HiVi q1r install

[LouB]

I got a pair of the q1r tweets and am ready to install.

duuuuuhhhh..... without opening the nicely sealed woofer, I’m wondering if anyone knows offhand whether the right or left tinsel lead  is the “ positive “.

I’m attaching the inductor to the back bell of the tweet with hotmelt.

 

regards,

Lou

 

[LouB]

Never mind, I answered my own dumb question.?

[LouB]

Dang! 

Sounds good!

[JKent]

3 hours ago, LouB said:

I’m attaching the inductor to the back bell of the tweet with hotmelt.

 

Hey Lou

I think it's advisable to put a wood spacer between the coil and the metal bell to prevent interference.

There's also a tweeter cap mod but Roy keeps fine-tuning that so it would be better to consult him on that. On mine, I originally reversed the tweeter polarity and added a 6uF cap in series (connected to the black wire, at the tweeter) effectively making the tweeter cap 3uF. This was easier than tearing into the speakers again to replace the 6uF. Later he mentioned using a 5uF tweeter cap with no polarity reversal so... let's see what his current advice is.

-Kent

PS: The 6uF cap in the photo includes a Vishay 0.01uF "bypass cap"--totally worthless IMHO but harmless.

[LouB]

1 hour ago, JKent said:

Hey Lou

I think it's advisable to put a wood spacer between the coil and the metal bell to prevent interference.

There's also a tweeter cap mod but Roy keeps fine-tuning that so it would be better to consult him on that. On mine, I originally reversed the tweeter polarity and added a 6uF cap in series (connected to the black wire, at the tweeter) effectively making the tweeter cap 3uF. This was easier than tearing into the speakers again to replace the 6uF. Later he mentioned using a 5uF tweeter cap with no polarity reversal so... let's see what his current advice is.

-Kent

PS: The 6uF cap in the photo includes a Vishay 0.01uF "bypass cap"--totally worthless IMHO but harmless.

Sounds like a plan, I’ll implement that tomorrow evening.

thanks for the heads up,

 

Lou

[der]

I've got a pair ready to go but have never installed them. I used a wood spacer and fed the wiring the faceplate to enable front mount. I still have decent output from my original tweeters. At least, I think I do. I might have to install these this winter so I can hear them.

der

[RoyC]

14 hours ago, JKent said:

Hey Lou

I think it's advisable to put a wood spacer between the coil and the metal bell to prevent interference.

There's also a tweeter cap mod but Roy keeps fine-tuning that so it would be better to consult him on that. On mine, I originally reversed the tweeter polarity and added a 6uF cap in series (connected to the black wire, at the tweeter) effectively making the tweeter cap 3uF. This was easier than tearing into the speakers again to replace the 6uF. Later he mentioned using a 5uF tweeter cap with no polarity reversal so... let's see what his current advice is.

-Kent

These tweaks are pretty subtle and basically fall into the category of preference.  If using original pots, the original 6uf cap is a good starting point. If using the L-pads (without parallel resistor) lower values between 3uf and 5uf may be preferable, as L-pads result in more output. The variable condition of the original tweeter makes it difficult to know which values actually produce a "technically correct" response...and the addition of the parallel coil brings optimal polarity into the mix as well. I prefer the .05mh coil, 5uf cap, L-pads/no resistor, and like-polarity.

If more tweeter output is desired, increase the cap value a bit and/or reverse the polarity. If less tweeter output is desired, decrease the cap value a bit. Personal preferences and listening space variables easily supersede these tweaks, and the level controls can compensate for minor differences. I've always felt the HiVi tweeter/coil arrangement puts it in the ballpark of the original sound, but there is room for small adjustments as desired. Those who prefer the very reticent nature of the original tweeter may be more likely to prefer a 3uf cap value, achieved by placing a 6uf cap in series with the original crossover's 6uf cap as described above by Kent. This method makes it easier to go back to the original value if desired.

Although it is prudent to place a spacer between the coil and the back of the HiVi tweeter, it's not critical. The Q1R magnet is shielded and any effect is tiny. (Larry/"Vintage AR" does not use a spacer.)

Roy

[JKent]

So you're fine Lou. Told ya Roy would clarify things.

Kent

[LouB]

6 hours ago, RoyC said:

Personal preferences and listening space variables easily supersede these tweaks, and the level controls can compensate for minor differences. I've always felt the HiVi tweeter/coil arrangement puts it in the ballpark of the original sound, but there is room for small adjustments as desired.

Ok, so my old ears seem to prefer a bit more in your face high end these days to compensate for their declining response.

That being said, the pots are the original but cleaned up Aetna- pollock, I did glue the 1/4” spacer in and have yet to add any capacitance in series. This leaves the question of phase.

I’ll try both and see how they sound.

thanks!

 

Lou

[LouB]

Stock capacitance, polarity reversed, mid value on pot ( white dot-ish ) seems to be most pleasing.

When I called the Bride in to the workroom to render judgement, she listened for a few minutes and proclaimed that I finally got this pair right. 

Final approval remains to be granted on the pair of 2a which I have been playing with recently though.

Thanks all, for the pearls of wisdom offered on this endeavor.

 

Lou

[LouB]

After the last couple evenings of listening to mixed program material, I am quite pleased with the sound of these tweets.

I do find it frustrating that my hearing is declining, specifically in the right ear. The sine wave test into the 2ax’s shows that the left still hears up to about 14 kcps and the right is dead to anything above 9 kcps. 

A couple weeks back at the CSO, hearing Haydn, Bartok, Bach and Beethoven I came to the conclusion that the orchestra was muffled and needed a bit of EQ tweaking. 

I’m sure it’s not my ears.