lakecat
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Posts posted by lakecat
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What a gift! You got the preferred 2ax for sure and are early models. What is the serial numbers on back? Odd on the dates for the drivers...as it would seem crazy that they sat on shelves that long.
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On 8/15/2023 at 6:56 PM, RoyC said:
I was thinking the same thing as I looked at your photos. Ha, based on decades of working inside these cabinets, it seems to me that some of the staplers were either having lots of fun with the gun, or just really bad shots.
Or liquid lunches.....:)
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Nice work as always!
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On 2/17/2023 at 3:53 PM, lARrybody said:
Seems like almost everybody has the JS-120 stands in stock now. The KLH stands also may be a good fit for a few dollars more.
$330 for a pair of stands? Pass.
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6 hours ago, jonwb said:
Very nice lakecat...
I have some nicks and edges that require a small amount of stainable wood filler. I thought about leaving them but they're too obvious. Is there a product that's recommended for this?
Please do not use wood fillers before staining and protect coat....it will make it worse. Finish your cabs...then one coat of poly or whatever you use. There is plenty of colored wax wood pencils that will match your stain and can blend it in. Also if they are a little deep, I use Mohawk epoxy putty stick in walnut with great success. I smooth it with a razor blade. Then I finish cab with one or two more coats of poly or whatever finish you use. I have even used colored magic markers with fine tips to blend on cabs too give the grain look over the scratches.
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This was done in 2006 and still look the same today.
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I have used MinWax stains and even Howards restore on more than a few cabs and came out nice. I then sprayed several coats of satin poly to finish. I have done lacquer on several rare AR3's and one cherry cab but lots and lots of work and coats.
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Crutchfield has them and does come with stands.
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6 hours ago, RoyC said:
The AR-11 tweeter was discussed many moons ago. The tan/yellow dome tweeter was the earliest version of the 2nd generation 3/4" AR tweeter, and does not have ferro-fluid in the vc gap. It tends to be popular among AR-11 aficionados today primarily because ferro-fluid can cause variable response issues due to age and hard use. The early non-ff AR-11 tweeter is presumed to have remained more consistent, and closer to original spec. Why AR chose the dome's color is anyone's guess, but being the first AR tweeter of its kind, it probably had more to do with being the first time AR used a cloth dome. It also clearly differentiated it from the comparatively crude 3/4" black paper dome that preceded it.
As a result of its stiffer suspension, Fs of the Tonegen woofer was in the mid 20's compared to mid/upper-teens for the earlier versions of the woofer original to the 3a and LST. Some of the relatively effortless (lowest) bass response of the original design was therefore sacrificed. The Tonegen woofer, however, was extremely well built and consistent in quality, and is usually found to be in excellent shape today. Since the spider/suspension has had decades to soften, they usually perform very well in all AR models, albeit at the sacrifice of some of the original power handling capability.
Roy
These domes on the tweeters are cloth? It is like a soft plastic to me. I couldn't get the dent out of the dome on the one tweeter as the memory is set in that harder material. Even tried a hair dryer to soften it but nada. They do sound very good though and like this set. Thank you for taking the time to fill me in on the woofers. I am going to remove one to check the manufacture and check the caps.
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2 hours ago, AR55 said:
I have 2 pairs of AR-11s. One pair has AR woofers and the other Tonegen woofers (the original owner replaced the woofers when the surrounds failed). My wife & I have compared them side-by-side and we didn't hear a noticeable difference. I'm not saying that one doesn't exist, but we could hear it.
I also didn't notice a difference in the base response of my AR98LS (AR woofers) & AR98LSi (Tonegen woofers) speakers.
I don't think there is to be honest. Do like if they are replacements that will handle more volume.
11 hours ago, DavidR said:Its so small it's most likely not affecting the sound. Leave it be.
I know.....just me being anal...lol. I want it as perfect as possible.
3 hours ago, frankmarsi said:Not minimalize any opinions already expressed here and though I'm not certain but, wasn't 'ferro-fluid' tweeters a selling point when the 11's first came out?
Back in 1978, a friend of mine bought a new set of 11's and as I've said before the bass wasn't as well rounded as it was in the AR-3a however, in our auditioning we didn't adhere to any proper set-up when we played them. That in of itself could very much be a dis-qualifying factor. Though the woofers might be of the Tongen origin initially also.
Only the Grand High Exalted Ruler Roy C. would be able to tell us all for sure as he's refurbing these and other AR's and would have the experience of seeing and working on them in the flesh regularly. If I saw a pair for sale locally, I would snatch them up immediately without question.
Though like all things AR, the answer is no doubt in an older post. Hopefully, it can be found and much of the important opinions and knowledge that were already discussed by members years ago by those who had more AR experience and electrical qualifications.
FM
Frank....these must be the first run of the 11's as from what I have learned here, the yellow tweeters are not ferro-fluid. In looking at many google pics of the 11's, only a couple had the yellow tweeters.
I have a pretty good collection of AR's now.... the LST, the AR3a in walnut and pine with alnico woofers, the AR3 in walnut and very rare birch, the AR12, two pairs of Heathkit AS-103's that are the 3a knockoffs, the AR 303 in black, and now the AR 11. Also experimented with two Heathkit cabinets that have AR11 woofers and midranges in it and has the 3a tweeters in it.
