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mccarty350

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About mccarty350

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  1. This is a pretty late response but speakers I have owned in this genre: ADS L500, L7e, L700 (L710 early version), L880, L1590 and a pair of Canton Karat 300's. I prefer the Karats to all of the ADS bookshelf speakers and performed A/B comparisons. Granted this is to MY ears, the opinions of others may differ and are valid. 1. Canton is more efficient. 2. Canton has more 'air' and sparkle without being harsh. 3. Despite being brighter the tweeter has less glare/grit than a hair, it's extremely smooth. That's one guy's take on it.
  2. mccarty350

    ADS L1590

    Tom thank you so much for the great and lengthy response! I hadn't checked for a few weeks so I apologize for the late response on my part. It's getting late but I did open up and look at the crossover as much as I could (it's sandwiched together and it looks like it would be very tough to get it into two pieces without desoldering the binding post leads from the PCB) and noticed what I thought to be quite a few NPE caps. When I get a few more cycles I'll reply at length. John
  3. So from everything that I have heard the ADS L1590/2's use good caps that may or may not need replacement but I'd like to see the crossover. The more I read about these speakers the more they seem to be a mystery in more than one way. First off, I can't find a crossover diagram here nor at the Classic Speaker Pages. Second off gaining access to them is a nigh impossible series of puzzles one within the other. To gain access to the binding posts one must remove a wooden back plate. Once inside this to put it in full range rather than biamp mode one must remove a plate under which sit two switches. One you shift to the right to indicate 'full range', the other switch up top is completely unlabeled and remains a mystery. The woofers are screwed in from the back thus can't be removed from the baffle. I can only assume that to gain access to the crossover that the entire binding post black plate assembly must be removed and that perhaps the crossovers are on the back of this plate. This plate was screwed in with alan hex screws...after finding the alan wrench that fit them I removed all the screws and pulled - only to have no movement whatsoever. I even gently placed screwdrivers in multiple screw holes and gently pried -- no movement whatsoever. I am coming to believe that they are either glued in or otherwise fastened. Has anyone managed to gain access to the crossovers in these puzzles masquerade as speakers that can tell me how to get in or am I to believe due to the dearth of information that nearly nobody has? Any assistance in gaining access without destroying these fine speakers would be of great help. McCarty350
  4. mccarty350

    ADS L1590

    Tom, I also have an ADS L1590 newly purchased and a set of AR9's. In my opinion so far they seem to be similar in sound and performance with a tad more bass going to the AR9's and a tad more tightness in bass going to the L1590's. However, the L1590's are INFINITELY easier to drive. It's made me consider (and I never ever thought I would say this) selling the AR9's. Have you had similar thoughts? I haven't A/B'd them and put them through the paces due to time constrains but perhaps you have. Also, does anyone here have a crossover schematic for an L1590/2 and know whether or not there is any gain to recapping these? I have been told that ADS used a lot of poly caps in their xover but I'm not sure how pervasive that was and whether or not an upgrade to some modern film caps for the tweets/mids might give me some palpable gain. Thanks, McCarty350
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