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Kuja

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Everything posted by Kuja

  1. AR-18 is also on the equipment list of AIR studios : https://www.airstudios.com/toy-cupboard/
  2. This was filmed in Paul's own "home" studio in Sussex: https://www.sussexlive.co.uk/news/sussex-news/inside-sir-paul-mccartneys-east-7748679 https://www.soundonsound.com/people/story-beatles-anthology-project The same pair of AR-18LS speakers can also be seen in some other videos from the era, like this one, albeit only briefly from the back:
  3. Hi all! I just finished watching a short documentary on Beatles Youtube channel about the recording of their latest single Now and Then. I was pleasantly surprised when I saw AR-18LS in the role of studio monitors in the archival footage from 1994! 😃 https://youtu.be/APJAQoSCwuA?t=245 https://youtu.be/APJAQoSCwuA?t=284 https://youtu.be/APJAQoSCwuA?t=315
  4. Since overseas shopping can be too expensive and complicated in our country, some local repairmen are using alternative methods. They are using glue for catching mice or rats, that is adequately thinned for this purpose. They say that the basic components in the mice glue and the "real" cloth sealer are the same. I've never tried it, but this method is maybe worth investigating, as the alternative for the rest of us who do not have access to the fancier stuff. Here is the example of vintage Tannoy K3809 driver restoration, you'll have to scroll down to the mice glue cloth surround treatment part: https://www.zenmod.in.rs/another-tannoy-k3809-adventure-read-revitalization-again-3-previous-episodes-cumulative-with-finish/ Another link: https://www.zenmod.in.rs/tannoy-k3809-hardened-cloth-surround-issue-solved/ I know that this type of glue is forbidden in some countries, because it is a very cruel method for killing mice and rats, but this way at least it can be put to a better use. Here is the example of the glue they are using:
  5. As you said 14 years have passed. If I manage to find the original photos of my restoration, I'll post them here. Schematic, with all mods, is the same as @AR55 has posted in his post above:
  6. I still have the original foam inserts around UMRs and tweeters in my AR-90s. The foam that is very close to the original is the sponge filter material that is used in external canister filters for fish tanks. You can buy it in sheets in some pet stores. The sponge material that was installed in my fishtank filter looked exactly the same in texture as my original AR foam inserts. There are different densities and cell sizes, you should go for the finest/smallest: http://www.spongesupplier.com/product/10ppi-to-60ppi-saltwater-fish-tank-aquarium-filter-sponge-bio-filter-sponge/ l
  7. What is it that you don't like about the new "recapped" sound? I have recapped my AR90s with Mundorf white poly caps (the basic cheapest ones) and I'm very satisfied with the sound. I only had to attenuate the UMR drivers by 3dBs to tune them to my room.
  8. "TT" on that badge are not two letters T together - it is actually the symbol π (Pi)
  9. AR 30BF and 30BS, 33BX... etc.. (we have AR30BF in our son's room) AR 33 BX: :
  10. Thanks, The source for this cork/rubber was a local hardware shop in Belgrade, Serbia. I believe that it was imported from Italy. I bought it some two years ago and I don't know if they still have it.
  11. It seems that you have second generation of 98LS speakers. Later improved 98LSI models didn't have those plastic rings around woofers and lower mids. They were improved by adding some resistors in front of lower and upper midrange, which made them smoother sounding. Also, one of the capacitors was removed in front of the tweeter and its phase was inverted too. Earlier LS version was known for producing listeners fatigue. While I was refreshing my crossovers with new capacitors, I also upgraded them to LSI versions. Here you can see the restoration I did on my pair: http://www.kujucev.com/ar98ls/ar98.htm Here is the modded LSI version of the crossover:
  12. >I'm a little busy for a couple of weeks, but I will send it >along after that. > >I wonder why you chose to place soft material on the speaker >front but did not place such material on the plate holding the >dual tweeter/high mid? I would think that sound absorbing >material near the high units would be a good idea.. I also >note that you have the speakers on stands. That will probably >degrade bass response which is more room and placement >dependent than the AR9LS. Hello again, Did you get some time for scanning? I'm really looking forward to this review! Yes, I was thinking of putting some felt on the front dual driver plate. So far I can't find the right material locally. Also I have to figure out the way to attach it without ruining the finish if I decide to remove it. Bass response is OK since my listening room is quite small. Sometime with some bass heavy music, it even gets too strong. With stands and away from the rear wall, imaging and depth is much improved. Thanks in advance, Aleksandar
  13. >...but I have a copy of the Audio review >of the AR 98LS.... COOL! Can you scan it? I've heard somewhere that posting of copyrighted material (like magazine reviews) is usually not allowed on forums. But if you have a scanner, It would be so great if you can send it to me at: aleksandar(at)kujucev(dot)com replace (at) with @ and (dot) with . Please?!?! I'm on cable, so bigger the scan the better! If you're interested, I have those brochure scans I got earlier from Mark... Aleksandar
