ceilings and walls?....yes.

Not a perfect match. Don't have the molding bits to match their corners. Would be too much work to have a cabinet that wouldn't match. New vs old.

I have had this one speaker put away for almost two years now...hoping by now to have found a mate. But...nope...nada. I got it out to play it a bit...and this speaker sounds so damn good....tweeter strong...mid is excellent...and that honey bass...I JUST HAVE TO FIND A MATCH! I have even saved a tweeter...mid...and an alnico woofer in case I ever found a bad one. They are more rare than I ever imagined! Please....if anyone ever runs across one...please..please contact me. The weird thing being in construction forever, I have always HATED pine...but this one had such great graining...and the work I put into it to get it right...has made me really attached to it. Being a stellar sounding 3a doesn't hurt either....:)

AR stated in their literature....get them up high and AGAINST the wall...just like a recording studio...because that was what they made for. Seeing these on speaker stands makes me cringe. I experimented with mine and put them at 65" high and three inches from back wall....(couldn't get them any closer due to window)...and they are about six-seven foot apart. Hooked up to a McIntosh 2205 w/ MX-117 pre that both are recapped. It sounds fantastic with very airy mids, deep bass, and voices that are very clear. A top notch speaker.....but... The negatives with value is the very difficult way to ship these...freight...which is expensive. The other is having to get them up high as they are heavy beasts so placement is difficult.