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Found 10 results

  1. I just picked up a pair of AR-5's in good shape but one needed a woofer. I had a spare AR-2ax replacement (foam surround) so thought this was perfect, as they both use a 10" woofer. From the magnet side the two woofers are identical. Well, I should have done some measuring as the frame around the 2ax is wider. The 5 is 10" and the 2ax is 11". Does it make sense to mount anyway and fill any gaps with Mortite to ensure a tight seal. The woofer won't be recessed but there's still clearance between the woofer surround and grill. Attached is a picture with a rough install. Thanks, -Steve
  2. If speakers can’t resolve differences in cartridges, then just how much “music” are you getting from your speakers? If the AR-2ax speakers present a Shure M44C (1964) the same as a Shure V15V-MR (1983), then there is a tragic loss of detail. Or an Empire 108 (1959) the same as an Empire EDR.9 (1980), there is something very amiss. Music? I can get that over my iPhone.
  3. Anyone know why AR chose to put fiberglass padding over the paper cone midrange? Is the reason documented anywhere?
  4. I am not sure anyone here has an answer for you. Modifying your 2axs to sound like your Polks will not be considered an achievement on this site. You could use a 15 band equalizer and nearly accomplish the same thing.
  5. My wife and I auditioned the new dome midrange driver last night. I won’t go into driver/fit detail here, as it’s not appropriate. I left one speaker as-is, the other with the new midrange. Set my integrated amp to “mono” so I was sending an identical signal to both speakers, side by side. The new dome didn’t change the sound “character”. But it sure did add the detail I was missing! SPL was dead on, and the crossover point was dead on with the original. Pot worked perfectly. Seamless with both the woofer and tweeter. Detail can’t be changed with an EQ; only relative SPLs can be altered. This dome has wide and smooth off-axis dispersion, and resolves massed strings and horns extremely well. The cone mid muffles those very articulate, delicate details. I’ll start a new thread in the mods and tweaks section. Doing a search, I see loads of info on replacing the tweeters in these and in 3/3a with new HiVi units. Seems to be accepted as a non-tweak. I see nothing about replacing these little paper midranges in the 2ax, and 4a/ax. So I think I can add some value to the discussion. In a side by side comparison of the dome to the original paper cone mid, I could hear *why* AR put the fiberglass damping pad over the paper mid. And I can now see/hear why the 3a is heralded for its better mids using the AR dome mid. I will venture that this tweak/mod will bring the 2ax even closer to the 3a.
  6. Hi, I know i'm not the first one having a problem about 2ax sounding "muddy" or "muffled" but i'm wondering what would be the best option about replacing the original tweeters? So far I have already changed the caps, refoamed the woofers and changed the pots, thanks jkent. I also tested the tweeters connecting one tweeter straight to the amp and there was sound but it was really quiet. The tweeter rebuild service is in USA and also Vintage Ar replacement tweeters are there and i'm living in Finland so I think it would be too expensive with all the shipping costs and taxes. How about that HiVi Q1R Dome tweeter, some people have used it I think? It would be at least a lot cheaper option, does it need any changes to the frame or any changes to the crossover? Heres couple of photos:
  7. For many years—perhaps from the very beginning—AR had a difficult time selling their products in typical audio salon showrooms. In fact, from 1954 until around 1974, AR made no attempt to cultivate good dealer relationships. Nevertheless, and despite the lack of dealer success, AR outsold nearly every other speaker manufacturer worldwide for many years without a strong, formal dealer network. How was this possible? AR products traditionally had the highest ratings and best reviews, but a prospective speaker buyer would never know it to visit the typical, small hi-fi showroom where one usually encountered a negative vibe in a showroom when an AR speaker was being demonstrated. Many times, dealers would "doctor" the speaker, reverse the polarity, turn-down the level controls or place the speaker inappropriately or disadvantageously for good A-B demos with competing products. Some dealers felt that customers would enter a store, make a decision to buy an AR product and simply go out and order it from the Allied Radio or Lafayette catalogs. Was it due to.... 1. Low dealer profit margins? 2. Lack of dealer salesman "spiffs" paid by AR? 3. Lack of dealer promotionals? 4. Lack of dealer co-op advertising? 5. AR's lack of "hand-holding" and blasé attitude towards dealers? 6. AR's traditional laissez-faire method of doing business? 7. Other reasons? Give examples of experiences you've had in dealer showrooms where AR speakers were intentionally maligned, "bad-mouthed" or "doctored" in order for a dealer to steer an unsuspecting customer to another product. —Tom Tyson
  8. Hello All, I've been collecting/repairing receivers and turntables for a little while, and now moving to speakers I find myself here. I picked up a pair of AR-2ax's and am interested in getting the cabinets in better shape. They don't need to be perfect and am happy with a bit of original character. The finish is currently quite dull and dark. Also I'm no woodworking expert but it looks like these have possibly had a staining attempt. I've looked at other AR's and don't see much of this colour. Attached are pictures of the top, sides, bottom and back. I did a light sand of the bottom with 120 and 220 grit to see what would happen. It is the worst area for scratches as usual. I'm thinking a light sand all around, but then the next step I'm unsure about. I have used the Howard's products (Restor-a-finish, Orange Oil, Feed n Wax) in the past. I also see a number suggesting Watco Danish Oil which I can get. I wouldn't mind the finish a bit lighter as it's quite dark. I also need more lustre. I've sprayed lacquer on turntable plinths but don't think I want to go that route here is possible. Any thoughts are welcome. Thanks, -Steve
  9. Two vintage AR-2ax speakers looking for a good home. Bought new, used gently for many years. Moved twice with care. Never modified or messed with. Excellent sound. Some scratches and nicks on cabinets as befits their age but no serious damage. Serial numbers AX-17320 and AX-17896. Local p/u only Boston area $200 or best offer.
  10. Hello. About 8 months ago I picked up a pair of early '70's AR-2AX speakers. They still had the original midrange drivers, woofers, capacitors and pots installed and a pair of replacement HiVi Q1R 1 tweeters. I replaced the capacitors and pots in December with Dayton Audio PMPC-4.0uF 250 V caps for the midrange and DMPC-5.6uF 250V and PMPC-0.47uF 250V soldered together for the high range drivers. Last month I decided to upgrade from the HiVi Q1R 1 a to pair of Peerless tweeters (https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-1676--peerless-da25tx00-08-spec-sheet.pdf). After 40+ hours I began to notice what I will describe as a buzzing sound in the middle frequencies. Yesterday I called and spoke to a tech person who, although unfamiliar with the AR's, made an educated guess that there was an issue with capacitors. Does anyone have a clue as to why this is happening? Thank you.
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