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trask

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  1. I have six “volume controls” for AR speakers — five are marked “Aetna-Pollak” and one (the brown one upper right in the photo) is marked only “Pollak”. I had purchased four of these long ago from an online seller when I had a pair of AR-5 speakers, and two are removed from a pair of AR-6 speakers. So these are used items, and I have no way to test them so they are being sold as-is/no returns I’m asking $20 for all six, and buyer pays for shipping — I don’t pad shipping costs, so just the cost of postage to mail to you. Shipping is from zip code 22033 (northern Virginia). It’s easiest for me if you email me at plaubel67w@gmail.com if interested. Thanks.
  2. Hello -- I own an original "AU" Acoustic Research amplifier, and am looking for the accessory wooden case that was made to house the amp. These were relatively inexpensive back in 1968, but it seems that many people didn't buy them despite the reasonable price -- so my amp came without one. If anyone has an original for sale, I'd appreciate an email at plaubel67w@gmail.com Or here in the CSP. Thanks.
  3. Good luck with your restoration. I have a pair of AR-5's that someone else restored, but I still want to replace the old caps and install new attenuators. I recently restored some AR-6 speakers, using a cap from PartsConnection and JVB attenuators (switched resistors). The sound is great, and no corrosion to deal with.
  4. trask

    AR6 review

    Thanks for posting this review. I'm listening to my AR-6 speakers right now, driven by a Berning EA-230 amp. Wonderful sound. I upgraded my pair with a new cap and JVB attenuators replacing the L-pads, and the sound is sparkling.
  5. I have a pair of walnut veneer AR-6's, with new foam surrounds on the woofers. I was getting tired of the scratchy Aetna controls, so decided to do two upgrades at the same time -- replace the crossover caps, and try out a pair of JVB attenuators. For the caps, I went with Jantzen "Cross" caps that, as far as I can tell, permit a much cleaner high frequency response. As for the JVB attenuators -- these are discrete-resistor controls built on a multi-position rotary switch, so no more little copper nibs pressing on a resistive wire element. The benefits are repeatable settings, a great variety of different levels of treble, and (I hope) a longer life than the Aetnas. These changes have greatly improved the sound of the speakers, and I imagine that the sound I have now is close to what they must have sounded like new. Of course, what counts is what they sound like now, and they sound fine. I've violated scientific methodology by making two changes at the same time, but I didn't want to reopen the speakers twice. So all I can say is that both changes together improve the sound significantly. Oh, I also tossed the old foam speaker seal rings and used Parts Express special speaker sealing caulk, which seems to offer a better seal than the light foam ones, or at least that's my impression. I originally bought the JVB attenuators for use in my AR-5s, but they're in storage now and so I had to upgrade the AR-6s. I'm glad I did. I can recommend the JVBs as a replacement for the Aetna controls. For AR completists -- each AR-6 (which I bought as single speakers) had different Aetna controls. One had a relatively cheap set of internals, and one was much, much higher quality inside, with a sort of heavy metal slug and better attachment for the "nib" control.
  6. Thanks, Dave, for being interested enough to preserve this bit of American audio history. These are exactly the kind of recollections that would eventually be lost if concerned folk didn't track them down and record them for us all to appreciate. You done good!
  7. In the search for more watts per channel, I'm looking at a 200 WPC Acurus power amp -- so I'm curious to know if anyone else is using one to driver their AR speakers? How about a McCormack? I actually HAVE a DNA-0.5 amp in a box in the basement, 125 WPC, but I haven't pulled it up to put in the system yet. Maybe someone else already has?
  8. In the search for more watts per channel, I'm looking at a 200 WPC Acurus power amp -- so I'm curious to know if anyone else is using one to driver their AR speakers? How about a McCormack? I actually HAVE a DNA-0.5 amp in a box in the basement, 125 WPC, but I haven't pulled it up to put in the system yet. Maybe someone else already has?
  9. Luc: I've got AR-5's, but haven't had the chance to listen to AR-2ax's. I've got say, mine sound pretty good! I see you use a 6L6 amp, which if you're operating push-pull is probably putting out 18 watts or so. Does your amp drive your 2ax's well? Does it ever sound as if the amp is clipping? I'm thinking of getting a 6L6 amp myself (building one, that is) but I'm worried that, as so many others say, big watts are needed by these AR speakers.
  10. I find Mexicomike's comments of great interest -- thanks for providing them to us. I must now figure how this lesson applies to my 8 ohm AR-5s!
  11. I can't believe these haven't sold yet -- that's an excellent price for a great pair of speakers. I love my AR-5s; sorry to see you have to let yours go. Good luck!
  12. I'm sympathetic because I too like tubes. I tried to drive my AR-5s (which are an easier 8 ohm load) with my Sonic Frontiers SFC-1 integrated EL-34 amp, and while it made nice music it just didn't have the tightness that an SS amp brings. I am currently using a Terry DeWick-upgraded McIntosh MA-5100 amp, which is about 55 watts/channel, and it certainly makes nice sounds, but then I don't listen at high levels. I have also used a Sony VFET integrated amp which sounds very clean but doesn't seem to quite grab the woofers. Perhaps the amp that gets them up the most is my AR amp (original model) that somehow just seems to make the music interesting. I speculate that it has to do with the interstage transformers and the early design of the transistor output section, but that's just a guess. I do have a McCormack 125 wpc amp with associated preamp combo that I have to get out of the basement and try out, just to make the comparison.
  13. A sideways question about Restor-A-Finish: I have a nice solid walnut cabinet (Sonrise hifi cabinet) that sat in the sun a bit too much with a TV on it. The wood under the TV stayed the original walnut color and the part that was sun-exposed is of course lighter in color. Would R-A-F in walnut, applied across the entire surface, even out the color and so some/large degree eliminate the visual evidence of the fading? Without sanding, I presume. Thanks.
  14. Guillaume -- nice speakers! Who did the work on them, presumably in France?
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