  14. Mark, Thanks a lot for the photos and scans! I got to see them today, since I was offline for almost a week - some idiots had cut the internet optical cables while digging in our street doing some other repair. You did a very professional job with those grille photos! I'm looking forward to receiving the rest of the scans! Thanks again, Aleksandar
  15. >Hi Aleksander, > >Yes, I have the original user manual and brochures. The front >cover photograph on the brochure is really impressive. I will >scan them this week and email to you. > >I still have the original boxes and packing material. > >Regards > >Mark That would be great!!! Since I'm on cable, I can receive quite large attachments. Thanks in advance! Aleksandar PS I never had the original griles for my 98LS speakers. I'm thinking of making some. What material AR used to make original frames? I made some frames from MDF. I'll dye them black and I have to find a suitable fabric... http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/dc/user_files/1304.jpg
  16. Hi Mark, Thanks. After "Improving" my pair of AR-98LS, I never looked back. Their sound before the upgrade was somewhat fatiguing and harsh. I don't know if this was partly due to capacitors that were 20+ years old. After the upgrade, my speakers were transformed! They sound much better now. I didn't spare any money on the parts, I bought the best that was available. I also replaced the internal wiring and the outside terminals. I removed the clips and soldered internal wires directly to drivers' terminals. You should at least replace those old and expired capacitors. Todays capacitors are much more advanced compared to what was available more than twenty years ago. But you say that you like the sound as it is - it can all depend on the rest of your equipment. If your system is somewhat "dark" sounding, maybe unmodified LS speakers will suit it better... I don't know why compared to AR-9, AR-9LS is looked down at as inferior by some members of this forum. AR-9 was an innovative and ground braking product, but it seems that 9LS was a further refinement. Did anyone on this forum heard both (in comparable conditions)? I just received a scanned 9LS review from Steve. Steve, WOW, thanks a lot!!! This is what I was looking for! You're the greatest! I did some copy&paste and attached a smaller part of it. It seems that AR made quite a few improvements to the original AR-9. I almost forgot... Mark, do you still have some original materials from your 98LS speakers? Brochure? User manual maybe? Can you scan them? Email them? http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/dc/user_files/1303.gif
  17. Thanks again for your valuable reply! There are some discrepancies in data that I've found on this site and what is printed on my pair of speakers. You can see everything on the attached images. According to the two brochures, -3dB points are at 39Hz and 32kHz for both LS and LSI models. 9LS and LSI's -3dB is at 28Hz. But, my pair had this plastic front with some data printed on it (eh, those eighties ) and it says that -3dB point is at 28Hz and that the range goes up to "only" 25kHz. What happened here? Or did the graphic designer that designed these fronts just put on some wrong numbers? http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/dc/user_files/1298.jpg http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/dc/user_files/1299.jpg
  18. Steve, thanks a lot!!! I'm looking forward to receiving those reviews! After comparing crossovers of 9LS and 98LS speakers (they are identical except for the additional 10" woofer), can I assume that the two speakers share the same general sound quality? Of course the 9LS will have greater bass extension, but since the two speakers share majority of the drivers and the crossovers (as I already said) are almost identical, what can be said about the rest of the frequency spectrum of 98LS compared to 9LS? Aleksandar http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/dc/user_files/1296.gif
  19. A recent post (Reviews of TSW-910), made me wonder if any forum members have any reviews of AR-98LS(i) speakers as well? I couldn't find any by myself. Reviews of any of the LS series spakers would be interesting too (9LS & 78LS)... I'm a very happy owner of one pair of AR98LS speakers: http://www.kujucev.com/ar98ls/ar98.htm Recently I visited a local Audio&Video Fair. There were lots of manufacturers present and maybe the only pair of speakers that sounded more impressive to my ears were B&W 801D costing 12.000 euros (some 14.000$). Few other speakers costing up to 4.000 euros were OK too, but none were as natural sounding as my ARs. If you have any reviews and you have means to scan them, can you send them to: aleksandar(x)kujucev(x)com ...of course, replace (x)>@ and (x)>. - spam is killing me these days :-) I'm on cable, so largish scans are not a problem. Thanks in advance! Aleksandar
  20. Do not throw away your original drivers!!! Your speakers will never be the same if you do! You just need new surrounds for them and it is a pretty easy and cheap repair. You can buy a kit and do it yourself, or some repair shop can do it for you. You just have to find replacement surrounds as close to original as possible. Check out these photos: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/ar/images/ar10rot.jpg http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/ar/images/ar10cl.jpg http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/ar/images/ar10re.jpg
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