Stimpy

If you are referring to AR9LS speakers, with their down-firing woofers, many use Sonic Barrier as a replacement. Parts Express sells several types, depending on the thickness required? You'll have to measure and cut it to fit. Sonic Barrier

I wondered that too? I assumed the post concerned 9LS or LSi's?

Thanks. But, my 58S speakers don't have wires hanging out the back...! Nice job on the recap too. All Jantzen Premium Elko's, or do you have Mundorf E-Caps mixed in too? A shame Jantzen dropped the Elko line. It's getting difficult to find good speaker electrolytic caps.

It should be the same as the AR-91, but without the level switches. Great speakers.

M&K should be on some of those lists. They introduced the first subwoofer/satellite systems to the market.

Don't thank me. This is all you and your efforts. Awesome posts, and project. Well done!

And most would recommend this: Dayton 80uF 100V NPE Or, you could get stupid like me...! Mundorf 33uF 450V $58.37 + Mundorf 47uF 450V $58.37 = $116.74 Hey, I figure, you only live once (and poor).

Parts Connexion sells Axon poly capacitors. Axon caps are made in the same French factory that makes Solen caps. Some very decent prices, that could allow the use of more poly caps, or save money, whichever is best. I used Axon for the shunts on my AR-90s, with no issues. I used Mundorf for the series caps, which worked out great. Very open and detailed caps, with a very palpable midrange. NPE caps shunt to ground. But, they do help roll off the high end of the woofers. So, their effect on sound can be audible. Use the best you can.

I'm no crossover expert, but your cap choices look good. All the correct values too. Even the 8.0uF shunt. Poly for the series capacitors, and NPE for the shunts, is a good cost savings move as well, since poly caps would be most effective for the series values. I've done that too, depending on speaker coast and parts budget. Good find on the 80uF cap as well. I didn't even know Mid West Speaker sold capacitors.

Excellent work @bjmsam. Vey inventive use of a cabinet door too...! I don't have any spare mids or tweeters, but I did buy a set of acoustic blanket from an AR-91, for my "center speaker project". It's not the full piece, like 9s and 90s use, so it wouldn't cover the LMR woofer. It'd cover the UMR and tweeter. You're welcome to one, if interested? I'll save the second for my dream center speaker...! Until then, a spare AR-92 works well as a center too...!

An excellent point. My AR-58S speakers sound fine to me, so I guess there's no need for further "upgrades".

We keep all of those solvents at work. There's a fume hood too. So, if needed, I could come in on a Saturday and strip the woofers. Thanks for the warning...!

Thanks! 👍

Maximum effort, with commendable results. Well done! Also, what did you use to remove "the crap that he had smeared all over the cone"? I've got AR woofers, that someone coated. I'd like to get rid of it too. Thanks.

I had this UMR ad flagged, and forgot all about it. It's for a NOS 028 mid. A little pricey, but since it's been up for a while, I would think you could get it a little cheaper. 200028 DOME

Too funny! While I'd love to own a pair of LSTs, they do scare me. Whether accurate or not, I guess I feel the drivers from my Vertical Series ARs are more robust than the earlier 3/3a iterations. So, in my mind, I feel those drivers (tweeters/mids) are more fragile. While I don't crank, I'd always worry that I'd blow something. Even now, I use a preamp with dual RCA outs. One set of outputs drives my AR amp, and the other drives my Martin Logan amp. Depending on music and mood, determines which amp gets turned on. It's like having 2 cars, the mileage gets split between speakers, to help them last longer!

Yes, the 032 has ferrofluid on one side of the voice coil, where the 028 has fluid on the inside and outside of the coil. Magnetics keeps it in place, but how you get it into one side is beyond me...!

Just trying to relay my direct experience and help out... Not preaching gospel... Same driver, just different amounts of ferrofluid. Plus the UMR in the 9 & 90 is high passed at a higher frequency, so it does cut off the low end response of the dome, which should help mitigate the differing resonance frequencies between the 200028 and 200032 domes. Maybe that's why they sound the same, to me...! But, you're welcome to listen and draw your own conclusions. Fine with me...

Years ago, my brother blew a 200028 dome mid, in my 90's. So, off I went to the local AR dealer, and no questions asked, they swapped the dead driver for a new one. Well, I was very surprised, when years later, I pulled the speakers apart, for a recap, and I found the replacement mid was a 200032! I never heard any differences between the two.

If you get desperate, and feel adventurous, the AR-1MS, and the AR Mid/tweeter plate, used in several versions of the 38B, 48B and 58B, use the same tweeter diaphragm, as the AR-9. One of those diaphragms could be swapped into the 9 tweeter. Those tweeters might even use the same magnet assembly, allowing you to remount the whole assembly onto a AR-9 tweeter faceplate. But, while I've looked up the diaphragm, and know they match, I'm unsure on the magnet assembly.

Did you check the suspect tweeter with a multimeter? I'd test it, to see if it reads open, before spending for a replacement. Plus, Vertical Series tweeters pop up often on eBay. Any of the 9, 90, 91 or 92 tweeters would work. Even the 58S tweeter, though the color might be different. Good luck.

Lot's of different bypass capacitors in there @DavidR. Have you had listening sessions with each type, or just experimenting?

Thanks @r_laski, I appreciate the kind words. 😃

The parts list looks good. But, don't forget the 350uF Capacitor on the woofer. These should do it. MDL 100 X 2 MDL 150 As to "series" and "parallel", don't be confused. The 4, 6, 24, and 80 capacitors are all series capacitors, as they're wired directly in the circuit part to their respective drivers. Now, since you have to combine caps, to add to the needed values, they are wired in parallel, to correctly add together. Then, the parallel bundle is wired up where it's used. The actual "parallel" caps, in the schematic, are shunt capacitors, since they are wired to ground. Now, you can also order ClarityCaps through Madisound. They look to have your missing caps in stock. Good luck!

Those look awesome! Well done. Though, I do wonder why AR used a brown front face, where the 9s and 90s were black? You'd think they'd all match each other, since they are all part of the Vertical Series.