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Found 11 results

  1. Dear Friends, I've been doing a lot of research about a pair of speakers I got from mom, a pair of Rectilinear Research XIb. While doing so I stumbled upon Mr. Kent Xla restoration project on this forum's section and I thought it would be useful to ask about my speakers as well. While inspecting my set, after removing the front grille I realized that the tweeters were replaced with a pair of Philips AD 0160 T8 Mylar dome super tweeters. I was shocked to say the least. My purpose here is to find a proper replacement for these speakers and restore them to the original factory settings. I still have the original documents of the speakers, Warranty cards from Rectilinear and product guide, but I couldn't find the exact part number and manufacturer of the tweeters. However, I was able to recover information about the technical specs of the drivers as follows: Original replacement part name: T-II (used only on XIa and XIb) 3.5" paper cone tweeter 8 Ohm impedance ferrite driver Large 0,5625 inches voice coil Approx. weight 0.5 Kg Range from 2000 Hz to 20,000 Hz Crossover Filter Frequency: 2000 Hz Total flux density: 11,000 gauss or better What I cannot be sure about is if it's supposed do be made by Peerless, and if its power absorption should be 40W or 50W. Would you mind me to ask you, from your experience, what could be the best replacement for the tweeters or point me towards a good place to look for it? I think I found something that matches the right characteristics, but I can't be sure about that or how do they sound compared to the originals, that would be the Goldwood GT-25, 3.5" paper cone tweeter ( https://www.goldwood.com/goldwood-sound-gt-25-black-3-5-kapton-tweeter-80-watt-8ohm-replacement-tweeter/ ). Of course my first pick would be to find the original tweeters, leaving the Goldwood options only as last resource. Another technical question: The XIb is supposed to be a bass reflex design, as you can see there is still the original wool material inside the bass conduct, but I am not sure that is the right placement, should it be pushed far back in the cabinet to allow a better air flow? Really hope you could help with this project, all the bests! Cheers, Jacob
  2. Has anyone solved this problem on how to reinforce a cracked tweeter flange. Iso had this problem in 2014 (see yellow highlights below) but the thread died. I seem to recall seeing another thread with images about this topic but manual and google searches do not yield a result. Can anyone here point me to the thread or have a convenient solution to a cracked tweeter flange? Edit: This could be done with 3d printing. Has anyone ventured into additive manufacturing of AR spare parts? Adams
  3. Picked up AR3 pair today. All looks good but one tweeter has "popped" its suspension. I'm either going to get it repaired or find a replacement. Looking for a genuine original so I can keep it a true AR3. If anyone has one they'd like to sell for a reasonable price, get back to me. Thanks.
  4. So, I am in the middle of a AR 3a refurb but came into a mixed pair of AR 2ax/2a. If I successfully ID'd, one is a 2ax and the other is a 2a. The 2a has the dual cone mids and the 2ax has the single yellow-foam-caged mid. I successfully brought the 2ax back to life. Although I have done many of my own surround repairs, these Alnico woofers had clothand so had them done by Bill LeGall of MillerSound (highly recommended). Beautiful work. BTW, the "finished" repair has the mid that is mounted on a small removable plywood panel but the back labels are torn off where the model numbers would normally be located. S/N D 38357. The reason I believe it was originally a 2ax is that the grill frame does not have three holes like a 2a has, but only two (one rectangular and the other round). The 2a, or so I believe based on the dual cone mid and the three hole grill frame AND the label on the back (duh) needs more work. The mid complex is dead. Can't get anything out. And, I believe it might behoove me to upgrade that to a 2ax via the mid to get a "matching" pair. From my research, the AR 2ax midrange driver is the same driver used as a tweeter in the AR 4x. Is this correct? I ask because I also have a pair of 4x that need some love. Trying to confirm before making $100 purchases. Thanks for any/all assistance. Respectfully, Dana
  5. I looked at a pair of all original AR9’s for sale. Of course they need refoaming but the main concern is NO SOUND from either high tweeter. (meaning the high tweeter on each speaker is not sounding) The speakers have had 2 mature owners and reportedly have not been abused (and show no signs of it). Is this more likely to be the tweeter itself or the attenuation switch? The switches for the low mids and the mid range dome function properly. This would not be a result of missing jumpers on the back panel speaker wire connections could it. (the jumpers were in place but possibly may not have been making contact- but I’m thinking since the low mid and the mid dome were working that all circuits were getting a signal) I was unable to do any diagnostics at the sellers house and an agreed price could not be settled on so I passed on them. Looks like used tweeters run about 100.00 each give or take. Did not find any used attenuation switches for sale. I would rate cabinet (1 chip) and grill (some light pilling) condition a 7 or 8 out of 10. Opinions on likely culprit? What is a fair price to pay for these in this state? Thanks!
  6. I just received a pair of AR15's and one of the tweeter's are out. I tested, etc. It is 200024 and I am hoping someone can point me somewhere to get a replacement. Thank you.
  7. Recent purchase of a pair of AR-15's and one of the tweeters (200024) is out. I am looking for a working replacement. Thank you.
  8. I just received a pair of AR15's and one of the tweeter's are out. I tested, etc. It is 200024 and I am hoping someone can point me somewhere to get a replacement. Thank you.
  9. Hi! I am new to this forum and those great loudspeakers from AR. I have a pair of ar3a improved with one bad tweeter. I would like to replace the AR tweeters with new ones. The most common recommendation at this forum is the HIVI tweeter. Maybe I would like something more refined. I saw one thread where one member had used the SEAS Excel T25CF-001. Have somebody else used this tweeter? Is this a good choice? Does it need modifications? Thanks for answers! Jesper
  10. I have started a new thread in the "Mods, Tweaks and Upgrades" forum. The main subject is phenolic ring tweeters. Two 8 ohm versions are currently available. Test results are provided along with suggested crossovers that provide smooth integration of these PRT with original AR4x woofer. http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showtopic=7561
  11. I have a beautiful pair of AR 2a that look like they just came out of their original boxes. They are all original, as far as I know. There are 2 problems with each speaker which I'd like to fix so that the speakers become (nearly) perfect: 1) Tweeter output is very soft, which I assume is due to dirty pots, and 2) There are a few tiny, 1/4" tears in the delicate midrange cones which I'd like to repair even though the tears are not audible. Inside, I expected to see the common, black & white Aetna-Pollak pots, but these are very different: they're much larger in diameter, they appear to be all-metal, they're perfectly quiet and rotate with a feel as smooth as silk, making me wonder if they're dirty at all. They're labled "Violet B150 AT4011", and appear to be original, although I've never seen this different type of pot before. Rotating them does not alter tweeter output level at all, making me think they're dirty, but they sure feel smooth and not dirty or corroded. They are not as easily removed as the A-P pots, in fact, it is not obvious at all how to remove them as they are firmly seated even with the rear, outside nut removed. They seem to be glued in place, though no glue is obvious. The midrange pots work fine and are perfectly quiet. Are these pots likely to be the culprit given that they are different from the A-Ps and appear to be of much higher quality? If so, what's the best way to remove them? Then, I'd like to use some kind of flexible coating on the midrange paper to seal the little tears from the outside. Would the red Permatex gasket compound work? Getting to the inside, behind the cones, is a bit of a problem due to both a) very short midrange wires and lots of fiberglass stuffing inside the midranges so patching the cones from the rear is not too likely. Your comments & suggestions are appreciated.
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