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Just out of curiousity, I have been Googling pics of AR11 speakers and finding that the pair I have with the yellow tweeter seems to be very rare. The woofer (if replaced) is no big deal as Tom Tyson said it has almost the same specs...and can handle higher volume. Here is a pic of a pair of 11's like mine and it seems to have the same woofer....
Acoustic Research AR-11 - Hifidealer
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This seller also had a pair of AR TSW 910's that just blew me away with it's bass. Right beside those were a pair of Kef 104.2's that sounded very good. Then took me to his bar area and a nice pair of Thiels were there and sounded very nice. Then he said he had two pair of AR 9's stored in a room upstairs!...lol....just shook my head. He said he preferred the 910 over the 9's in the room he had them in. Very knowledgeable and nice guy. First time I heard the 910's...and they were impressive.
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Thanks guys. No expert on the woofers but have seen this color on other 11's in past. With how nice these speakers are in original condition, I can't imagine why they would be replaced...especially with the refresh foam job.
The dent on tweeter dust cap will be tough to get out as it is a harder material. Kind of like a plastic so water and tube probably won't work. Hate the thought of a needle also in trying to pry it out. Maybe heating it with a blow dryer to soften it and then a tube to suck the dent out? Any ideas?
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Well...I finally got them today and what a find. They are freshly refoamed nicely....has the original shipping boxes with pads inside....the AR11 literature that came with speakers. ..even a small envelope that has small felt pads to put on cabinet!...lol.
Hooked them up to my McIntosh 2205 and they are simply fantastic sounding. All drivers look like new. Foam grills are passable but aged. I can understand when they say this was their finest effort with the bookshelves.
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7 minutes ago, AR55 said:
The main difference between the 2 tweeters is that the black tweeter (updated AR11B) is cooled with ferrofluid and the yellow tweeter (original AR11) isn't.
Okay...I am headed out tomorrow to listen to them. Thanks for the info!....
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Never ran across these speakers so looking at a pair. They have the yellow tweeters and have also seen a few with the black tweeters. Is there any major differences between them? Thanks for any help. Have the 12's and might be nice to add these.
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On 8/11/2022 at 11:53 AM, sfoster137 said:
Yes I used blades. They were the longer break off type, so perhaps not as sharp. Thinning the paint did help on my second effort. A scrape and then a bit of hand sanding to taste. I'm liking where I'm at now, with a bit of a wash. The cabinets pop a bit more, some imperfections are hidden and the dark lines are not as visible. The grain edges can be subtle or brought out with sanding.
In the attached picture the cabinet on the right has the wash and the left does not.
Looks really good! Amazing how nice you got those. Glad it worked out. The graining is gorgeous!
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weird....did you use utility blades as they will remove most anything.....
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On 8/6/2022 at 5:58 PM, sfoster137 said:
Two bleaches with chlorine concentrate and I feel I'm close to the finish I'd like. The darker streaks are still visible so will investigate painting and scraping as per Lakecat. Considering a couple coats of satin poly to bring back some grain and evenly darken back down a bit. Thanks again for the many helpful contributions to this project!
That is awesome!...great work my man...:) Make sure you use water poly. The graining is so cool.
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21 hours ago, sfoster137 said:
Hello Lakecat. Thanks so much for your earlier thread on stripping these cabinets! I certainly wouldn't have tried doing this without it. As you see from the picture I do have the dark streaks and also a bit of dark areas that make it look dirty (this is the worst side). I have beached 3 times followed by a light pressure orbital sand at 120 grit. I would like the finish a bit lighter and cleaner still. My wife's cheap laundry bleach is probably diluted so am going to try a more concentrated solution. I've been applying with a soft brush so am also going to try something stiffer. Maybe a heavier sand as well. I've been taking it slow and easy so far.
The finish is certainly growing on me!
-Steve
What I did was to coat it in bleach and let it dry. No sanding. I took utility blades and scrapped in the direction of the grain. Sanding just grinds....and you want to lift what the bleach can lift. Lot of work but worth a try. I thinned almond latex paint and added a coat and then scrapped it some with the blades. Best I could do to lighten the dark veining.
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Nice job on refinishing the pine. Isn't the graining so cool? Would like to see a closer pic of the one you done. Is there still dark streaks in the grain from where the stain got in the cracks of the veneer? Had a hell of a time with that.... good luck on next one. Coming out nice!
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Nice work! It seems you have an AR factory there....lol. Impressive supplies for your work.
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4 hours ago, reza said:
That was used in the past but no longer being made.
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Couple things....Ebay will 1099 you now for anything sold over $600. Also....trying to ship those without experience will be tricky.
I have refinished over ten pairs of AR3's. Some of those had mids that were shot. The woofer could have issues now. And the final two things are the caps...and the potentimeters needing replaced.
Hopefully you can find someone near that could get them. Because of the potential issues....unless someone could test the drivers...is being able to accept less monies than stated above. Good luck!
ar11 for sale
in For sale / Wanted
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That is because I picked those up....:)