dls123 Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 HiAm considering my options for rebuilding the x-overs for my newly acquired pair of AR3a "improved" speakers. All drivers are functioning well and woofers have been recently re-foamed very nicely. I have read extensively here and on vintage asylum regarding cap choices, etc... and I can make those decisions. The schematic of the x-over is attached (from this site - THanks!). So I have played with the speakers and it is apparent that switch setting A is far too bright in my system. B is pretty good, just a tad bit nasal. I fully realize that my crossovers are not functioning well and these preferences might change. It has been suggested to bypass the switch and just hook up "B" with new parts. It has also been suggested that I put a pot in the midrange circuit - I assume where the 10 ohm resistor is. I am open to opinion on this. Perhaps it would let me make them sound a bit darker. They are hooked up to a completely rebuilt Citation I preamp driving a completely rebuilt Citation V - using all of Jim McShane's upgrade kits. I have listened to a number of speakers with this system and it is warm and detailed with all others. Any suggestions or opinions are welcomed!thanks,don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KlausDK Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 Any suggestions or opinions are welcomed!Hi DonNot realising exactly what your question is, I would suggest that you start with replacing the caps to new film caps (and maybe also the resistors to induction free types) and then take a listen again, before you start to make changes to the cross-over. Maybe new caps would remove the "nasal" sound from the B setting.BRgds Klaus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dls123 Posted September 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 Hi DonNot realising exactly what your question is, I would suggest that you start with replacing the caps to new film caps (and maybe also the resistors to induction free types) and then take a listen again, before you start to make changes to the cross-over. Maybe new caps would remove the "nasal" sound from the B setting.BRgds KlausYes, that seems reasonable. The thing I don't like about pots is that unless they are stepped attenuators it would be hard to make both channels equal except to tune by ear. Now I just need to figure out whether to use NPE's for the big 150 uF cap. Polys that big are $30 each, NPE's are pocket change. The smaller ones are inexpensive enough to use good decent polys like Solens.cheers,Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KlausDK Posted September 26, 2008 Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 Now I just need to figure out whether to use NPE's for the big 150 uF cap. Polys that big are $30 each, NPE's are pocket change. The smaller ones are inexpensive enough to use good decent polys like Solens.Hi DonI wouldn't worry too much about replacing the 150 uF with a film capacitor, an Electrolytic cap will do fine here, but film caps will last longer.BRgds Klaus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onplane Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 Don,One thing you might consider is splitting the xover to allow for passive bi-amping. Since you already have a custom xover, why not provide for the ultimate in flexibility.The drawing attached shows how you would split the networks. Notice that the entire process is reversible by simply adding jumpers (dashed blue lines) between the original and the new speaker posts.There are numerous benefits to having two amps power these speakers. One in particular should interest you. Specifically, with two amps you can alter the balance of power going to each half via the volume controls on the amps. To a certain extent, this makes the switches and pots on the speakers somewhat superfluous.Regards,Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnieo Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 Don,One thing you might consider is splitting the xover to allow for passive bi-amping. Since you already have a custom xover, why not provide for the ultimate in flexibility.The drawing attached shows how you would split the networks. Notice that the entire process is reversible by simply adding jumpers (dashed blue lines) between the original and the new speaker posts.Regards,JerryFor the Nth time, would you PLEASE post discussion of biamping speakers not designed by AR to be biamped to the mods and tweaks section. I did not invest the time making that drawing to have it so modified. Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onplane Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 For the Nth time, would you PLEASE post discussion of biamping speakers not designed by AR to be biamped to the mods and tweaks section. I did not invest the time making that drawing to have it so modified. Cheers,John, you are correct. This entire thread is about non-standard, revised, and improved xovers and should be moved to the tweats and mods section.Clearly, your "improved xover" is a tweat that doesn't belong in this section. Regards,Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genek Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 John, you are correct. This entire thread is about non-standard, revised, and improved xovers and should be moved to the tweats and mods section.Clearly, your "improved xover" is a tweat that doesn't belong in this section.The OP asked about options for the "AR-3a Improved" model speaker, not about improving AR-3a's. Klaus suggested recapping with original stock values before considering any mods, and the conversation was proceeding along those lines before your biamping post. The thread seemed well within "classic" bounds until then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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